California SMOG Nightmare, No DTCs
I was able to get rid of all codes, but COMPONENTS and EVAP Monitors are still Incomplete
I followed drive cycles mentioned here ( page 7 ) http://www.jag.co.jp/test_tool/jagua..._OBD_II_R4.pdf
EVAP is OK as per California law but COMPONENTS needs to be complete
Any suggestions/advice's are highly appreciated
I am 1 step closer from loosing my car because of this
I followed drive cycles mentioned here ( page 7 ) http://www.jag.co.jp/test_tool/jagua..._OBD_II_R4.pdf
EVAP is OK as per California law but COMPONENTS needs to be complete
Any suggestions/advice's are highly appreciated
I am 1 step closer from loosing my car because of this
I read thru the reference you listed but without the WDS dealer computer it would probably not work.
Attached is a copy of the general Jaguar drive cycle to meet the EPA requirements. Give it a try and see if you can get a P1000 reading on the OBD scan.
Attached is a copy of the general Jaguar drive cycle to meet the EPA requirements. Give it a try and see if you can get a P1000 reading on the OBD scan.
@avern1
Thanks for quick reply, I am sorry for confusion
I can see P1000 but there is no malfunction code
My Question :
If I can see P1000 but COMPONENT and EVAP monitors are always incomplete
Does that mean, can has some issue ??
Really appreciate help from this forum
Thanks
Hardy
Thanks for quick reply, I am sorry for confusion
I can see P1000 but there is no malfunction code
My Question :
If I can see P1000 but COMPONENT and EVAP monitors are always incomplete
Does that mean, can has some issue ??
Really appreciate help from this forum
Thanks
Hardy
hardy, I know this is going to sound silly, but fill up the car to a half tank of fuel. Some of the codes require the fuel tank to be within a certain range. You can go as high as 3/4 of a tank and as low as 1/4 of a tank and still get all the functions to pass.
After that, i would try disconnecting the battery, leaving it disconnected for say 5 minutes (let any residual power be drained from capacitors in equipment or the like) and then reconnecting the battery. From there, go out for a drive in suburbia (lots of different speeds) for say a 15 mile drive. That should meet all the needs of the computer. I would also have a code reader connected up the whole time. That way you can see if you have the P1111 code before you turn off the car. If when you turn it on for the second time you don't have the P1111 code, then that tells me you have a problem with the ECU and it maintaining its constant 12VDC supply (ie, every time you turn off the car, it looses all of the checks it has done and will initially throw up a P1000 code saying it needs to do all the checks at the next start).
After that, i would try disconnecting the battery, leaving it disconnected for say 5 minutes (let any residual power be drained from capacitors in equipment or the like) and then reconnecting the battery. From there, go out for a drive in suburbia (lots of different speeds) for say a 15 mile drive. That should meet all the needs of the computer. I would also have a code reader connected up the whole time. That way you can see if you have the P1111 code before you turn off the car. If when you turn it on for the second time you don't have the P1111 code, then that tells me you have a problem with the ECU and it maintaining its constant 12VDC supply (ie, every time you turn off the car, it looses all of the checks it has done and will initially throw up a P1000 code saying it needs to do all the checks at the next start).
@ Thermo
Thats excellent advice, l overlooked these instruction but they always talk about tank level which you mentioned, i ll try this on weekend
@JagV8
car was not in good shape from a while, i do not use it much
but I decided to fix it before SMOG I replaced upstream O2 senson, ECT, Thermostat and adjusted gear shifting cable to eliminate corresponding codes
Now i have no DTCs but still cant get these monitors ready
Thanks
hardy
Thats excellent advice, l overlooked these instruction but they always talk about tank level which you mentioned, i ll try this on weekend
@JagV8
car was not in good shape from a while, i do not use it much
but I decided to fix it before SMOG I replaced upstream O2 senson, ECT, Thermostat and adjusted gear shifting cable to eliminate corresponding codes
Now i have no DTCs but still cant get these monitors ready
Thanks
hardy
Just replacing those would not change P1111 to P1000 so I guess you cleared the codes instead of letting them auto-clear?
Hope EVAP can be set...
Hope EVAP can be set...
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Yes Sir !!!
I was trying to fool smog station guy but looks like I fooled myself
Are these monitors independent of each other ?
Can I get COMPONENTS ready without EVAP and vice-versa ?
May be dumb questions, just trying to learn more about this
Thanks
Hardy
I was trying to fool smog station guy but looks like I fooled myself
Are these monitors independent of each other ?
Can I get COMPONENTS ready without EVAP and vice-versa ?
May be dumb questions, just trying to learn more about this
Thanks
Hardy
It may come down to the codes you used to have. Imagine one or more is trying to flag but cannot because the monitor(s) is/are unset. You can get Catch-22.
Sometimes you get a pending code but often an unset monitor means the car does not know what code(s) to try to flag.
The things that were wrong / the work done / the things disturbed often are a clue to the problem now.
Sometimes you get a pending code but often an unset monitor means the car does not know what code(s) to try to flag.
The things that were wrong / the work done / the things disturbed often are a clue to the problem now.








