Changed pads and having continued issues, HELP
Changed pads and having continued issues, HELP
I change the front pads. Went to hit the brakes and went all the way to the floor and made a weird sound. Look under the hood, the fluid had blown through the cap. I found the following in the forums for the brake booster...
Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Have an assistant press the brake pedal, or jam a 2 x 4 or something against the driver's seat to hold the brake pedal so it is fully depressed. In the middle of the brake booster where the master cylinder normally would be you will see an actuator/rod/stem. The end of that stem has a bolt with a 7mm hex that threads in and out to adjust the length. Through careful measurement or trial and error turn the end of the stem with a 7mm socket while holding the female threaded end with pliers so you aren't just spinning the whole thing around. Righty tighty shortens the rod length. Assuming standard metric thread (I have not measured or confirmed this, just a guess) 1 complete turn of the stem end should shorten the thing by about a millimeter.
This appeared to work. However, I had to take the master cylinder off, and the fluid all came out. I re installed the master cylinder and bled the master cylinder as well. Then I proceeded and bled all breaks starting with the rear passenger, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Pedal seemed nice and hard and I thought was going to work well. So I started the car and the break goes all the way to the floor. I was thinking that there may be air in the system still. Do I have to lead the ABS as well, and if so how do I do that? I'm kind of stuck here in would appreciate any help. I'm told that is a common problem for the brake booster to do that after changing pads.
My question is, how do I get the breaks to be normal in not spongy or go all the way to the floor? Should I Bleed then again? There was straight brake fluid and know air coming out. I did use The gravity method to bleed the brakes and use a kit to Bleed the master cylinder. Anyhow to be appreciated thank you!!
______________
2003 X-TYPE 2.5 (added by GGG)
Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Have an assistant press the brake pedal, or jam a 2 x 4 or something against the driver's seat to hold the brake pedal so it is fully depressed. In the middle of the brake booster where the master cylinder normally would be you will see an actuator/rod/stem. The end of that stem has a bolt with a 7mm hex that threads in and out to adjust the length. Through careful measurement or trial and error turn the end of the stem with a 7mm socket while holding the female threaded end with pliers so you aren't just spinning the whole thing around. Righty tighty shortens the rod length. Assuming standard metric thread (I have not measured or confirmed this, just a guess) 1 complete turn of the stem end should shorten the thing by about a millimeter.
This appeared to work. However, I had to take the master cylinder off, and the fluid all came out. I re installed the master cylinder and bled the master cylinder as well. Then I proceeded and bled all breaks starting with the rear passenger, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Pedal seemed nice and hard and I thought was going to work well. So I started the car and the break goes all the way to the floor. I was thinking that there may be air in the system still. Do I have to lead the ABS as well, and if so how do I do that? I'm kind of stuck here in would appreciate any help. I'm told that is a common problem for the brake booster to do that after changing pads.
My question is, how do I get the breaks to be normal in not spongy or go all the way to the floor? Should I Bleed then again? There was straight brake fluid and know air coming out. I did use The gravity method to bleed the brakes and use a kit to Bleed the master cylinder. Anyhow to be appreciated thank you!!
______________
2003 X-TYPE 2.5 (added by GGG)
Last edited by GGG; Feb 17, 2020 at 02:39 AM. Reason: Ad Model & Year details
Update..
I change the front pads. Went to hit the brakes and went all the way to the floor and made a weird sound. Look under the hood, the fluid had blown through the cap. I found the following in the forums for the brake booster...
Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Have an assistant press the brake pedal, or jam a 2 x 4 or something against the driver's seat to hold the brake pedal so it is fully depressed. In the middle of the brake booster where the master cylinder normally would be you will see an actuator/rod/stem. The end of that stem has a bolt with a 7mm hex that threads in and out to adjust the length. Through careful measurement or trial and error turn the end of the stem with a 7mm socket while holding the female threaded end with pliers so you aren't just spinning the whole thing around. Righty tighty shortens the rod length. Assuming standard metric thread (I have not measured or confirmed this, just a guess) 1 complete turn of the stem end should shorten the thing by about a millimeter.
This appeared to work. However, I had to take the master cylinder off, and the fluid all came out. I re installed the master cylinder and bled the master cylinder as well. Then I proceeded and bled all breaks starting with the rear passenger, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Pedal seemed nice and hard and I thought was going to work well. So I started the car and the break goes all the way to the floor. I was thinking that there may be air in the system still. Do I have to lead the ABS as well, and if so how do I do that? I'm kind of stuck here in would appreciate any help. I'm told that is a common problem for the brake booster to do that after changing pads.
My question is, how do I get the breaks to be normal in not spongy or go all the way to the floor? Should I Bleed then again? There was straight brake fluid and know air coming out. I did use The gravity method to bleed the brakes and use a kit to Bleed the master cylinder. Anyhow to be appreciated thank you!!
______________
2003 X-TYPE 2.5 (added by GGG)
Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Have an assistant press the brake pedal, or jam a 2 x 4 or something against the driver's seat to hold the brake pedal so it is fully depressed. In the middle of the brake booster where the master cylinder normally would be you will see an actuator/rod/stem. The end of that stem has a bolt with a 7mm hex that threads in and out to adjust the length. Through careful measurement or trial and error turn the end of the stem with a 7mm socket while holding the female threaded end with pliers so you aren't just spinning the whole thing around. Righty tighty shortens the rod length. Assuming standard metric thread (I have not measured or confirmed this, just a guess) 1 complete turn of the stem end should shorten the thing by about a millimeter.
This appeared to work. However, I had to take the master cylinder off, and the fluid all came out. I re installed the master cylinder and bled the master cylinder as well. Then I proceeded and bled all breaks starting with the rear passenger, driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Pedal seemed nice and hard and I thought was going to work well. So I started the car and the break goes all the way to the floor. I was thinking that there may be air in the system still. Do I have to lead the ABS as well, and if so how do I do that? I'm kind of stuck here in would appreciate any help. I'm told that is a common problem for the brake booster to do that after changing pads.
My question is, how do I get the breaks to be normal in not spongy or go all the way to the floor? Should I Bleed then again? There was straight brake fluid and know air coming out. I did use The gravity method to bleed the brakes and use a kit to Bleed the master cylinder. Anyhow to be appreciated thank you!!
______________
2003 X-TYPE 2.5 (added by GGG)
I bled the brakes again. Got a lil air out of the rear driver and front driver side. Got brakes a little bit better. Its drivable now. However there still not perfect. ABS light is on and the abs kicks in every time you try to brake a lil harder. Any ideas???? It would be much appreciated!
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 794
From: Utah
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,768
Likes: 794
From: Utah
Once you bleed the master cylinder (if you did indeed read the entire post), you then bleed each wheel until no air.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
Last edited by Dell Gailey; Feb 17, 2020 at 11:50 PM.
Once you bleed the master cylinder (if you did indeed read the entire post), you then bleed each wheel until no air.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeding-204673/
Trending Topics
The brake fluid cap is severely cracked. It blew up when this first happened. Ordered a new one. Could that cause them to be spongy still??
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joeleerj
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
6
Nov 27, 2016 06:37 PM
bwbowers
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
6
Feb 9, 2014 09:44 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)