Good news, for me at least.

Fluid seemed to be at a good level in the transfer case and the diff case and not burned or dirty. Looked older than the new stuff, obviously, but not bad for 77K miles.

The transfer case plastic cover was broke and missing. Gotta get a new one of those.

Whoever tightened the engine oil drain plug really put some muscle into tightening that.

So turns out my '03 x-type is doing fine but it gave me some peace of mind to check. Also got a good look at the undercarriage, no rust I could find. Lot easier to do all this with the car on a lift!

Got the oil pan leak, haven't decided how I'm going to approach that problem.

 

How did you change and fill transfer case?
Thanks

 

Basically followed the step here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...er+case+change

Used a check valve which I ordered from a place in the Midwest (don't remember who now and I lost the emails in a hard drive failure).

WildBill sells a kit now with the tools and parts you need:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...er+case+change

 

Thanks

 

Just found a book mark for the check valve manufacturer I used:
http://www.checkall.com/orderinformation.htm

 

boz86, what was the fill level -- 400mL?

 

Did you get the type "BU" bushing valve? Brass body? Stainless steel? Were you actually able to buy just one valve from these guys?

Mark

 

Wild Bill makes a kit that makes this job incredibly easy to do. I have it and have posted some pictures of it. Costs about $110 but worth it especially if you plan to change the fluid often. I think it is very important to measure how much fluid comes out and subtract that from the capacity which I believe is 600ml and then refill accordingly.

 

I got the stainless steel body "BU" bushing valve. And they let me order just one. I selected a high temp seat material application, had one of the staff call because the particular stuff I selected was normally a steam application. He set me up with a seat material resistant to oil.

My receipt says:
BUDCSVT.500SS
BU-050x0375-c-v-1/2

You still need to go to the hardware store after getting the valve and fabricate something with a 90 degree bend to connect the pump tubing to the check valve. I had no problem pushing the pump against the 1.5 psi valve I ordered. I did put a plug in the valve after finishing so I'm not dependent on the valve not leaking. Overkill? It's only a 50 cent part. Cheap insurance.

It is probably a lot easier to use Wild Bill's kit. Lot less hassle and he's gotten good reviews and a good track record. I just did this as I got impatient, and then didn't change the oil right away after all. :-( Posted this as I wanted to have the option on the net for posterity in case someone comes along in a few years wondering how to do it when we may have moved on.

I also +think+ he mentioned having a magnet on his valve, which I know I didn't do.

As far as the amount goes, I used a siphon pump bought at the parts store to get the last bit out, then filled to specs (600 in the other thread?). Sorry, already dumped that number from the brain.

If you don't siphon, then the other poster's point is very valid about not adding more than you took out. Owners have had problems here with overfilling.

Edit: Sorry, combined answers from two post into one answer.

 

total fill for tc is 600 ml

 

general consensus is that if you pull the plug and let it drain, you are left with 200ml still in the case, hence the 400ml number floating around.
I wouldn't trust only adding as much as you take out. most of us have found our fill levels quite low.

 

I was typing too fast and thinking too slow. You're right, if you don't get the 200 out it makes sense to put 400 in, if you take the last 200 out put 600 in.

 

Had my mechanic do 2x flush of the transfer case fluid after racking up 93k (147k km) on mine. Followed bojangles' method. (refilled w/400mL)

Man, what a difference. Car runs like new; much quieter; much less vibration, especially when cold. I suspect that the 75W140 oil in the case was more like an SAE180W oil after 6 years of heat turning it into sludge and shavings.

Well worth the effort. I'll be doing this every couple of years now.

--Geoff
03 X-Type 2.5 Sport 147k km
06 S-Type R 46k miles

 

what brand fluid did you guys decide on. this seems to be the hardest part about the change. I almost bought the royal purple stuff today but chickened out. I have the jag fluid in mind but then again amsoil makes something compatible too and I like their stuff.

 

christo -- finding a variety of 75W140 synthetics around here was tough; I just put in Quaker State synethetic. In reviewing the limited internet literature on the Ford M2C192-A specification (to which Sta-Go appears to be the only fluid compliant to this beyond-SAE standard), it calls out a special additive involving boron:

http://auto.ihs.com/document/abstract/MQPLFBAAAAAAAAAA

When I read "superior thermal and oxidation stability functions" in that link, I interpret that as code for 'sealed for life' fluids. If you're now changing your TC fluid every 30,000 miles (rather than hoping it's sealed for life), the "oxidation stability" is likely less of an issue.

Any chemical engineers here want to do thermal performance benchmarks on M2C192-A compliant vs. SAE synthetic grade fluids? I'm curious to know how quantifiable the difference is.

--Geoff
03 X-Type 2.5 Sport
06 S-Type R

 

I purchased my refil kit from WildBill fro a little over $100 which includes the pump and hose.

You can find a check valve at McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#check-valves/=1gf263
Spring-Loaded Piston Check Valves with Bushing Design
BE SURE to check the size of the NPT. WB's are custom made.

WildBill, you may have to create an account with forum.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap...?id=1226853201

FYI: The kit WB ships comes with a hand pump, instructions, hose and SS valve. MMC sells the SS valve for $75. I personally prefer to support those in our community who take the time and effort to assist us with our problems. WB has the kit I reccommend. You can email him with a request at wbeauatyahoodotcom. Obviously insert the @ and the . in the correct locations.

 

Hi i am over in the UK
has anyone completed this in the uk and if so where didi you get the parts from ?
what did you ask for as i went to local plumbers merchant and the look at me like i had just landed

Thanks

Carl.

 

Carl,

I've shipped a couple of kits over the pond to the UK.

I'll see if either of my UK customers minds giving you their input on the kit.

Bill