2003 2.5L got an oil change on Sunday, by Tuesday I noticed smoke coming from in front of the windshield wiper fluid resevoir...took it back to oil shop to make sure everything was in place, said it was but said my water pump was broken on top, which is causing the smoking and burning smell. Vehicle not running hot, not spilling water, etc. Isn't the water pump on the drivers side? Why would it cause smoke on passenger side? Wednesday went to start it, won't start. Jumped the battery, no go. Charged the battery, states full charge...cranks for a second and dies. I need some major insight please!

 

There's too much happening to really make a diagnosis, but the first place I'd look is to make sure all the intake pieces are on properly. If the engine fires(starts) and then dies it is often a intake manifold leak. If you had inexperienced people screwing with the water pump they might not have reconnected something properly.

 

It doesn't start, it just cranks for a few seconds then the battery discharges......

 

I'd get a new battery before doing anything else. A fully charged battery should be able to crank that engine for several minutes before having any trouble at all; and if yours is going flat after a few seconds that may very well be your problem.

After that, take a very close look at the batter terminals and cables for corrosion as they tend to cause lot's of unusual electrical problems.

 

Toni, as for your smoking problem, odds are, the shop didn't wipe up their oil after doing the oil change and this will cause the oil to burn off of the exhaust pipe that runs right under the oil filter. Give the smoke a day or two and it should go away. Granted, if they didn't tighten the oil filter good enough, you may have oil perpetually dripping on to the exhaust.

Give this a try. Get into your car and turn the key to the RUN position (DO NOT!!!!! go to the start position). Wait there for 5 seconds and then try to start the car. Did it start this time. If so, then your fuel pump is starting to go or you have a very clogged fuel filter. If the car still cranks, did you hear the fuel pump run when you took the key to the RUN position. You should hear a slight whirring sound (with even a possible light thud sound) as the key is initially turned to the RUN position. No sound, another key the fuel pump most likely died. You can also try putting a litlte bit of starter fluid into the intake and seeing if it will crank then. If the motor starts momentarily, then this again confirms a fuel pump issue. If it doesn't start, then you have a spark issue.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you so much Thermo, this is making me crazy. I'll give it a shot!

 

Ok. Fuel seems to engage. Bought a new battery and nothing. Won't even crank. Suggestions?

 

Toni, when you attempt to start the car, look at the center console for the red light there. Does it turn on solid as you are starting the car? If so, your problem is more the security of the car, not something with the starting system.

Ok, now, what I need you to do is to find yourself a small piece of wire (preferably a solid wire, 16 gauge or so, then strip back the insulation about a 1/4" from each end). If you open the hood and look down under the throttlebody, you will see the starter there. You will see a large post with 2 large wires coming off of it and then a smaller post with a single wire on it. What I want you to do is to take that piece of wire and touch only the large post and the smaller post at the same time (touching the large post and any surrounding metal may result in some arcing, but all will be fine). Did the motor attempt to turn over like it normally does? If yes, then your problem lies in the starter control circuit. Let me know and I will help you from there. If the motor barely turned over and didn't turn over at all, then we will need to either take a leap of faith or you will need to get your hands on a multimeter.

If you have a multimeter, you will want to put the red lead on the battery positive and then have the black lead on that large post. Now, when attempting to start the car, what voltage does the multimeter read? if it is reading over 0.5 VDC (more than likely it will be up around 5-10 VDC), then you have a bad positive battery cable. If it is reading less than 0.5 VDC, then I want you to move the black lead over to any bare metal point on the engine. Attempt to start the car again. What did the multimeter read this time? If 0.5 VDC or less, then you are looking at a bad starter. If it was over 0.5 VDC, then you have a bad negative battery cable.

If you have a bad battery cable, it will need to be replaced. If you are not sure about using a multimeter, odds are, you have a bad battery cable and replacing both battery cables should get you back on the road. If they don't, then odds are, you are looking at a bad starter.

 

Ok replaced battery and starter. Cranking great but still won't start

 

Toni, go back and lets walk back through what I have told you to do in the past. now that the motor is turning over, we know that is not a problem now. So, we are looking at either a fuel issue, a spark issue, or a security issue. We can rule out a security issue by watching for the red light or a message on the data center. Once that is ruled out, I would say to remove the hose going to the brake booster and squirt some starting fluid down the hole that you just created, reinstall the hose, and then attempt to start the car. If the motor catches for just a second (as it will use up all the starter fluid you put in there), then we know it is a fuel issue. If it doesn't catch, then odds are we are looking at a spark issue.

Lets see what we have at that point. Too many paths at this point to try and start covering each and every one here.

 

I've done everything you said so far. It wasn't a security issue. I will take hose off in morning and do what you suggested. Again I can't thank you enough for the insight. The battery I replaced to be proactive as it was the original. The starter, when I took it in they said it wouldn't engage.

 

Where is that hose located? Also when we took the battery out which was an original jag battery, there is a hose by the positive side. What is that and do I need to punch a hole in the new battery and insert it?

 

Toni, if the new battery does not have a vent, then don't worry about that hose. Just tuck it off to the side.

As for the hose I am referring to, remove the cover off of the engine. If you look, you will see a box right in front of you that says "Jaguar" on it (your air box). Follow that around to the right a little bit and it will go from black plastic to silver metal (this transition is where your throttlebody is). Follow it around another 12 inches/30 cm or so and you will see a black plastic hose sticking out the top of the intake. Remove the hose there (push down on the hose, then hold down the plastic ring on the outside and keep holding it down, then lift up on the hose only, it should slide right out). From here, spray a little bit of starter fluid down that hold in the intake that you just created and put the hose back on.

 

Toni,
just out of curiosity check your oil level.
this all started with an oil change, we have all seen / heard of shops forgetting to tighten filters, drain plugs or even forgetting to refill with oil.

 

Ok thermo we are getting somewhere. Long story short it's the ac compressor. The pulley was frozen. Once we cut the serpentine belt car started right up. Now...do I have to replace the entire compressor or is there a work around?

 

Toni, I guess the question is whether the compressor is frozen or if the clutch to the compressor is frozen. I guess the question you need to ask is whether you can easily turn the pulley on the A/C compressor or if you have to really put some umpf behind it to turn. If the compressor is easy to turn, then simply keep the heat-A/C off in the car and it will prevent the clutch from engaging and loading the motor down. If the pulley is hard to turn, then pretty much your only option is to replace the A/C compressor.

 

Similar problem with my diesel xtype. Found to be `CAM SHAFT SENSOR`didn`t show up on diagnostics when searching `Jaguar` but did when `Ford` used. Quick to replace, easy to get to and only £30. Worth a try.
Good Luck.

 

Ok I have the ac compressor. What else needs to be replaced. I'm hearing some say the accumulator and some a receiver drier. Help this girl out please, getting fixed tomorrow god willing,

 

I have the ac condensor now. What else do I need? I'm hearing accumulator and or receiver drier. Really? Getting tired. Help! Hopefully fixed tomorrow.

 

Toni, must you. No. But, some have found that when they have a problem like you encountered, that various parts of the A/C system will become blocked. If you use some compressed air and blow it through the lines you disconnect from the compressor, you should get some decent air flow through the lines. If you find that it is severely restricted, you may end up having to replace more stuff. Otherwise, you should be golden.