Queen, it sounds like you are having a leak from the IMT valves. If you look on the side of the intake, you will notice 2 black circles bolted to the side. If you undo the 2 bolts on each circle, you can back out atleast the top one and you will see a green o-ring in there. If you replace the o-rings, it should stop your leak. Removing the lower IMT valve can mean lifting the intake some to give yourself the necessary clearance. Some report you can stretch the o-ring around the cover so you don't have to lift the intake.

Now, stand by, those o-rings are a bit on the pricy side ($15 each as I recall). But, it will take care of your hissing sound. Driving with an intake vacuum leak should not hurt your car as it will automatically add in a little more gas as it thinks the car is running a little lean. But, you may see a slight drop in your mileage.

You can use a bit of starter fluid and spray it on the junction between the IMT valve and the intake. If you hear the RPMs pick up, you have confirmed the vacuum leak location.

 

Thermo, I think you are exactly right. The IMT's would be these? (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...6&postcount=16) The hissing seems to be coming in the area of the two black circles (IMT valves as you informed me). This is the first car that I've actually tried to learn how to do things myself (yea I know, what an expensive choice to learn on...), but I checked the IMT covers and put my hand around each one as much as I could. The hissing seemed to get lower when I covered the bottom left edge of the upper valve, so I think I may have narrowed it down. As far as testing it with spray goes, can I use WD-40 as a substitute? I have a Jag dealer not far from my home so it is good to know I can drive it over there if I need to. And I can definitely afford $30 for a CEL fix! I just hope that I really found the source of it.

 

Queen, yes, those are the IMT valves. If your hubby has some black RTV, you can put a little around the upper one for the moment to seal things up. That will atleast correct it for the moment. Just be easy with the RTV as you don't want to get any near the flapper that is inside (you will see what I am talking about after you pull out the IMT valve. You will need an 8mm wrench to get the bolts loose. Pull the IMT valve straight out and it will be free of the engine after about 4". Wipe the opening with a paper towel to get rid of any carbon/dirt that has accumulated there, clean the mating surface of the IMT valve.

As for replacing the O-Ring, I am sure you can do it. I bet I could get my 5 year old grandson to replace this as it is so easy to do. The lower one is a bit more complicated. If you lived closer to me, I would tell you to come on over and I would do it for you in about 20 minutes. So, stop by the dealership, pick up the o-rings and learn some more about your car. If you need the location of all the bolts for the intake, let me know. 2 of them are hidden and are not obvious until you go to lift the intake.

 

great, I am going to stop by the dealer tomorrow after work. What exactly do I need to be lifting to change the bottom valve o-ring, the intake? is that easily moveable or is it something I need to let a mechanic do? I do see the two bolts for the bottom valve, is that all I need to undo there? I am not too nervous about changing the top one, as the looks pretty unobstructed. Thanks so much for all your help.

 

You don't have to remove the intake. Undo the bolts on the bottom IMT and pull it out. There should be an old yellow o-ring you can see. Slide it out and cut it to remove. The new o-ring should be GREEN and with the connection unattached, you should be able to just stretch it/roll it over the IMT cover and get it into place. Bolt it back up and you are done.

 

Awesome. I am going to attempt this tomorrow, will let you guys know how it goes.

 

oh my god i don't know how to thank you guys. everything that could have went right today, did. Went to the dealer, the o-rings were $2.15 each! i got 3 just in case I broke one stretching it on the lower valve. I'll detail what I did just to let future people know how easy it is. So the replacing top valve was pretty simple as you guys said, I undid the bolts and slid out the valve then cleaned it a bit. I slid off the yellow ring, it looked decent so I wasn't sure if that was the issue. Slid the green one on and replaced the valve. Restarted the car, went back to the engine and still heard the hiss so I started to doubt it this was the problem-- CEL light was also still on... So I started on the lower one, used a pliers to pick up the ring from the valve and cut it with a scissors. then unhooked the wire from the valve and streteched the ring around one end to the other and it snapped right in place. Made sure it wasn't twisted and slid it back in. Went back to start the car and immediately check for the hiss, there was none! then went back to the dash and checked the CEL light and it was gone!! I was expecting to see it still there for 5 cycles but i was so happy to see it gone. I even restarted the car a couple times to make sure I wasn't seeing anything, lol. All in all it took me about 35 minutes. Thank you so much for all your help you guys, it made my week.

 

Err....who

 

Thermo,

Please excuse my ignorance, I've had my X-Type for about two weeks now.

There should not be a hiss coming from either of the IMT valves? I noticed a hiss coming from the upper IMT valve on the same morning my CEL first illuminated.

Best Regards,
Waldo

 

Janjary,
Did you car run real badwhen you first started it in the morning? I think I may hav the same problem but I was just wondering if you were having the issues I am having now. I am ready to pull my hair find this problem any help you could give me would be great. Thanks so much

 

I want to thank Dennis B, and Mike l. For their posts! I had check engine light as well as cruise not available on. Check PVC hose ad Mike said to sure enough when I went to pull it off it fell apart like butter at the connection just left of the TB. Got a new and improved one from the dealer for 17.00 bucks and bought a code scanner at Auto Zone as Dennis black had stated. Cleared the codes took it for a ride and all us good Great info guys thanks!!