Hello! I've been problem free for some time now, but that can't last forever....... So, my problem is simple and I'm sure I know the issue but I'm reaching out for confirmation.

In short, it won't start. The dash lights go on, the dome light, etc.... and when I turn the key it clicks repeatedly, the speedo and tach jump, but it won't kick over. It acts like I have a drained battery. Which I could. But I was driving around with no problems on Saturday and it fired right up. I didn't go anywhere Sunday and then I went out this morning and nothing. I didn't leave the lights on, no dome light left on, if the doors or hood or trunk are not closed then I can't set eh alarm, and the alarm was set. There is no fault indication on the dash, no security error or red warning light, it just simply clicks repeatedly, but doesn't try and turn over.

I assume it is the battery because it seems pretty typical of a bad battery. I'm just thrown for a loop because it ran and started fine on Saturday. I guess a bad battery doesn't really give you a warning, but I thought I'd at least have some sort of voltage indicator or warning light. I'd say the battery is around 4yrs old. I'm at work, had to Uber in, so i haven't been able to "diagnose" anything or try to jump start it. Thought I'd get some feedback while I'm at work so i can be prepared when i get home and not lollygag around killing precious time.

Most likely the battery?

 

 

Thanks Gregory! I'm 99% sure it's the battery, but with these there's always the unsuspecting gremlin. Batteries are so damned expensive though...

 

ugotmale, if you have a multimeter, I would put that across the battery first. if you have all the doors shut and all things electrical off, then you should see 12.6 VDC across the battery posts. If you are down around 12.3 VDC or lower, then your battery is discharged and should be charged before going any further. With the battery up at 12.6 VDC, connect the multimeter leads from the body of the car (black lead) and the large post on the starter (red lead). You should see 12.6 VDC at this point. Now, while watching the multimeter, attempt to start the car. Does the multimeter drop to around 11.0-11.5 VDC or does it drop to around say 9 VDC? If it is around 11.something, then your starter is going/gone. if it is around 9 VDC, then you have either a bad battery or bad battery cables. This is where you can repeat the test, but move the multimeter leads to the lead part of the battery terminals. If this check results in a voltage across the battery in the 11-12ish range, then this confirms bad battery cables. If the voltage is very similar to what you saw at the starter, then that would confirm a bad battery.

if you need more help, let me know.

 

I'd do the checks for giggles, but when mine died it was the same way. Working one day, driving around, the next morning - kaput!

 

Mine died the other day too. Was fine, then just went, got lights and batt light on dash acting weird, Brake light came on, tach and speedo etc.

I charged all night thinking my Alt had gone bad (Just replaced and charged AC compressor so you can imagine how I felt to think the Alternator had gone.

Next day, Click, Click etc. Jump started it and tested the voltage, 14.2 so Goodbye Battery.

Question, Does anyone know why it needs to have such a large battery? 790 CCA. seems a bit excessive for a v6???? and it came with a nice price tag too. 150.00 at walmart...

 

As a car battery nears end of life, most cars warn you by cranking a little slower than normal. But our X-Types give no warning - one day the engine cranks with gusto, and the next day it's "click".

Here in Houston heat most batteries last 3-4 years, but only ~2 1/2 years in my X-Type. Walmart's Everstart Maxx, size H7, 790 CCA battery for $150 has a good warranty: free replacement the first 3 years, prorated in years 4 & 5. So every ~2 1/2 years when my X-Type won't start, I pull the receipt from the glovebox and Walmart replaces the battery for free under warranty. Best $150 I spent ~10 years ago!

 

Thats what happened to me but I have new battery, so the mechanic said maybe its the fuel pump. But car has only 29756 miles????

 

It isn't always only about the miles. Sometimes it is just age. You have low miles, but a 14 year old car. If you turn the key, but don't start it do you hear a slight whirr of the fuel pump? When wasw the last time your fuel filter was changed?

 

richc6, I know this is going to sound strange, but try this trick. When you get in the car, roll the ignition key to the RUN position and hold it there for a few seconds (may hear the fuel pump run and then turn off). At that point, roll the key just a little further to the START position. If the car starts then, you have a bad fuel pump. if the car will still crank and crank with no ignition, then you may have another issue and more information would be needed. If you are saying that you turn the key and the starter only ticks (no rolling of the engine), then I can guarantee that it is not your fuel pump. In that case, I would be looking at your battery cables. These are common problems with the X-Type and in your case, what I would try is to first let the car sit over night. Before attempting to start the car, open the hood and touch both battery terminals (remember how they feel temperature wise). Now, attempt to start the car and crank the car for say 10 seconds. Now, go back to the battery posts and touch them again. WARNING!!!!!! One of them may be hot, so approach cautiously. Touch each one again. You may find that one is going to be cold and the other will be at a different temp. In this case, the one that is a different temp is a bad cable and should be replaced. That is dropping the voltage to the starter and reducing the amount of force it has to roll the engine and in this case, the starter can't generate enough to roll the engine.