I have an 04 3.0L that the clutch went out on. Pulled up to stop and while stopped the clutch gave out and stalled the car.

The pedal goes down all the way but there really is no resistance until the last 1/2 inch of travel.

Looking in the bell housing I can see the slave start to move as soon as the pedal is pushed. The slave seem to move about 1/2 inch or so total, and it starts to push the pressure plate at the end of this travel but only a small amount and not enough to disengage the clutch at all.

I have no fluid leaking anywhere. The housing is dry. I bled the system and got good fluid out.

I am reading the JITS but it really doesn't cover the clutch not releasing at all. Is the travel I see on the slave right and I have a problem with the pressure plate. Or is it short and I have a bad Master?

 

Did you look to see if there is fluid leaking from the master cylinder where the rod to the pedal enters? From your description, either the master cylinder has failed or there is a mechanical problem with the clutch pressure plate or release bearing.

Begin with the obvious and look at the hydraulic circuit.

 

I did look for that. No Fluid leaking anywhere outside the system.

I am really looking to see how far the slave should travel. since I can see it move as soon as the clutch pedal is pushed. As I stated it moves but only seems to push out about 1/2 inch or so and doesnt seem to engage the pressure plate until the last 1/8 inch of travel.

Should I see the fingers of the pressure plate start to move just as the slave pushes out.

 

Unless there is a physical problem with the clutch hydraulics, the system should move the clutch release bearing sufficiently to release the pressure plate.

If there are no hydraulic leaks and the slave cylinder is correctly mounted on the gearbox, check that the rod from the slave cylinder is properly positioned to move the release bearing mechanism.

 

First of all, what did the clutch "give out"...candies or what? What happened??

If the slave cylinder moves freely then you might have a failure of the pressure plate assembly. But you really should tell people something more than "it's broken" if you want help.

 

Well my daughter was driving it not me, but by her description she pulled up to a stop sign stopped and while stopped the the car jerked and stalled. So one would think that the clutch disengaged while the pedal was down i.e. "going out" that you are not able to engage the clutch. Which is where it is at now.


NBCat, I am not sure what you mean by rod. Looking at the slave all I can see is the boot and bearing.

 

Yes, the piston is covered by the boot and there is no adjustment. The rod I referred to is not part of this assembly or design.

From your description and the miles on the vehicle, it may need to have the gearbox/transaxle removed and the clutch assembly replaced. You may want to search this forum for advice on doing the job yourself if you have the knowledge and equipment. The JTIS manual should outline the procedures and steps.

 

Yes thats what I thought. I guess I will have bite the bullet and pull it. My take was if I pull it I might as well replace the whole thing slave, plate and disc.

It's really sad that the clutchs go out at about 100K on this car. I have 250K on my honda on the factory clutch. Posted on the forums there becuase I got worried and some have posted they are above 300K on the first clutch.

 

Clutch wear, as with brake pads, is dependent on the driving style of the person(s) operating the vehicle. It can be difficult to compare items such as this across brands as a Honda vehicle may be significantly lighter and have less torque to handle through the clutch.

If you decide to go ahead with the work yourself, it would be advisable to replace the hydraulic components and any other associated seals and gaskets that are only serviceable with the gearbox/transaxle removed.

If your vehicle is an all-wheel drive model (I do not remember if an all-wheel drive model with manual gearbox was offered in North America), it would also be a good idea to replace the transfer case fluid while you have everything apart.

 

I had already planned to change the pan gasket. It leaks like a sieve. It does have a transfer case which I have already changed the oil in it when I first got the car, I was even thinking of replacing the carrier bearing too. It's still cheaper than an new automatic transmission which is why I have a manual.

 

UPDATE need more help

Ok Clutch is out of the car. The disc was toast. Now what should be the flywheel runout limit be? I have tried finding it in the JTIS but the section it points me to says nothing about the flywheel.

I have no experience with a DMF flywheel and it seems to wobble quite a bit to me.

Also if I am good on it, I read that the DMF can't or should not be resurfaced does that sound right.

 

All I know about dual mass flywheels I learned here. Especially starting with post #11. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-clutch-74430/

 

If you need it done, shoot me a pm and I will give you a couple shops in KC that will do the dual mass for you.