I see a TON of people citing codes and, being new to jag ownership, I'm wondering :
A) does everyone own a code reader?
B) is there a certain one that most people use?
C) where does it connect? (might be obvious, but I haven't looked so...asking)

Also reading a lot about water intrusion issues into the modules/connectors. Not totally sure it's applicable here as I have more reading to do, but I've often found that using WD-40 (water displacer) followed by a good dousing with an electronics grade contact cleaner, clears up any issues related to water and/or corrosion pretty reliably.

 

Welcome to the forum yardbird. These acarss are almost impossible to diagnose and repair with out a scanner to read the OBD codes. A lot of folks on here swear by the elm 327 wireless adapter (cheap on ebay and amazon) and the Torque APP (free from app store) for the i-phone and android. I use an OBDCOM II with a laptop, just my preference.
The scanner port is located under the dash board near your left knee as you are sitting behind the wheel. A look under there will reveal a rectangular connector with numerous male pins.

 

Yardbird, for around $10, the elm 327 is a good option. They often have bluetooth and wifi interfaces. Bluetooth is a less load on the phone. Installation requires mating the device with the phone and then mating the software with the device.

 

yardbird, I have a few different code readers. For the backyard mechanic, I like the Elm 327 unit as it gives you lots of features for little money. But the limitation is you only get to see the engine codes. So, this can be a little limiting when you have say an ABS light on. Because you have a 2006, you will want to get the higher end ELM 327 unit to work with your car. There are 2 different variations out there. You will need the V2.0 one, not the V1.2 or V1.3.

As for why everyone owns one, lets see: you can spend say $40 on an ELM 327 unit with all the bells and whistles and use it as many times as you would like and have the ability to look at engine parameters whenever you like, or you can go to the dealership, spend $120 (possibly more) to have them tell you that you need a $500 repair and you have to fight them to get the codes (which is why you went in there in the first place).

 

So...the elm 327 won't show other codes besides engine codes? That does seem kind of limiting. I've read here mentions of "jaguar specific" codes.....this doesn't handle them?

 

As Thermo mentioned, for newer cars and more than engines codes go with ELM 327 V2. Regarding Jaguar specific codes, the scanner will return the DTCs stored in the ECM. This forum provides a list for interpreting the codes.

 

yardbird, lets break out the codes a little bit to explain what is going on. it isn't quite as black and white as you might be thinking.

First off, DTC codes are broken up into 4 groups (P, U, C, and B). These stand for:

P: power train
C: Chassis
B: Body
U: Universal (what didn't fit into what is above)

Now, the ELM units will only read the P codes. The C, B, and U codes require a higher end reader. Some C codes will appear, but it is kinda hit and miss with what you may or may not get with any code reader.

From here out, I am going to specifically talk about P codes as this will be what you will spend most of your time dealing with. When it comes to P0XXX (where XXX is 3 numbers), these are your generic codes. These are supposed to be universal between all makes and models of cars (from audi to Ford to Chevy to VW to.....). These are kinda a carry over from the early years of the OBD II systems. But, as time has progressed, the manufacturers have expanded this list. So, you may see codes that are P1XXX or P2XXX. These are the manufacturer specific codes. These vary between the manufacturers. You may find that say Ford and Jaguar are going to be very similar due to their ties through the 2000's. But, they may not be 100% the same. But, if you look up say a P1XXX and get a listing for say a Chevy, it may be something completely wrong and not applicable to your car, potentially sending you on a wild goose chase.

If you need a list of what the various codes mean, let me know. I have a source directly from Jaguar that will cover most of what you will see. I have found that there are a few not listed from the newer cars. I would just need you to send me a PM with your e-mail address.

 

Hi Thermo, I just read your replied to Yardbird about the list of Jaguar codes, can you send me one to my email?

 

When I replaced my ABS module, ELM327 gave me C1175 error.
This was the only time I've seen error other than P on ELM, on various cars.

 

The elm327 can read all codes BUT the software generally doesn't support asking for them or displaying them.

The underlying reason is that the various car makers when not forced to do things a standard way (as OBD II forces them) each do it differently (even the module addresses are all over the place, never mind the codes and meanings), making the support software task huge. So it doesn't get done for software that's free or a few bucks.

It doesn't help that the software has to be one way for Apple, another for Windows, another for Android, and so on.

People often don't want government creating laws but OBD II really helps. It can't go further because it's restricted to emissions-related stuff. A pity.

 

Hi ALL, IF you have a jag with sat-nav and you hold the phone button and menu button down for 5 seconds you will access a hidden menu, within that menu is a self diagnostics. This will give you any codes and or the history https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qQfkKWJfiwsee this link: this for an S type but this function is on any sat-nav equipped jag. if you look on u-tube it can also be done on latter modles

 

Nice, does it really show diagnostic codes? Fortunately I don't have any fault to test

I've heard that it only checks for nav module error codes, not powertrain ones.

 

yes, it will show all the codes. Jaguar use it to do Diagnostics. If it has not been cleared it will give you a history from year dot or the last time it was cleared. You also have many other settings in the menu to set up new hardware.

 

Thang, please send me a PM with your e-mail address and I will pass on the codes to you.

 

Sadly it shows old codes, ones that have long since been fixed. I can't think of any use for those.

 

Thanks Thermo, here is my email: tcnguyen49@yahoo.com
By the way I would like to hear your opinion; After replaced the head gaskets, the engine cranked but won't start, Paul has come to my house (he live in Lititz, about 5 miles from me), after checked out the car he said the timing was messed up, so I have to disassemble the engine again, and here is the debate: Should I try to retiming the engine, change are I myth not set the timing correctly again, or should I just buy a used engine to replace it? After get it tuning I want to sale it and find a later MY of VDP or sport wagon.

 

Hi Guys,

I just got in my ELM 327 and also a used Galaxy 7" tablet (my phone is an Apple).

I ran out to the car and plugged it all in and turned the key. It found the EML 327 and came up on the "code" or password screen and I put in the number it told me. It looked fine and found the EMl 327.

I started the free Torque app. It starts fine with a few symbols blinking on the top right. They all stop blinking except for the far right one, a small car.It never hooks up.

I have tried this on a few cars and also a few different apps. Nothing hooks up.

Did I miss a set up item??

Thanks for your help.

 

Thang, if you have the time, I would check the timing. Keep in mind that there is an in and out side to the chain. So, you need to make sure that you get the correct orientation. Also, it may be possible that the chains are also unique to the side of the engine. So, again, make sure you have the correct chain in the correct location. I had to fight this when I did the engine in my truck.

It is going to be far cheaper to redo the timing with the current motor than to have to replace the motor. The only way this will not be the case is if you happen to have the valves hit something internal to the engine. Then, getting the good used engine is going to be cheaper due to the cost of parts.

 

Did you pair up your bluetooth device to the bluetooth reader. You need to do that and should be in the Torque app. as well. I use the KIWI III and the paid for Torque app and I had to pair them to each other and it works perfectly.

peace out,
daddylogan

 

Hi Larry, Did you go in to the Torque Settings screen and choose OBD2 Adapter Settings?