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Hoping for some wise advice. After about 4 hours into a long drive my 2004 2.1 litre petrol (poverty pack model, what I wouldn't give for a cruise control!) started coughing and spluttering at about 2800 rpm. Below that, it would pull fine and run well but if it changed down for a hill and the revs went over that 2800 mark it would cough and splutter and massively lose power, Back off the throttle , especially if on a flat or down hill and it would change up, the revs would drop and away we would go again. On a flat, if I gradually crept up the speed (about 130kmh at about 2800) once I got over the mark, happens again, speed drops and revs drop below the 2800 and away we would go again. It didn't seem to matter whether the engine was under load or not, happened going downhill just as easily as going up. I was able to nurse it home but it also developed a misfire, below about 2000rpm it would miss, get above about 2500 and it seemed to even out but hard to tell, NSW roads are pretty battered at the moment after the floods. Fired up Torque, got codes P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire, and P1313 and P1316 , no clear explanation from Fault log manager. I'm thinking it has to be something engine speed related, cam position sensors, maybe inlet tuning manifolds. Any ideas?
As a background, I picked it up as a rescue cat, on the side of the road for almost 12 months, made the owner an offer. Redid the interior, new battery, brakes, changed all the fluids and away we went. I didn't do anything to the engine other than a quick service, originally meant to run it for a few months to pick any bugs but love it so much I couldn't resist those long drives. It did one about 800kms up and back to country NSW and had to do it again due to family emergency.
Thanks in advance.
Hey,
The P1313 is reported misfire rate warning for potential Catalyst damage in bank 1 (firewall side of engine).
P1316 is misfire causing excessive emissions, this code is none specific and accompanies the P1313 and your P0301 if thresholds met.
Likely plug or coil pack giving you a problem.
If spark plugs are an unknown mileage, then probably pay to start there with a fresh set (usually good for 100K). They should be pre-gapped by manufacturer (around 0.052" if memory serves).
You will need to take off the intake manifold to access coil packs and spark plugs, so prepare yourself for finding a spinning brass inserts in the intermediate intake manifold plastic assembly...not uncommon when you try to release the manifold bolts.
Pick up some high temp epoxy resin as you might need to clean out and reinsert one or more of the brass inserts back into the glass reinforced plastic intermediate assembly.
Be careful of the hard vacuum lines, they put strain on the white nylon T joints and you can easily fracture or snap those joiners when removing or reinstalling the manifold even if you release the lines from the intake manifold.
When you go to remove the spark plugs you might find oil in the number 1 spark plug well, if so you might need to investigate a rocker cover gasket replacement at some stage. If you have pressure washed the engine, you might have flooded the plug well, but the long drive probably would have evaporated that away.
Tip: note the coil pack positions as you take them off and when reinstalling swap the rear bank one for cylinder 1 forward into the most convenient position in the front bank where you can get easier access to that coil if it turns out to be faulty.
If it is faulty you will still get your misfire but the code will have moved to P0302,4 or 6 instead, and you probably won't need to remove the manifold to swap it out.
Good luck with your investigation, but don't drive the car with that fault unresolved as you could be potentially poisoning the bank 1 CAT.
Yep....ECM probably putting itself into "limp home" mode.
I had that horrible effect when I had a TPS sensor playing up......no fun trying to pull away from lights and climb up a rail overpass bridge .......an 850cc split screen Morrie has more pull!
I've ordered six new coils and 6 new plugs , I'm in there anyway and the current bits are unknown so I'll replace them to be on the safe side.
You are spot on the nail, removed 2,4 and 6 this afternoon and have oil in 2 and 6.
I don't mind replacing the rocker box and spark plug well gaskets but I can't find a lot of references for the 2.1 for these bits
Do they use the same gaskets as the 2.5 and 3?
If not , any hints on where to get them?
Hi,
Thanks for the confirmation Dell. I stopped trying to look for parts from the chain stores and searched for an independent guy and found a crew called Cathouse Spares. Had them in stock, for a more than reasonable price. Took a drive and now have rocker cover and spark plug well gaskets in my hand. Just waiting on the new coils and we're away. Would have liked intakes but none left, apparently supply chain affected.
Got to hang out for a few minutes in this guys workbay, amazing stuff. 2 E types, a few XJ-R's and an s type in pieces. Had a long talk to him about my XF, gotta love it when you can talk to someone who has passion for what they do.
Thanks again everyone for your help.
Best Regards
I must have done something stupid. I pulled it all apart to change the coils and rocker cover gaskets, labelled everything and put it back together nicely with no leftover parts. Tried to start it, it turns over but not even a pop. ODB2 is giving me P0102 Volume air flow circuit low, P0112 Intake air temp circuit low, P0117 Engine coolant temp circuit low, P0122 Throttle Pos sensor low, I'm thinking I must have left a plug off somewhere or damaged the rear cable loom but I can't see anything obvious. Any suggestions?
P0112 Jaguar Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
Possible causes
– Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
– Dirty air filter
– Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted
– Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection.
p0117 code is saying that your engine coolant temp circuit is seeing too low of a resistance.
P0122 is throttle position sensor as you stated.
Unfortunately we in the U.S. don't have the 2.1 and it IS different from the 2.5 and 3.0. But with all those various codes it sounds like you pinched a wire somewhere meaning hand over hand checking to find it. Or the alternative is getting this tool to find the damaged wire(s). =
You appear to have a number of sensors that are playing up....common thread might be a Black wire with green stripe.
Might pay to check with a multimeter for continuity of that common wire that splits out in the loom and ties pin 3 of ECM plug to the TPS, ECT sensor, EOT sensor, MAF and MAP sensors.
Check each measures with low resistance back to ECM plug pin 3 (same coloured wire visits all listed sensors).
Hi,
Wasn't that fun?
Remembered that I tried to get compression figures while I had it all apart (failed because I couldn't get the tester properly seated on the smaller plug holes). All those faults, well, because all the bits were missing maybe?
Cleared with Torque but still no go.
Pulled it all apart again, traced all the wiring as above suggestions and found nothing. Put it back together again, still no joy. Pulled it all apart again (now getting good at getting that rear intake support bolt out). Only possibility was the brand new coils.
Checked all the coil resistances, half the values of the originals.
Put the originals back in but moved the dead No.1 to No. 2 at the front. Bingo, started straight away but code now misfire on No.2. Up to the local Repco, bought one coil that cost as much as the 6 coils on ebay, but it works.
Contacted the seller on ebay, gave me my money back and doesn't want them back. Not sure what to think, other than "WTF but I'll take it anyway."
So of we went on another 500km adventure. And blew a radiator hose near Queensland.
Sigh.
But at least some good news, I'm getting my XF back tomorrow. 3 months in the panel beater waiting for parts after the wife killed Skippy.
Coughing and won't pull past 3000 revs
