obviously not,

please try

 

Can't see the pic. Are you talking about the 90 degree elbow fitting coming off the top of the valve cover right beside the airbox that mates up with the pcv hose (pvc hose being about 8 to 10 inches long, about 3/4 of an inch in diameter - new ones are ribbed, older ones are smooth).

If so, I would hazard a guess that you would indeed experience the same symptoms - check engine light, erratic running as described earlier in the thread.

Believe it or not my original pcv split last week and the split was almost exactly 3 inches. Crazy.

 

get it scanned coded

 

Did anybody else LOL a bit when they read the title of this thread?

Or was it just me?

 

Not just you, I also have the mentality of a 13 year old.

I thought about it again when I was describing that hose. Ribbed, smooth, hose...jeez this is the double entendre thread all over the place.

 

Here's a link to your picture that you tried to post, for some reason you can't post Twitpics directly here.


But yea this problem happened to my car as well, it turned out the be the PCV hose & Valve along with some Vacuum Hoses that needed to be replaced and so far the Cruise Control Not Available and the jerking once increased acceleration has ceased.

 

http://twitpic.com/1owx14 What you're pointing at is the main problem

 

See Page 1 of this thread 6th post down ;-)

 

thanks for this folks,

can I get this part from a dealer in the UK?

What am I asking for specifically?

Additionally I think a moderator may have removed my original attempt at putting a picture up.

 

Nope, I had converted into thumbnail mode rather than link which is far easier to see . The images could view when you browse this page .I reckon there is something wrong your image hoster .So please repost the link so that any mod or me can do correction
Thanks

 

Yep, that would do it. It allows "free" air in the system and the computer cannot compensate to the correct air/fuel ratio.

 

I am facing a similar issue, --I drive to work from central NJ to CT its a 100 mile run and the engine starts jerking once i have driven 50 plus miles I have tried to switch to sports mode there is no change it just wont stop jurking -today I stopped for few minutes in between the jerks went away but after running 20-25 miles I could feel them back. the the engine light came up, I did a acan and it came 'P2635 Fuel Pump "A" Low Flow / Performance'

I have already replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter , but as some of you have been discussing about a hose leak... you mention there could be that one of the hoses are leaking and pulling in AIR, i don't know where to start looking could anybody please give me any assistance here

FYI
I had an issue with the hissing noise from the throttle body , I have replaced the o-rings.

 

bb - start with the PCV hose that runs from the front of the intake toward the front of the car, next to the airbox. About 8 inches long and about a 1" diameter hose, give or take. Look for a split in that hose. You have to remove the plastic engine cover if you have one.

Next take a look at the brake booster hose - it is the hard plastic one with the check valve in it running from the intake over to the brake system assembly. There is a pic in the "whats this hose" thread and you'll see both of them.

Seems to be a rash of these two items leaking lately, must be due to everyone's X getting a little older.

 

Hi I recently got a Jag X-type and from reading this thread I replaced the PVC pipe. I got one from the dealer in Tucson for $16. Two mins to install. Good call! The OG pipe is just a fiber-reinforced rubber tube, the new one is a black PVC molded part with clamps! Here's a pic of the two.


[IMG]file:///C:/Users/SHAWNP%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-29.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Users/SHAWNP%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-30.png[/IMG]

 

hi i also had this problem and after looking at Buckmr2 photo found a split that ran almost the entire length of this hose, don't know if it is rectified but the cruise control unavailable and engine management light went off immediately, my question is my car has been showing P0430 and P0420 emission control problems, could the split in this pipe also been the reason for these engine codes ?

 

Those 2 codes will definately be related to the split pipe (had them on mine when the hose was split).The chances of 2 different sensors on different engine banks going at the same time are minimal.
Unmetered air gets into the system through the split and causes incorrect readings from the 2 lambda sensors upstream of the cats.
Im sure once you replace the pipe (or tape it temporarily) within a few cold-hot drive cycles the MIL will extinguish.

 

Hi Guys,

I had the same issue of the 'Engine Management' Light coming on, then the 'Cruise not Activated' warning showing, with the amber light under the speedo.

The amber light and Cruise text would disappear once I'd driven a while - and if I drove past 3,000 RPM, it would judder like when hitting the rev limiter.

I looked up the issue on this site and cross referenced it to some other sites and narrowed it down to the PCV hose as the likely issue.

I lifted the bonnet with the engine running and heard a hissing sound - which I located as being right near the PCV hose. I turned off the engine and removed the plastic engine cover - checked the hose and it was intact.

I realised that the end of the hose that runs into the cast metal area at the bulkhead end (?manifold / injectors) had pulled away from the metal flange which had a rubber 'collar' around it, so was not giving a good seal (mine was the hose that had no jubilee clip at this end of the hose, and was just a push-fit onto the metal.

I resecured this, by stretching the end of the hose back over the rubber 'collar' and pushed it all back over the metal pipe/flange bit sticking out from the cast metal (sorry, my mechanical terminology isn't great).

The Cruise Not Active warning never came back on again - but the Engine Management light stayed on...

I was going to go to a mechanic, to get this reset - but recalled the info about the light self-exstinguishing after a five starts. I turned it over five times and it stayed on...

But, I drove it properly about 3 times over the next day - and the light has now gone out!

I reckon I've saved myself about £100-200 in diagnostic and 'repair' work (when all they needed to do was push a hose back on).

Thanks to BuckMR2 and all the others, for the advice in this thread. I hope my own contribution will help someone else to confirm this problem if they get it...

Steve.

 

I have all the same issues its code P1314 as per Discount auto, I'm still searching for the bad line though, anyone got a picture of all vacuume lines, I search and can't find one