maybe.. but I think I got it right.. The break switch works fine. That I had already checked.
The CC switch works the other way and that is also the conclusion I had. I think... but this quest and my normal work might have "fried" my brain too..

So I took the CC (green one ((the one above the black and white one)) ) out again just now.

When I put a multimeter on it; on sound and I do not press the plunger in, it makes no noise. When I push it in, it makes a noise

and on Ohms it reads 54,5 on 200Ohm again ONLY when I push in the white Plunger.

So that is indeed inverted on what you tell me....??

 

Yes, brake light switch with pedal up is in "normally open position" = no current flow, thus no brake light). Press pedal circuit closes and completes contact for current flow to the bulbs.

The cruise control switch is opposite. In pedal not depressed, it is in "normally closed" position allowing current completion path. When you tap or depress the pedal it "breaks" the current path and cruise cancels.

 

how would that be possible...??!

So your guess is this is a broken switch.. How could it be inverted all of a sudden..??!

 

It's not inverted. The brake light switch works the same as your door switches. Closed door = broken current path, no lights on and no "door open" on dash display. Open the door (switch closes = completes current path) & lights come on and dash displays "Xxx door open")

The cruise cancel is opposite, thus my admonition to make sure you are testing the correct switch for which function.

 

yes.. I get that

so I took the lower one, the grey black out.

that one works like this:

if not pressed in, the multimeter makes a noise. When pushed in it stops.

So the question is, Is that what both are supposed to do??
And I have always thought that the green one is high up and the black/grey one under that.

Do not think they have ever been disconnected together and or mixed up

 

Brake light switch (bulbs) =



​​​​​​Cruise control cancel switch, part #C2S46706

Hmmmmm....another number =
C2S3685




I

 

Yes the grey black one is the same (or at least looks like it)

my "green" one looks a little different on your photo. that has part number:

94bb9c872ac

So I guess we are talking about the same items, on presumably the same place, green high, black under it. And I described how they work..
Its late here, but I guess they work as they should??

Black grey one works if not pressed in it makes a noice on the multimeter, if pushed in its quiet.

The green one does it the other way around: the CC (green one ((the one above the black and white one))
When I put a multimeter on it; on sound and I do not press the plunger in, it makes no noise. When I push it in, it makes a noise

and on Ohms it reads 54,5 on 200Ohm again ONLY when I push in the white Plunger.

 

 

Dell: Norbert is correct on how the brake switches work. It's confusing because the "normal" position of the brake pedal and the "normal" position of the switch are opposite: When the brake pedal is in it's "normal" position - not pressed down - the pedal arm pushes on the switch plungers, pressing them into their their "normal" depressed positions. And when the brake pedal is pressed down to it's "not normal" position, the pedal arm moves away from the switch plungers so the "not normal" position for the switches is NOT depressed.

Makes sense? If 'no', have another beer or glass of wine and re-read until it does!

Norbert: The ELM327 is a very basic, inexpensive code reader only for engine error codes, aka OBDII codes (at least as far as I know). The Autel code readers do a LOT more, and cost more. The Autel AL619 reads codes for the engine, ABS (antilock brake system) and SRS (supplemental restraint system, aka air bags). Mine came out of the box preloaded for the major brands, e.g., GM, Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, Nissan, Honda, etc. IIRC. For other brands such as Jaguar, I unplugged a microSD card from the Autel, plugged it into my PC and downloaded from Autel's website the software updates for the other brands I needed.

Autel's user manual on their website (links below) says it supports these brands: "More than 50 US, Asian and European vehicles, including Acura, Audi, Bentley, Benz, BMW, Bugatti, Chrysler, Ford, EU Ford, GM, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Jaguar, Kia, Land Rover, Lexus, Maybach, Mazda, Mini, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Opel, Porsche, Saab, Scion, Seat, Skoda, Smart, Sprinter, Suzuki, Toyota, Vauxhall, Volvo, VW, Renault, Peugeot, Lancia, Fiat, Dacia, Citroen, Alfa, Abarth. More vehicle supports will come out with new updates released."

Bottom line: Like Dell, I keep a few cheap ELM327's in the glove box of several cars in case the check engine light turns on while on the road. And I use the Autel for any ABS issue, and for more complicated engine trouble shooting and diagnosis.

https://www.auteltech.com/Code%20Rea...ners/361.jhtml
https://www.auteltech.com/u/cms/www/...034407ved9.pdf

 

Post #8 was why I chimed in. That post sounded like the cruise cancel test which would be backwards yes? That had to have been brake (bulb) switch.

 

So, conclusion is that switches on the brake pedal do what they supposed to do.

I just changed the O rings, they both still had the yellow ones. And one was glued (with a sort of Bitume) to the metal, some garagist that didn't want to wait for a new o-ring. Anyway, cleaned and changed. But made no difference in the cruise not available yet.

In a different discussion on this forum here I was put on track of the throttle body..

As I explained there about the throttle: in key mode 2 it does make a click not hard but like something flips and "clicks" in a position. I noticed now a humming sound with it, bit like the sound a petrol pump makes on a classic car. But it comes from the throttle body!! And additional to that humming sound is a high pitched noise.. bit like a mosquito...

When I turn key in off mode, it makes a range of clicks, about 5 and the humming sounds stop.

I was told to open it and look for the brushes.. I however do not have a 5point screwdriver.. So can't quickly check. What is the opinion in this group on the throttle body.
I know I ask question that a good reader (which I ordered) might answer.. But somehow I think that our combined brainpower could do the same!

 

 

Agree to get a better code reader that can read C codes as well as P codes. Before you start randonly replacing parts get the codes read and see if you have any for the wheel speed sensors. They are a very common cause for "Cruise Control Not Available". Certainly not the only one though.

 

Its on, and also the cruise not available is on, Even before start of engine and also after a computer reset.

Also when we tried to delete the codes, the light has not (or just very shortly) disappeared.

Right now I do not have a good reader. AMAZON told me it will be here tuesday. but the boardcomputer tells me no DTC codes. It does tell me some others but after googling those I didn't get much further.

So.. my bed is waiting for the reader.
What I have changed sofar are the "necessary" things to change anyway, i will not buy on the fly..

But thoughts ideas and experiences remain welcome!

 

today the Autel arrived.

And I was able to do the following.

I have read the error codes, and I wanted to test if I could reset them. And that worked. The engine warning light is now of. But the cruise control not available didn't disappear.

The error codes are:

1 - P0037 Ho2S heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2

2 - P1030
Mass or volume air flow A circuit high

3 - P1646
Auxiliary inputs
Auxiliary outputs

4 - P1647
heated oxygen sensor control module
bank 2 open/shorted

Just an update, I will look them over myself later tonight. But eager to hear thoughts ideas and experiences

 

Norbert: Numerous error codes are often caused by one, maybe two "real" errors, and the rest are "sympathetic" errors that will clear themselves up after you fix the "real" problem. Since you already have cleared the errors, watch for the check engine light to turn on again and see which code appears first. That's most likely the "real" problem.

I would not be surprised if the first code to reappear is P0037 - Oxygen sensor for Bank 1, Sensor 2. These oxygen sensors have a heating element that goes bad at ~100K miles, causing a cascade of "sympathetic" error codes.

Bank 1 is on the firewall / bulkhead side of the engine, and sensor 2 is the downstream oxygen sensor. Assuming your X-Type is a left hand drive, you can see this oxygen sensor by standing next to the right, front tire with the hood up. Look down into the gap between the engine and bulkhead for the top of the sensor and it's wires poking out from the heat shield that covers the catalytic converter on this side of the engine.

This post has pictures showing the location of the 4 oxygen sensors on our X-Types: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084601

And the prior post in that thread has pictures of the electrical connectors for all 4 oxygen sensors: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1084230

If P0037 is the first error code, let us know and we'll show you some tricks to reach and replace this sensor without removing the intake manifold. It's a lot easy with the intake manifold off the engine, but can be done without removing the intake.

 

Great response! Thanks!

After just a little drive the MAF came back first (and only)
So that piece is ordered.

My wife took the (her) car out for her normal routine drive this morning and I will check them again tonight.

If indeed the 37 code will be back I'll let you know!

 

Norbert: Makes sense. MAF's routinely need to be cleaned, and less often need to be replaced. When an MAF goes bad, the engine's computer - ECM is missing a key input to manage the air / fuel ratio.

This post has a PDF with all the OBD error codes for our X-Types. Some codes can have a different Jaguar description vs. what is displayed on your code reader: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...01/#post920985

 

well the car is back and I checked for the codes right away.

Codes now are

P0037 Low bank1 sensor 2
P0103
P1646
P1647

So indeed I get a 37. Yesterday after a short drive the 103 came back first.

I will get the MAF tomorrow, so we will know more than I guess. But from your post I think I read that I should be worried it might be something else (too)

 

O2 sensors but, wait for new MAF, clear faults, do not turn key on or start, replace MAF, drive to see if any or all faults reappear.