cruise not available, endless quest
#1
cruise not available, endless quest
hello,
I was a member before but for some reason, I needed to make a new login.
However my 2002 V6 3.0 X has the cruise not available..
I went through all, o rings, the hoses, vacuums, fuses, MAF and all, but still not clear. spark plugs will be next to check.
Now I got stuck on JAGUAR X-TYPE CRUISE CONTROL DEACTIVATION BRAKE SWITCH the green one. Is there a way to measure it to be sure if it works. I took it out and with a multi meter and the button pushed in there is a contact. But the measurement keeps bouncing around.. so not sure how to be sure it works..
Anyone any experience??
thhanks
I was a member before but for some reason, I needed to make a new login.
However my 2002 V6 3.0 X has the cruise not available..
I went through all, o rings, the hoses, vacuums, fuses, MAF and all, but still not clear. spark plugs will be next to check.
Now I got stuck on JAGUAR X-TYPE CRUISE CONTROL DEACTIVATION BRAKE SWITCH the green one. Is there a way to measure it to be sure if it works. I took it out and with a multi meter and the button pushed in there is a contact. But the measurement keeps bouncing around.. so not sure how to be sure it works..
Anyone any experience??
thhanks
#2
I am however not sure this has much to do with it.
I had the fan module changed and after this the problems started (ie the cruise not available) limp mode and a hard time getting started.
So I doubt a sensor is the fault of all that.
as written: O rings are ordered, the ribbeled pipe installed a few years back, spark plugs will be looked at soon.
I just started looking here cause I had the problem with the black and white brake sensor a few years back.. Didnt replace but pulled it out just a little, and I once had it after a rear light bulb change...
So I know how damn complicated it can be to find the cause ,
I had the fan module changed and after this the problems started (ie the cruise not available) limp mode and a hard time getting started.
So I doubt a sensor is the fault of all that.
as written: O rings are ordered, the ribbeled pipe installed a few years back, spark plugs will be looked at soon.
I just started looking here cause I had the problem with the black and white brake sensor a few years back.. Didnt replace but pulled it out just a little, and I once had it after a rear light bulb change...
So I know how damn complicated it can be to find the cause ,
The following users liked this post:
Norbert Rman (09-20-2018)
#4
Norbert: The wiring diagrams for our X-Types are here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4-25-a-152076/
Cruised Control Cancel switch on the brake pedal is called the "Brake Cancel Switch" in these wiring diagrams. It's normally closed, and opens (to deactivate the cruise control) when the brake pedal is depressed.
Not to be confused with the "Brake On/Off Switch", also on the brake pedal, which is normally open, and closes (to activate the brake lights) when the brake pedal is depressed.
For both switches, the plunger length is adjustable. Remove the switch from the brake pedal and give the plunger a firm tug with your fingers. You may fear that you'll break it, but go ahead and give the plunger a firm tug to extend it to full length. Then, re-install the switch and the plugger will self-adjust to the correct length. Take care not to break the small plastic tabs that hold the switch in position when removing and re-installing it on the metal bracket.
Cruised Control Cancel switch on the brake pedal is called the "Brake Cancel Switch" in these wiring diagrams. It's normally closed, and opens (to deactivate the cruise control) when the brake pedal is depressed.
Not to be confused with the "Brake On/Off Switch", also on the brake pedal, which is normally open, and closes (to activate the brake lights) when the brake pedal is depressed.
For both switches, the plunger length is adjustable. Remove the switch from the brake pedal and give the plunger a firm tug with your fingers. You may fear that you'll break it, but go ahead and give the plunger a firm tug to extend it to full length. Then, re-install the switch and the plugger will self-adjust to the correct length. Take care not to break the small plastic tabs that hold the switch in position when removing and re-installing it on the metal bracket.
The following users liked this post:
Norbert Rman (09-20-2018)
#5
#6
#7
Norbert: By "put a multimeter on it", I assume the multimeter was set to measure resistance / Ohms (Ω). Set the multimeter to the lowest resistance, say 200 Ohms. Better yet, if it has a audible mode, use this so it beeps when you touch the red & black wires together.
When your foot is NOT pressing down on the brake pedal, the plunger on the green brake cancel switch (aka cruise control cancel switch) will be depressed. In this position - with the plunger depressed - the switch (if working properly) should be closed and have nearly zero resistance (the multimeter will beep in audible mode). If the resistance measurement is low but jumps around, that's ok - it's probably because the red and black wires from the multimeter are not held steady against the electrical contacts of the switch. Try taping the plunger down so you have don't have to hold it down while you make good, steady contact with the red & black wires.
When your foot is pressing down the brake pedal, the plunger on the green brake cancel switch will not be depressed. In this position - the plunger not depressed - the switch should be open and have very high / infinite resistance (the multimeter will stop beeping in audible mode).
The most common problem with these brake switches occurs when they are loose or misaligned in the brake pedal bracket. It's not very common for the electrical contacts inside the switch to fail. Can it happen? Yes. Does it happen? Not often in my experience.
When your foot is NOT pressing down on the brake pedal, the plunger on the green brake cancel switch (aka cruise control cancel switch) will be depressed. In this position - with the plunger depressed - the switch (if working properly) should be closed and have nearly zero resistance (the multimeter will beep in audible mode). If the resistance measurement is low but jumps around, that's ok - it's probably because the red and black wires from the multimeter are not held steady against the electrical contacts of the switch. Try taping the plunger down so you have don't have to hold it down while you make good, steady contact with the red & black wires.
When your foot is pressing down the brake pedal, the plunger on the green brake cancel switch will not be depressed. In this position - the plunger not depressed - the switch should be open and have very high / infinite resistance (the multimeter will stop beeping in audible mode).
The most common problem with these brake switches occurs when they are loose or misaligned in the brake pedal bracket. It's not very common for the electrical contacts inside the switch to fail. Can it happen? Yes. Does it happen? Not often in my experience.
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#8
#10
Norbert: Any error codes, including pending codes? If you don't have a code reader, most auto parts stores will read the codes for read. Ask if there are any pending codes as well.
The pesky "cruise not available" message often appeared on my 2002 X-Type. At the same time, the engine was throwing a pending error code from an aging knock sensor (factory original with ~140+K miles). I didn't connect the two until the knock sensor finally failed, threw a full blown error code and I replaced it. To my surprise, the "cruise not available" message immediately stopped and never returned after that.
I'm not suggesting the knock sensor is failing on your X-Type. Just suggesting to see if you have any pending error codes, which, in my experience, can caused the "cruise not available" message.
The pesky "cruise not available" message often appeared on my 2002 X-Type. At the same time, the engine was throwing a pending error code from an aging knock sensor (factory original with ~140+K miles). I didn't connect the two until the knock sensor finally failed, threw a full blown error code and I replaced it. To my surprise, the "cruise not available" message immediately stopped and never returned after that.
I'm not suggesting the knock sensor is failing on your X-Type. Just suggesting to see if you have any pending error codes, which, in my experience, can caused the "cruise not available" message.
#12
thanks for both replies, the latter came while I was typing.
I did get a proper read out, and there were some codes but we had to reset them and after there where a few that returned but nothing specific. So I will make an appointment with a specialist and a different computer.
Not sure what a Knock sensor is, but Ill keep it in mind.
Problem is that I thought I got the car properly serviced but now I am busy with it myself I am kinda shocked. So I just ordered new air filter, gas filter cause it seems to me these are ancient.
MAF sensor was super dirty. cleaned it, but made no change in the message (cruise) yet.
I did get a proper read out, and there were some codes but we had to reset them and after there where a few that returned but nothing specific. So I will make an appointment with a specialist and a different computer.
Not sure what a Knock sensor is, but Ill keep it in mind.
Problem is that I thought I got the car properly serviced but now I am busy with it myself I am kinda shocked. So I just ordered new air filter, gas filter cause it seems to me these are ancient.
MAF sensor was super dirty. cleaned it, but made no change in the message (cruise) yet.
#13
Norbert: Most auto parts stores will read the engine codes for free. Or for ~$10 you can buy an ELM327. Search Google, eBay or Amazon. I use an iPhone and WiFi ELM327. Android phones work with the Bluetooth ELM327. Plenty of free OBD apps are available.
To read the ABS codes, e.g., wheel speed sensors, you need a more expensive code reader, which auto parts stores don't do for free, at least not the stores I frequent. For ABS codes, I use an Autel AL619. Many others ABS code readers are available.
To read the ABS codes, e.g., wheel speed sensors, you need a more expensive code reader, which auto parts stores don't do for free, at least not the stores I frequent. For ABS codes, I use an Autel AL619. Many others ABS code readers are available.
#14
Norbert: Good to clean the MAF sensor, but be certain to clean the "hidden" MAF wires and not just the more visible IAT sensor.
This post has pictures of both: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1944148
This post has pictures of both: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1944148
#15
Unfortunately DW, I don't think France has parts stores like here in the U.S. (every other corner).
Norbert, if you are planning on keeping and driving an X, buy an OBD reader that will utilize your phone type (Apple/Android) as DW suggested. They are not very expensive, then go to appropriate store (Apple/Google) & download an app for the reader. Reading codes on these cars is essential on getting an idea where/what/why a problem exists and getting help here in the forums. I carry one in the lower middle glove box.
Norbert, if you are planning on keeping and driving an X, buy an OBD reader that will utilize your phone type (Apple/Android) as DW suggested. They are not very expensive, then go to appropriate store (Apple/Google) & download an app for the reader. Reading codes on these cars is essential on getting an idea where/what/why a problem exists and getting help here in the forums. I carry one in the lower middle glove box.
#18
gonna do that RIGHT NOW
Norbert: Good to clean the MAF sensor, but be certain to clean the "hidden" MAF wires and not just the more visible IAT sensor.
This post has pictures of both: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1944148
This post has pictures of both: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1944148
I have never seen or heard that before... Its late and I had a few glasses of wine..But this quest intrigues me...so I am gonna get my 99,9 alcohol and clean the **** out of it..!
#19
Norbert: Most auto parts stores will read the engine codes for free. Or for ~$10 you can buy an ELM327. Search Google, eBay or Amazon. I use an iPhone and WiFi ELM327. Android phones work with the Bluetooth ELM327. Plenty of free OBD apps are available.
To read the ABS codes, e.g., wheel speed sensors, you need a more expensive code reader, which auto parts stores don't do for free, at least not the stores I frequent. For ABS codes, I use an Autel AL619. Many others ABS code readers are available.
To read the ABS codes, e.g., wheel speed sensors, you need a more expensive code reader, which auto parts stores don't do for free, at least not the stores I frequent. For ABS codes, I use an Autel AL619. Many others ABS code readers are available.
just ordered the Autel.. I have more cars and was looking for a good one that works on all.
i presumed the Autel can do what the cheaper ELM can do too..!?
Jaguar, Volvo. Alfa and Maserati
Last edited by Norbert Rman; 09-20-2018 at 04:54 PM.
#20
Norbert, reread the advice given on testing the 2 switches - the cruise cancel switch vs the "using" my brakes switch (brake light activation) because you keep posting it's working the opposite of what advice was given. You need to pay close attention to which switch works which way.
Cruise cancel switch gives NO READING (ZERO OHMS) when depressed....
Cruise cancel switch gives NO READING (ZERO OHMS) when depressed....
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 09-20-2018 at 04:58 PM.