OK, so my first auction buy/build was my 2003 X-Type. So far, overall, it has been fantastic and I love it as my (semi) daily-driver. I did a pretty significant suspension replacement on all 4 wheels. On the front, I replaced the strut, inc. the bumper, bearing, damper, etc), sway bar links, and the ball joints. So, on the latter, I didn't replace the entire lower control arm. I drilled the old out, which was a HUGEEE pain, and simply replaced the ball joint portion. The lower arm looked to be in good shape otherwise, which is why I chose this method. When I bought it, it had some really new, less than a year old Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires on there. Not the best, but far better than it could have been tread wise. Car drives fine, nothing to indicate any alignment or toe issue, well except for a slight rhythmic drone that may make more sense now. Oh, well also, I seem to have some noticeable bump steer as well which now that I type this could be a sign for sure.

As I was coming out of a store, I happened to notice that the outside shoulder on the passenger side tire looked to be worn to the point it was a bit shocking and noticeable. Upon further inspection, the tread is worn at a pretty steep angle from inside to out. Meaning, the inside shoulder is plenty of tread and the outside shoulder is quote worn. Checked the other side, sure enough, the same. Now, I don't believe I inspected the tread or tires that closely when I was doing the work, so I cannot say for certain if this was already like this when I won it at auction. My gut tells me that I don't believe it was. However, if this is the case, I am surprised as I have only driven it about 2000 miles since I completed all of this work. If it is from me, then holy cow it is just shredding the outside shoulders. BUT, it does not look like I can see any camber or toe and it doesn't squeal or make any noises much when turning, even at slow speeds, so head scratcher.

I didn't have an alignment and honestly, I am appalled at the quality and skill of most indy mechanics around anymore, except for 2 older guys I use exclusively and neither do alignment so I plan on purchasing some alignment plates for a "good enough" test and adjustment. That being said, I have read there is no adjustment for camber on the front of the X-Type. This being the case, it seems out of all I did, replacing the ball joints alone may contribute to this problem? I suppose I should determine if I have some seriously out of spec toe or camber and go from there, but just looking to see if anyone else has any experience with this?

 

Well, an alignment is an absolute must after suspension work, so there you go. Also (ask me how I know, hard lesson learned nearly new tires to cords in 2,000 miles) based on a British member Jag Tech, that our kitties require the rear alignment FIRST and then the front. Nearly new tires aligned after rotation to cords...
New tires, rear first alignment, then front, wear even and true for over 4 years (with rotations of course).

 

I appreciate the response. My personal experience is that unless you replace or adjust anything related to alignment, then most of the time an alignment is not actually a must. I did nothing with the tie rod ends other than remove them from the knuckle and move them out of the way. However, I do agree that alignment needs to be checked because something is off whether it be from my work or from work performed previous to me owning it. I will check alignment and, if needed, adjust toe since that is really all that can be adjusted on these without custom measures or parts. I don't think my tires are directional nor do they have white lettering on the other side, so I think they can be flipped around. The reason I'd want to have my guy flip the tires is because I surely don't want to buy a set of new tires and test with those. I caught it at a point where it still has tread and is not cords, but too much longer like this and it would be. I am hoping that when I check the alignment there is something noticeably off. I won't go so far as replacing the lower control arms in whole, just yet. Getting those ball joints out and into the steering knuckle was a HUUUUGE PITA. Once of the most frustrating things I have dealt with on any vehicle I have ever worked on. I sort of figure out the "trick" towards the end, but still very difficult so I want to avoid if I can!

While I have you, does your X-Type have noticeable bump steer? Meaning, can you feel a lot more of the road in the steering wheel and if you go over bumps, there is a little steering that happens on its own? Not in a big or dangerous way really, just noticeable more so that other cars on average. I know some cars can have this more than others and in many ways it can be desirable up to a point depending on driving habits and style. I do have this and it could certainly be an indication of some issues. usually related to the steering rack or tie rod ends which could also cause this problem.

 

There is enough variance in manufacturing alone from part to part to throw alignment off. New struts could change the ride height a 1/4-1/2", which may not be noticeable but most definitely changes the alignment due to the new static/neutral angle of the LCA and tie rods. You'd be surprised how little change you need to make to through off the alignment. It usually takes me 2-3x to dial in the toe on an alignment rack just because the toe will change 0.5*+ per side when you cinch down the tie rod lock nut.

Check your own tire pressures prior to the alignment, get a before/after print out and bring a weight for the driver's seat if you want to get real fancy. Some manufactures call for the weight.

 

Hello farm-jag,
the suspension of the x-Type is not so easy to handle. It's not so easy to make adjustments from the wrist. The factory specifications for rear camber are not always feasible. At the front, the toe-in should be -0.8 mm, but these are standard values. We have always determined this by trail and error. The settings always have to be made under load, which is a challenge in itself. I've never heard of anyone drilling out a tie rod end. And finally, yes, if this part is replaced, a track adjustment is essential. You can't say whether it was a mistake to replace just the tie rod end without knowing the condition of the suspension joint. In any case, it was a mistake not to check the track adjustment. This almost never works.

 

Hey thanks for the reply. Just wondering if you misspoke by saying tie rod end when you meant ball joints or if you thought I meant I did this to the tie rod end? For clarification, I didn't do anything to the tie rod end other than break it loose from the knuckle to get at the rear of the components. Had I replaced the tie rod ends, I absolutely would have done an alignment for sure.. Like you, I also haven't heard of someone drilling out a tie rod end 😂

Mike