Hi all.

Seems like my X-type 3.0 has windows OS installed because once in a while it needs a reboot....

Let me explain:
I have my X converted for LPG and about 4 years ago, when running on petrol it started to hesitate and sometimes it threw an error (missfire on cilinder 1 , other times 5, etc).
When this happened If I change to LPG it would run like clockwork.
Since most of the time I ran it on LPG I didnt care very much about the problem.

Nowadays it started to happen also when I run it on LPG or Petrol, although when the problem apears on petrol changing to LPG makes it go away, but if it happens on LPG changing to petrol, LPG again, etc does not help.

Strage thing is ..... if I stop the car, turn if off, wait a few seconds and start it again , the problem goes away, and the car is fine for 1 week/2 weeeks/2 days/etc

It is driving me mad

Do any of you guys can shed some light

Thanks

 

amcastro1, the ECU is NOT running on a windows based system of any kind. It is a proprietary program that Jaguar has using a universal addressing system (this is what allows every car to have the same error code for a given problem, ie, P0171 is a vacuum leak in the intake regardless if it is your jag or a Kia).

 

Oh, one other thing. I know this might sound crazy but a lot of others will most likely chime in is a simple question, How hold is your battery? We have discovered that when you start having silly issues like this, the battery is starting to get weak and it will cause the computers in the car to start acting funny. If the battery is say over 3 years old, replace the battery and see what you have then. You can also get a load test done on the battery at your local auto parts store and if they tell you that it is under 75%, replace it. Even if it is close, replace it. You might be surprised as to the result.

 

Thanks for your inputs Thermo.

It seems strange that the battery is to blame, but as mine is more than 3 years old I will follow your advice and change it.

Can you tell me the recomended specs for the battery (I have a 12V 640EN 70Ah)

Thanks

 

amcastro1, you are after a "Type 94R" battery. Ideally you want one with over 800 CCA and an 80 AH reserve. Seeing that your previous one is only a 640 CCA battery, the battery is on the small side and can potentially lead to problems.

 

Thanks again Thermo

mine is 640 EN which is equivalent to 700CCA
Today I will buy a Tudor (Exide) battery and the seller has a 80Ah with 2 eyars warranty for 125€ and a 85Ah with 3 years warranty for 146€. Should I get the 80 or 85 one? Is it worth the difference in price?

Also in onother forum a member said that before changing the battery I should touch the leads together to "reset" the ECU. Is this safe or needed?

Thanks

 

amcastro1, getting the bigger battery probably is not needed. Besides, I think you will find the 85AH one will not fit in the battery box.

As for touching the leads together, not required. The idea behind touching the leads together is if a computer stores any electrical charge (ie, capacitors in the computer), by touching the wires, it will quickly discharge this voltage. The same thing happens in a much more controlled manner since most capacitors also have a resistor in parallel to them. This will cause the capacitor to naturally discharge when power is removed. So, in the time it takes you to disconnect the leads, remove the battery, put the new battery in, the capacitors have discharged fully. Either way works, but why add another step to the process?

What resets the ECU is loosing power to the memory in the computer, not touching the leads together.

 

unfortunatly the new battery did not solve the problem

even today while running on Petrol, the car started to hesitate and the mil light started to blink. Changed it to LPG and it ran fine for 50Km.

Does any of you would like to provide any input?

Regards

 

amcastro1, get the MIL code(s) read and lets see what that says. That will hopefully point us in the right direction. To simply say that the engine isn't running right leaves a lot of possbilities. Atleast with the code(s), it will narrow down where the problem may lay and help us get it fixed with a single part vice randomly replacing stuff until it gets better.

 

Hi thermo. Thanks for your help.
Usually and because I "restart" the car when the problem occurs it leaves me with no codes.
The 2 time I got codes I got
First time
P0301
P1313
P0201
Second time
P0201

I remember a LONG time ago I read a cilinder 5 missfire

 

Blinking = severe catalyst damage occurring

Sounds like you have misfires.

Commonly bad coil(s).

 

If you see above, most of the times if I change to LPG the problem goes away, so I think the coilsand plugs are not to blame, but I can be wrong......