2004 X-Type 2.5L Manual:
Reading various threads, I think my e-brake problem is due to a bad caliper. I have not figured out which one has gone bad yet - I'll jack up one wheel at a time and try to spin it while applying e-brake.

As I'm a complete newbie working on brakes, here are my questions.

1. Is an e-brake pad separate than a foot brake pad?
2. Are the two installed within the caliper?
3. Do I need to replace foot brake pad when replacing the caliper?
4. Should I replace both left and right rear calipers at the same time for performance/safety concern? Or doesn't matter?
5. Or could I lubricate the caliper to fix the issue of binding without getting a new caliper?

I would appreciate your feedback!!!

 

sean, easy way to check is to jack up one side of the car so you can see the e-brake cables in the center of the car. Now, engage the e-brake. If both are working properly, the splitting bar will remain parallel to the rear bumper. If you see the splitting bar pointing towards a wheel, then the wheel it is pointing to is the one that has the bad caliper.

As for the pad setup, the normal foot pedal pad is the same pad as the e-brake pad. The e-brake cable manually engages the hydraulic (foot pedal) piston (which pushes on the braking pad).

As for replacing pads when you change the caliper, you don't have to, but I would say if you are that far into it, might as well spend the few extra bucks and do the complete job so you are not going in a short time later.

When it comes to lubricating the caliper, some have had luck, others haven't (like me). A new caliper can be had from NAPA for around $130 (after core return).

 

Thanks so much for the detailed help Thermo!
Would you recommend getting two new calipers, or is it still safe to replace only the broken one and has no performance degradation, etc due to efficiency of the two different calipers?
Thanks in advance.

 

As long as the one caliper is still moving freely, then you only need to replace the one caliper. I find that the calipers on my car last about 2 years. So, I end up replacing a caliper ever year. it is an easy job to swap out a caliper. Just make sure to get a good bleed on the caliper to make sure that all air is out of the system. As long as you do that, things will be good as new.

 

Just to clarify... Since there is only one pad in the caliper and the caliper is not function as the e-brake doesn't, that mean the foot pedal brake wouldn't apply the pad out of the caliper either? It might sound funny since i have not seen how caliper works. Btw i do need a brake caliper tool set to work on it which has special tools for calipers right?
Much appreciated!

 

sean, the caliper in the rear does require a special tool. This can be obtained at most auto part stores for around $10. It will look like a cube about 1.5" on each side with various nubs on the corners. Then you use a 3/8" socket to spin the piston back into place. Keep in mind that one side of the car needs to be spun counter clockwise where the opposite side needs to be spun clockwise. When you turn the piston, watch it. If it starts coming out of the body, then you are spinning it the wrong way. I have also found that when you are pushing the piston back in, you need to have the vent port cracked open to allow the fluid to come out else you won't be able to push the piston back into place.

As for only having 1 pad, that is a problem in itself. You should have 2 pads. 1 on the outside of the rotor and one on the inside of the rotor. The piston pushes the one pad into the rotor and the rotor pushes back causing the entire caliper to slide a little towards the center of the car. This causes the other pad to start dragging on the rotor. This sandwiching of the rotor between the two pads is what causes the car to stop. The harder you step on the brake pedal, the more the pads are pushed into the sides of the rotor.

The foot pedal and the e-brake operate independent of each other. The foot pedal pushes hydraulic fluid to the caliper which causes the piston to move outwards, forcing the pad into the rotor. Release the foot pedal, some of the hydraulic fluid returns, letting the piston retract back slightly, easing the pads off of the rotor. Where the e-brake operates a lever, which through a mechanism inside of the caliper, mechanically forces the piston outwards, forcing the pads into the rotor.

 

Thanks so much Thermo!
I'll also try to look for some pictures/reference so I can relate your directions to have better feel before putting my hands on it. I'm being careful to ensure this is something I can do by myself sucessfully.

 

Sean, you mean something like this?



If you look on the left side, the ribbed piece coming through the trailing arm is the e-brake cable. This comes up and behind the top of the rotor. You will then see it go through a bracket there and then the cable comes out and goes to a lever arm on the top/back side of the caliper. Once you get the wheel off, this picture will make a lot more sense. To remove the cable, all you do is keep the e-brake handle down and then you slide the lever for the e-brake forward. This will allow you to slide the cable out. From there, a few bolts and all is good.

 

Wow! this is great!
I'll begin the work soon to first figure out which side has the issue then remove the wheel to confirm it's not the cable issue if cable could be broken or detached from the caliper.
I'm sure this picture and your directions will make my life a whole lot easier.
Thanks so much!!!

 

sean, I really doubt it is the cable. Almost every single person that has had your issue has found the caliper to be bad. I can't recall a bad cable amongst all of us. That is a blessing and a curse all in the same statement.

Once you get the wheel off, it will be easy to tell if your e-brake lever is the issue. I take a long screw driver, move the lever manually and you will be able to push the lever back some with the screw driver where it will not return on its own. Also, if you look down at the pivot point, you will see the mechanical stop. If it isn't on the mechanical stop, that is another indication that you have a problem.

 

Thanks! I'll get to it by this weekend and let you know whether i'm the lucky person or not! Thanks a million!!!

 

You are right Thermo.
It is the caliper. I've ordered a reman caliper and should work on it this weekend.
Thanks so much for all the help.

 

Sean, not a problem. I have to replace another one of my calipers here soon. THInking about doing a science project and seeing what the internals look like. He he he he. Seeing if I can determine what is causing the e-brake to freeze up so often on me. If the rebuild kit I come up with is nothing more than a few o-rings, I will pass on the information.

 

How hard is it to change a caliper? This has happened to my car twice already and now a third time I'm most certain. Is it that hard to change "if you got a brain and good hands" but no mechanic background

 

and1carter, replacing a caliper is one of the easier things to do. So, follow along and it should not be a problem for you.

-using a jack, lift the suspected wheel off of the ground and support the car on a jack stand.
-Remove the wheel from the car
-block the front wheels and then disengage the e-brake
-using a screw driver, push the e-brake lever a little forward to put some slack in the cable and then slide the end of the cable out from the slot that it sets in.
-Using the screw driver, push the e-brake lever back towards the rear bumper to fully disengage the e-brake (must be done else you are going to fight like mad to get the caliper off).
-On the back side of the caliper, there are 2 bolts (14mm?) that you need to remove.
-Using the screw driver, pry the caliper out of the mount. The pads are going to remain in the support for the braking system.
-Once the caliper is free, undo the bolt holding the brake line to the caliper.

Install is the reverse process. with the following exception:
-before installing the wheel, open the bleeder valve and then attach a 6 foot piece of 7/32" tygon tubing to the bleeder valve and route the tubing up to the top of the wheel well and tape it in place. Let the other end of the tubing hang with the open end hanging inside a can of some sort. Now, ensuring that the brake reservoir is full, pump the brakes about 10 times. Look at the fluid between the caliper and the top of the wheel well. Do you see air bubbles? Do you see a dark green fluid? If you answer yes to either one of these questions (ie, air in the brakes or old fluid in your brake system), then make sure you have the brake fluid topped off and pump the brakes a few more times. Repeat until you see no more air and you have a very clear (maybe a slight green tint) fluid in the tygon. At this point, tighten the bleeder valve and remove the tygon. Install the wheel and properly tighten the lugnuts.

 

Thanks for the write up thermo. It sounds pretty straight forward

 

Had the dealer fix a stuck piston which made the e brake not work. They replaced the whole caliper. I asked "what happened to taking out the piston and taking a little emory to the cyl. walls" . The reply " If we FIX it we are liable if something happens. If we REPLACE the part manufacturer is responsible". 1-800-lawyer won again. Jack

 

pophen, that and for the time it takes to tear the caliper apart, do what you are talking and putting it all back together, the shop time makes it almost as expensive as getting the new part. So, the mechanics are doing what is easier for them. I am looking at rebuilding one of my own calipers here shortly due to a continuous problem I have with the lever for the e-brake siezing. I found a rebuild kit delivered to my house for $11. Now I just need to get my hands on a spare caliper so I can rebuild it at my leisure and not have to be rushed when I need to put a new one on.