I had 2002 X-type for 5 years now. Recently had the problem with trans message and gearbox fault. Had drained and refilled the trans fluid 3 times The car is shifting better now in all gears. But, I notice going from N to D there is a delay in few seconds before the gear engage. For trans flush I used Gastrol - Transmax Import Multi-vehicle (12 quarts) Plus 12 oz Lucas Trans slip.

NOW OUT OF NO WHERE ENGINE START UP JUST FINE, BUT, AS SOON AS I CHANGED GEARS - ENGINE WILL RATTLING AND DIE. THIS PROBLEM ONLY IN R, D, 4, 3, AND 2. ENGINE IDLE SMOOTHLY IN P AND N.

I am at lost now. Anyone could help to suggest what I need to do?


During this time, I have done R&R: Valve cover gasket, Intake upper and lower gaskets, Throttle Body gasket, 2 gaskets for IMT, Serpentine Belt, Spark plugs, New hose between intake and valve cover (new design). I have unplugged/cleaned both TCM and DCM to check for corrosion/water damaged and none have been found.

 

pppham, from what you are describing, it is sounding like the torque converter is locked up and not disengaging. If you can figure how to do a check, what you can do is start the car in Neutral then get the car rolling at about 5-10 mph and then shift it into Drive. If the motor continues to run, then that would confirm the torque converter. From there, you should be able to get through the gears. Granted, you are going to find that the gear shifts are going to be on the harsher side as the torque converter will not be able to slip like it normally does during shifts.

Please understand that doing what I mention also has the possibility of causing more damage. Granted, at this point, the car is already broke. So do this at your own risk. Otherwise you are most likely going to need to take the car to a tranny shop and have them look over the tranny to which their answer will most likely be that you need to have the tranny rebuilt or atleast a new torque converter installed.

 

Thanks for the quick response. I think you are right. As soon as I move the gear from P to any other gears, I can heard loud noise seems directly underneath of Ebrake and arm rest and then engine will cut off right away. Any idea how much tranny shop will charge for both? Would any tranny shop can do it or do I have to take it to Steealership? Thanks,

 

pppham, any tranny shop can rebuild the tranny in your car as the tranny design is fairly generic over many car brands (uses a Jatco tranny which is used in Toyotas, Hondas, etc).

As for cost, this is going to be subjective as it also will depend on what is wrong with the tranny that requires replacement parts. But, you can probably plan on paying in the neighborhood of $2,000-3,000 to have a shop do everything.

 

I have had this happen on other vehicles and as Thermo said it is the torque converter staying locked up. On some vehicles a solinoid is used to lock up the converter. Not sure if Jag (Jatco) does it this way. If so maybe there is a fuse or connector that can be pulled out unplugged. Perhaps Thermo can check a wiring diagram as I do not have them. This does not fix the problem but will let you drive the car. The torque converter will not lock up and fuel milage will suffer a bit.

 

JagXV6, thanks for the info.
Thermo, if you know of any info mentioned by JagXV6 is greatly appreciated. I am hoping that I could move the car back to the house or the shop. Having said that, with the age of the vehicle and currently at 63k miles, I am still debating if I want to spend that kind of money knowing the history of this tranny. In your expert opinion, should I sell the damn thing for parts?

The weird thing about the whole thing, there is no sign prior to this problem and currently there is no codes registered in the system.

Thanks in advance.

 

pppham: I just had my transmission rebuilt at AAMCO for $2900. I had other issues, but they found an aftermarket torque converter that they would warranty for a year for $50 instead of the original $400 they quoted me.

If you go there, plan on spending $450 right of the bat for removal and diagnosis. But if you're looking at replacing just the torque converter this could be a sub-$1000 project for you

 

pppham, let me look at my diagrams and see what I can find. I may have a TSB for you to use too to help figure out what may be going on. So, keep an eye out.

As for whether to fix it or dismantle, that is hard to say. I would atleast spend the money to see if it is something simple like a torque converter (for the sub $1000 repair) or if you have something more serious. This would also give you a chance to put the car in neutral and roll it around to make a confirmation that it is not a transfer case issue (a bad transfer case would still allow the car to go into drive, but it would feel like you either had it in neutral or had the brakes on as hard as you could press the pedal).

 

Note I do not think there is anything wrong with the torque converter. It is being "told" to lock up when it shouldn't. In most cases the coverter does not lock up until the tranny is in 3rd gear. The lock up is activted by hydrolic pressure. GM. Vehicles use a solinoid to redirect fluid to move a spool vavle to open up a path for tranny fluid to apply pressue to the lock up clutch in the converter. It could be an electrical issue or the torque converter clutch spool valve is stuck keeping the pressue applied all the time.

 

pppham, without getting into the plug and pulling out a wire, there is no simple check that you can do to deactivate the torque converter solenoid. So, while I hate to say this, I think your best bet is to take it to a tranny shop, pay the initial investigation charge and then see what you may have. May be a cheaper fix, it may be that it is too much and not worth fixing. But I would trust the word of a reputable tranny shop about this.

 

emaraszek, just google and found a AAMCO near where my car broke down. Are these guys good with Jatco tranny? Are their price reasonable?

 

Hi Thermo, you stated "a bad transfer case would still allow the car to go into drive, but it would feel like you either had it in neutral or had the brakes on as hard as you could press the pedal"....... So I put the car in N and have 3 of my friends (6' above and ~200 lbs) try to push the car to a near by parking lot. We could not even push this POS more than 10 yds on an incline ~10 degree. This POS seems to weight two or three times more than my 740IL..... is this what you are talking about?

 

All, by the way, I try to swap out horn and tranny relay and nothing....replaced tranny relay with new one and nothing? Should I pull the TCM out again and hoping it will reset.

 

I just paid them $2,900 for a total rebuild. I was originally quoted at $3,200 but was told that they were able to source a much cheaper torque converter ($50 vs. $300) that they would still back with their 1-year warranty.

So if you're looking at just a torque converter, they'll charge you $450 for removal/diagnosis, around $50 for the part, and the cost of labor.

I'm actually going to pick up my car later today so I'll let you know how it goes. They seemed knowledgeable and understanding, and even did my NY inspection for free while the car was there.

Your issue is definitely different than mine because my car wasn't difficult to move, it just wouldn't go in gear.

 

pppham, first off, when you pull the e-brake lever, does the first half of the travel go really easy and then you feel the drag of the e-brake or do you feel it right off the bat? These cars have a problem with the e-brake levers sticking, which will make the car feel like they are very heavy. If your transfer case failed, it would tend to lock up and make it feel like you had shoved a metal rod through the spokes of the wheel and then tried to push the car. What you are describing with the heaviness is more like a sticking e-brake lever. It doesn't take much. If you need me to go into more detail about this, let me know. From the sounds of things, you are still looking at something in the tranny or torque converter.

 

Thanks to all, I decided to tow the car to a local tranny shop to replace the tranny. I will keep everyone posted in next few weeks.

emaraszek, AAMCO in my area quoted me the same work that you had for $800 less. However, I decided to go with the used tranny. They quote me between 1100 - 1400 parts and labor with 1 yrs warranty. By the way, they agreed to change the oil pan gasket while in it for free.

 

Are you saying AAMCO is giving you a warranty on a used one? They told me they wouldn't if I went that route, plus for me it was $2500 for used with no warranty or $2900 for rebuild with 1-year warranty so I did the rebuild.

1100-1400 is awesome if they find you a decent quality used one. It seems stupid of them to warranty it though if they have no idea how it was used/abused before being installed in your car. But that's their problem and not yours.