Hello!

This is my first post here on the Jaguar Forums so please let me know if I'm not doing something right...

With that said, I was hoping someone could help me better understand what's wrong with my 2002 X-Type.

Here we go...

I bought the car at the end of August, it was still pretty hot out so the there were no issues that were present during that time. I made sure all of the electrical stuff works, heater, AC, and all the major components, everything looked and sounded great so I bought the car. (She's pretty awesome!)

A month goes by and now that it's getting colder, a problem has appeared! In the morning, when the engine is cold, I get a very rough start. The car shakes/vibrates and the Engine Light is flashing. I did a lot of research into what this could be before posting and all the signs point to it being a Vacuum Leak.

After the Engine Light flashing for a few minutes, the engine warms up and it stops flashing. From there on, everything is fine! The day after, this all happens again, and it usually then also gives me the solid Engine Light. I read the codes, it gave me:
- P0300 - Random Misfire Detected
- P0302 - Misfire in Cylinder 2
- P0304 - Misfire in Cylinder 4
- P0306 - Misfire in Cylinder 6
- P1314 - Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 2

P1314 is of course just the result of Bank 2 misfiring. I listened to the engine when it was cold and there was some air leaking through the IMT valve. I replaced the O-rings, the solid Engine Light went away after the job, however, it's now back again.

I am planning on replacing the PCV hose, Intake Manifold gaskets, Plenum gaskets, Spark Plugs, perhaps the Coils and perhaps the Brake Booster hose.

Hitting the brakes while the Engine Light is flashing has no effect on the RPM so I would want to replace the Brake Booster hose last if all else fails.

So... onto my question, why is it only Bank 2 that's misfiring? Luckily Bank 2 is closer to the radiator so I can do more digging before needing to buy parts. Is there something I could take a look at that could be the cause of this?

I'm a little bit hesitant taking the car to the dealer, they charge $150/hr which could buy me most of these parts and I think it's a good time to change the Spark Plugs anyways, so I might as well do all of the other things.

Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the long-ish post, wanted to get as much detail in there as possible.

 

I have the same issue on my x-type at the moment, just got new IMT gaskets in the post, there is a slight leak on the upper IMT, I get Cruise Not Available as well.

This is intermittent, but also get some codes for the coils on that bank, so I will look at the ground point for these tomorrow.

Also found that MIL bulb has gone, so had loads of codes, found 3 oxy sensors dead which I replaced tonight, that has cleared those codes, and I was hoping, that the fuel air issue from the faulty O2 sensors was triggering the other issues, but still have the intermittent multiple misfires and limp home mode kicks in !

Let me know if you solved your issue, and I will update you with mine. Of course if anyone else can help us out that would be great.

Jon

 

In addition to the IMT o-rings, the breather elbow hose located under the lower inlet manifold is prone to failure resulting in various DTCs.

If you do not already have it, acquire the Workshop Manual from eBay or an Internet vendor as all of the procedures are explained.

Access to the breather elbow hose can be gained by removing both the upper and lower inlet manifolds. Due to the age of these vehicles, extreme care must be taken to avoid breaking many of the plastic parts such as breather hoses on the cam covers. It is also a good idea to replace the spark plugs on Bank1 and the cam cover inner and outer gaskets at the same time. Be careful when removing the inlet manifold bolts as they can be corroded and cause the brass captive nut inserts in the lower manifold to become loose. Use anti-seize compound during reassembly and only torque to within the correct specification.

 

I neglected to mention previously that removing the lower inlet manifold also requires removing the fuel injector rail and injectors. Dissipate the fuel pressure at the schrader valve before working on the injectors or rail.

It is also good to replace the injector to manifold seals to ensure there are no further possible air leaks from around the injectors.

 

Thanks NB,

for my interest, why does a vacuum leak seem to set codes for 1 bank only ?

Also, if there were vacuum leaks I would expect STFT to be high especially at idle as the ECM tries to compensate for the lean mixture, my STFT's are fine until the pending codes come up, then the fuel system goes into fault mode and fuel metering by the ecm is stopped, so STFT stays at 0.

Am I barking up the wrong tree here ?

Jon

 

From what I see it seems to me that you also may have clogged catalytic converter on Bank 2.

Is your car revving all the way up to redline without any problems?

 

It moves STFTs into LTFTs.

Flashing MIL = misfires so severe they're busy damaging the cat conv.

 

I agree that STFT should pass on to LTFT, but both are in range, and after a DTC reset LTFT is reset also, so the STFT should accurately show a vacuum leak as the ECM should increase fuel inline with the weak mixture.

The fault I have is intermittent which is difficult to isolate, hence me looking at the live data to see what is happening when it goes into fault mode, this would not indicate a clogged cat?
It never does it cold either, it is only after the warm up period when the fuel system runs closed loop, and then it is intermittent.

It could be heat affecting the IMT seals, I will change these and see what transpires.

Thanks for your input guys

 

Just changed IMT O rings, no change, but now showing faults P352 P354 P356 and Cruise not available, this comes and goes after warm up !

Exasperated !!!

I need to check earth points on coils now, or loom / ECM fault ?

 

One bank is not working, there is little probability that 3 coils or 3 injectors are faulty.
I'd rather say its power suppy problem.

Clogged cat on Bank2 will throw misfire codes: P0300, P0302, P0304 and P0306. And P1314. Additionally car will suffer from serious power loss at higher rpms due to restricted flow.

Now, you have P0352 P0354 P0356 so it seems like indeed coils are to blame.

 

Check the wiring loom to Bank1 for damage and under no circumstances drive the vehicle under conditions that cause the MIL to flash.

 

Hey guys, thanks for all of the feedback thus far!

I forgot to mention that I have the 2.5L engine, not the 3.0L.

I have some new codes! On top of the codes I mentioned earlier, I'm also now getting:
- P0303 - Misfire in Cylinder 3
- P1313 - Misfire Rate Catalyst Damage Fault - Bank 1

So the issue is no longer just on Bank 2! It kind of sucks that I'm not getting any other codes that could help isolate the issue.

I took her for a spin last night and reset the codes. I let the engine warm up and then, while the car was in Park, I revved it to see if it's capable of reaching the red line. I was able to get to 6500 RPM without any issues. I took it for a drive and floored it a couple of times, the first time I had her go to like 6k RPM and the subsequent times to 4500-5500. The car ran fine! No issues, no jerks, no roughness, just smoothness.

I ordered some parts so I'm still planning on doing the Spark Plugs as well as all of the Gaskets, just trying to see if you guys can think of anything else that I can do while I'm in there.

This morning, started her up, she was okay for the first 30 seconds, then the roughness began with the flashing MIL. After about a couple of minutes, it went away and I usually don't have any problems for the rest of the day.

I do have a question, though, how bad is this? Should I not drive the car at all? I wait for her to settle down before taking off, but, with it flashing that whole time, how much damage is this doing to the Cat converter?

Thanks again guys for all the help! I appreciate it.

 

I'm sorry I haven't noticed, that there are two of us with similar problems
Unfortunately, I'm not technician, with limited knowledge.

So, enigma, your cat converters seem to be alright, for now.
But you do have misfires on both banks for couple of minutes after start.
Did you check your STFT and LTFT like TilleyJon did?
Or reset your LTFT and fuel pump adjustements by disconnecting your battery for a couple of minutes?

Misfire can damage your catalyst converters, because unburnt fuel will go into exhaust system and burn in cats.

It can be
- vacuum leak (easily visible on STFT, but you don't have P0171 / P0174 codes, so I guess it's not the case)
- bad spark plugs (very problably)
- problem with fuel injection, or water in fuel (try using cleaning and water removal additives for petrol)
- problem with coils or coil power system (probably too)
- bad fuel pressure (try resetting fuel pump)
- air flow metering is failing miserably (but oxygen sensors would probably report it)

As for Ground Points on 2002 X-Type:
- ECU is connected to G8 (inner wheel arch near ECU).
- Fuel Pump G35 (LH 'E' Post)
- Ignition Coils - G8
- Fuel Injectors are connected to ECU and fuse box.

Don't forget to check ground points around battery too (G13 and G14).


Check your fuses too. Clean them with dedicated spray and reseat them.

F31 Mini 10 Red Engine management relay coil.
F32 Mini 5 Tan Engine management control.
F35 Diode D2 Engine management control relay diode.
F36 Mini 10 Red Canister purge valve, airflow meter, throttle motor relay, power wash
relay, air conditioning relay.
F37 Mini 15 Blue Engine management system, blower speed controller, road speed
sensor (if fitted).
F38 Mini 30 Green Oxygen sensor heaters A.
F39 Mini 5 Tan Variable intake valves.
F41 Mini 10 Red Injectors.
F42 Mini 30 Green Oxygen sensor heaters B.

 

If the MIL flashes at all, then it's VERY BAD. Fix it urgently.

 

Getting nowhere fast, have cleaned all relevant grounds, have reading of less than 1ohm from coil pack to ground, have tested coil voltage feed to be in excess of 12v, tested continuity on sense wire and trigger wire to ECM all ok.

So I now think that I either have 3 coil packs going down together, or a faulty ECM !

What is the chances of 3 coil packs going down ?

So am I looking at faulty ECM, it only occurs after warm up.

I get Cruise Not Available and misfires on bank 2, is the ECM faulty or is it shutting down bank 2 for another reason, the only codes are for misfire 302 304 306 or coil 352 354 356 cat damage and 1368 Ignition amplifier bank 2 (2, 4, 6)
fault.

Any further thoughts ?

 

Maybe this guide will help you:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...ain%20cont.pdf

Try pinpoint test G92415p1

 

Thank you for that, I have the JTIS which is what I have followed for all the checks ground points etc. That took me to that pin test which is where I gave the results. The end of that test says replace ECM !

I just have the feeling that the ECM is being triggered to shut down this bank by something else that is not showing up, I may well be wrong, its just a gut feeling I'm missing something.

I would love to know what the ECM does exactly when it triggers Limp Mode and Cruise not Available. If it shuts that bank down, then is there something triggering the ECM that is not throwing a code up ?

Anyone know what how the ECM actually controls limp mode and what it does to achieve that ?

many thanks for any and all input any help is appreciated.

Jon

 

I doubt that ECM shuts down the bank.
Emergency modes are to protect engine from further damage, for example - by restricting performance.
Shutting down the bank can cause engine damage, not to mention it's dangerous to the driver.

As far as I know (but I don't know much) in limp mode you can get restricted performance, rev limit@3000rpm and open loop mode.
Even with severe communication problems between modules, and no feedback from oxygen sensors, engine will still be running on all cylinders.

Oxygen sensor damage will trigger open loop operation on both banks. Short fuel trims will be 0 then, long trims will be frozen (or 0 after reset).
MIL will be on, but engine will be working. This is what you already know, though.

 

There's a really good chance the PCM (aka ECM) is fine but the fault has not yet been found - be it wiring or whatever.

There are usually pinpoint tests to do - see JTIS.

 

I have completed all the pin tests, and the result is faulty ECM !

I too felt that this was unlikely, but I have spoken to a couple of engineers, one is a Bosch service center owner, who also agrees that it is probably the ECM, he has had these go faulty before.

I asked him how the limp home mode was achieved and he said that the "Logic" internal to the ECM is different from manufacturer to manufacturer, and it seems impossible to get the actual method from them, some restrict throttle pedal position even though live data will show actual throttle position the ECM can chop this back, the methods are endless and details appear a guarded secret.

He has put me onto a Jag expert so I will speak to him before I get a replacement ECM, as he will be the guy that will code the ECM to the car.

I will update when I get further.

Thanks for the input guys