Engine oil - what grade do you use?
#1
11-10-2006, 04:49 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Engine oil - what grade do you use?
What grade of oil do you use in your X type?
I have a 2004.5MY 3.0 Auto built in April 2004.
I've been looking into the grades on the API website and comparing them with the manual. API reclassified the oil grades in 2004, and so although my manual states they recommend SL, you can buy SM in the shops. See the website:
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...f - 2006-11-08
Ford have a deal with BP, which is why the manual recommend Castrol Oils. Castrol GTX claims to exceed the specification (I use this in my motorbikes).
However, I've heard that some people recommending using only fully synthetic oil.
Any comments?
I have a 2004.5MY 3.0 Auto built in April 2004.
I've been looking into the grades on the API website and comparing them with the manual. API reclassified the oil grades in 2004, and so although my manual states they recommend SL, you can buy SM in the shops. See the website:
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...f - 2006-11-08
Ford have a deal with BP, which is why the manual recommend Castrol Oils. Castrol GTX claims to exceed the specification (I use this in my motorbikes).
However, I've heard that some people recommending using only fully synthetic oil.
Any comments?
#2
11-10-2006, 01:19 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
After the 1,500 Km break in period on any engine (must use petroleum based oil for break in) you should absolutly switch to a full synthetic.
In our 3 cars 97 VDP, 99 Acura Integra, 97 Ford Explorer 4.0L OHV.
We use Castrol Syntec 5w50 year round.
If you live in a hot climate such as california or flordia etc. you will see the most benefits from a 10w50
I live in a true 4 season climate (although sometimes it feels only like 2 seasons, summer and winter)
you should use either a 10w50 for summer and a 5w50 or 0w50 for winter, but for ease, 5w50 year round is perfect.
If you do not know what the numbers mean:
the first number is the weight of the oil or viscosity, 0 is thin, 5 is a little thicker, 10 is thicker still.
the second number is the lubricating power, most engine specs say they only need 30 for this, but 50 will not hurt,
infact it will be better for your engine for when you do decide to press the pedal to the floor and rev it high.
The more hp/torque and higher the rpm range of the engine, the more lubricating power you need,
the power is basically measure by how fast the engine is moving and how well the oil can still lubricate at that speed.
What you dont want is to exceed you oils performance, this will cause terrible damage to your engine and components.
with full synthetics it is still important to change you oil and oil filter on a regular basis,
i change mine in the Ford every 5,000km's or 3-4 months, whichever happens first.
The reason you need to change synthetic oils is because the particles begin to break down
(after a much longer period of time compared to conventional oil)
meaning that when they go through a moving part they split and fill the area,
then re-adhere to eachother, over and over and over.
when the oil starts to become old, it will not re-adhere as quickly and causes a loss in the performance of your oil.
Also the thickness o you oil has a large impact upon intial start up on a cold engine,
thus, the thicker the oil, the harder the engine works to make the initial turnover thats why a thinner oil is better for winter.
now you may be thinking, well why dont i just use a thin oil all year round if it helps the engine start up a little easier?
answer: if you use a thin oil in higher temperature weather (such as summer time),
you may actually not be getting the proper amount of oil on all the moving parts, (it wont coat them properly)
and this means you lose your lubricating power, your engine can seize up and will most likely blow some piston rings.
so use a 5w50 for year round (temp's -25C to 35C) and a 10w50 for climates (20C to 45C)
or just use a 0w50 for winter and a 5w50 or 10w50 for summer.
I have heard nothing but very good things from a company called "AMSOIL" oil products
I am a member on a ford explorer forum (explorerx.com) and they all swear by it,
and use it in the transfer case, diff's, engine, tranny, everywhere that needs oil/lubricating!
and this company also sells the filters to go along with it.
he only downside is you need to either find an authorized dealer that sells this product (this can be done through their website)
or you must become a preferred dealer yourself (only worthwhile if you own more than 1 vehicle)
when you become a preferred dealer you can place orders for any product they sell and dont have to pay the middle man.
Hope this has been helpful!!!
In our 3 cars 97 VDP, 99 Acura Integra, 97 Ford Explorer 4.0L OHV.
We use Castrol Syntec 5w50 year round.
If you live in a hot climate such as california or flordia etc. you will see the most benefits from a 10w50
I live in a true 4 season climate (although sometimes it feels only like 2 seasons, summer and winter)
you should use either a 10w50 for summer and a 5w50 or 0w50 for winter, but for ease, 5w50 year round is perfect.
If you do not know what the numbers mean:
the first number is the weight of the oil or viscosity, 0 is thin, 5 is a little thicker, 10 is thicker still.
the second number is the lubricating power, most engine specs say they only need 30 for this, but 50 will not hurt,
infact it will be better for your engine for when you do decide to press the pedal to the floor and rev it high.
The more hp/torque and higher the rpm range of the engine, the more lubricating power you need,
the power is basically measure by how fast the engine is moving and how well the oil can still lubricate at that speed.
What you dont want is to exceed you oils performance, this will cause terrible damage to your engine and components.
with full synthetics it is still important to change you oil and oil filter on a regular basis,
i change mine in the Ford every 5,000km's or 3-4 months, whichever happens first.
The reason you need to change synthetic oils is because the particles begin to break down
(after a much longer period of time compared to conventional oil)
meaning that when they go through a moving part they split and fill the area,
then re-adhere to eachother, over and over and over.
when the oil starts to become old, it will not re-adhere as quickly and causes a loss in the performance of your oil.
Also the thickness o you oil has a large impact upon intial start up on a cold engine,
thus, the thicker the oil, the harder the engine works to make the initial turnover thats why a thinner oil is better for winter.
now you may be thinking, well why dont i just use a thin oil all year round if it helps the engine start up a little easier?
answer: if you use a thin oil in higher temperature weather (such as summer time),
you may actually not be getting the proper amount of oil on all the moving parts, (it wont coat them properly)
and this means you lose your lubricating power, your engine can seize up and will most likely blow some piston rings.
so use a 5w50 for year round (temp's -25C to 35C) and a 10w50 for climates (20C to 45C)
or just use a 0w50 for winter and a 5w50 or 10w50 for summer.
I have heard nothing but very good things from a company called "AMSOIL" oil products
I am a member on a ford explorer forum (explorerx.com) and they all swear by it,
and use it in the transfer case, diff's, engine, tranny, everywhere that needs oil/lubricating!
and this company also sells the filters to go along with it.
he only downside is you need to either find an authorized dealer that sells this product (this can be done through their website)
or you must become a preferred dealer yourself (only worthwhile if you own more than 1 vehicle)
when you become a preferred dealer you can place orders for any product they sell and dont have to pay the middle man.
Hope this has been helpful!!!
#3
11-10-2006, 02:17 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Thanks - the information was interesting. I live in Troy Michigan (not so far from you I suspect) and so am looking forwards to the colder season. I posted the same question on a UK site and got this very interesting link about a guy in Colorado who seems intent on maximising his engine output:
http://3litermotorproject.blogspot.c...al-fluids.html
The link provided leads to a blog and within it is another link to a Russian pdf file of the Jaguar specification, which indicates that synthetics to SL level are allowed / recommended by Jaguar. The pdf was from a 2003 Jaguar specification manual.
So it looks as if I'll have to hunt down equivalent post - 2004 information to see what Jaguar recommend now that the API have upgraded to SM.
My local Jag dealer only uses regular 5W30. When I take the car in (under the free servicing scheme), I think I'll decide what they're going to use.....
Incidentally I am a big fan of synthetics, not only because of the reasons that you mention, but because the chemistry of the underlying oil is so much more consistant. This means that the additive package can be better controlled (its not a "catch all" bundle of chemicals designed to overcome the natural variation of the base oils), and so the oil stays at a high performance state for longer between changes (i.e TBN, TAN and VI improver stability) - exactly one of your points.
To be honest I'm sceptical about the posted oil change intervals in America - identical engines in Europe have less frequent change intervals (many are at 10,000 miles or more these days). But I've no objective comparison about the quality of oils available on the market between Europe and the US, or the impact of the lower grade fuels over here has on oil chemistry.
Thanks for your feedback.
http://3litermotorproject.blogspot.c...al-fluids.html
The link provided leads to a blog and within it is another link to a Russian pdf file of the Jaguar specification, which indicates that synthetics to SL level are allowed / recommended by Jaguar. The pdf was from a 2003 Jaguar specification manual.
So it looks as if I'll have to hunt down equivalent post - 2004 information to see what Jaguar recommend now that the API have upgraded to SM.
My local Jag dealer only uses regular 5W30. When I take the car in (under the free servicing scheme), I think I'll decide what they're going to use.....
Incidentally I am a big fan of synthetics, not only because of the reasons that you mention, but because the chemistry of the underlying oil is so much more consistant. This means that the additive package can be better controlled (its not a "catch all" bundle of chemicals designed to overcome the natural variation of the base oils), and so the oil stays at a high performance state for longer between changes (i.e TBN, TAN and VI improver stability) - exactly one of your points.
To be honest I'm sceptical about the posted oil change intervals in America - identical engines in Europe have less frequent change intervals (many are at 10,000 miles or more these days). But I've no objective comparison about the quality of oils available on the market between Europe and the US, or the impact of the lower grade fuels over here has on oil chemistry.
Thanks for your feedback.
#4
11-10-2006, 07:07 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
i look at it as cheap preventative work. i have changed my oil like clockwork every 3k on every car i have ever owned, and i do it myself (once a vehicle is out of warranty). this 5k per change thing doesn't sit right with me, but that is just personal. i even stopped at the dealer after 3k miles to have them check all the fluids for me out of paranoia.
ya i know, people will post that this oil is good, that is bad; 3k miles is too soon, 5k is too late; etc etc etc. my jag is not my everyday driver, it is my fun car. i don't mind dropping a little extra cash for 'sooner than needed' oil changes. if i was worried about the cost of repairs and upkeep i would have bought a ford focus
ya i know, people will post that this oil is good, that is bad; 3k miles is too soon, 5k is too late; etc etc etc. my jag is not my everyday driver, it is my fun car. i don't mind dropping a little extra cash for 'sooner than needed' oil changes. if i was worried about the cost of repairs and upkeep i would have bought a ford focus
#5
11-10-2006, 11:54 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
The number one reason for oil changes is to prevent the formation of sludge. It's important to understand how sludge forms and how sludge formation is prevented. Period.
Additive in the detergent oils 'wash' any contaminant particles off of internal engine parts and hold these particles in suspension until the oil is changed. It's important to understand that these particles are too small to cause engine wear, but they do turn the oil a darker color. The key thing is to change the oil before the oil becomes too saturated with contaminants to hold any more, but color is not an indication of this condition.
Boils down to Money...
Unfortunately, there are market forces that have a vested interest in convincing vehicle owners to change their oil more often than necessary. The legal prey of these market forces have become convinced that they are purchasing "cheap insurance" or "peace of mind" by changing their oil more often than necessary. Complicating things is the fact that doing oil changes is one of the few do-it-yourself maintenance tasks that is still within the ability of the backyard mechanic to perform.
Recreational Oil Changing
The term "recreational oil changer" was coined to define people that change their oil far more than necessary because they actually enjoy doing it. It's easy to understand the psychology behind the recreational oil changing. It's the visceral feel of the tools, the victory when that old oil filter breaks free, the hot dirty oil pouring out, the joy of oiling of the gasket on the new filter, that new copper or fiber gasket on the drain plug, the clean clear oil going in, and the sense of accomplishment when you start the car, the oil light comes on for a moment, then goes out. For $8-10 in oil and parts, it's pretty cheap entertainment, but if people would be content to do it only when it provides some benefit to the vehicle it would be better.
The 3000 Mile Myth
The 3000 mile oil change interval has been pounded into people's heads for decades. It had a scientific basis when engines used non-multi-weight, non-detergent oil. It no longer has any scientific basis, but it is still being promoted by certain entities, most notably the oil change industry in the United States. This myth is also sometimes known as the "Cheap Insurance Myth."
The 3000 Mile Fact
There are still vehicles that need 3K oil changes, but it's not because the oil goes bad after 3K miles. One example is the Saturn S series. These vehicles have a timing chain system that is very sensitive to clean oil because oil pressure is used as hydraulic fluid to ratchet up the timing chain tensioner. If varnish forms in the timing chain tensioner bore then this system can fail and the chain will become loose and eventually break. Dealers have gone as far as tearing out the normal service schedule (6000 miles) and leaving only the severe service schedule. If your engine is destroyed (under warranty) by a failed timing chain then the dealer will legitimately request evidence of oil changes. Unfortunately this problem usually won't manifest itself during the warranty period.
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
Stick to the castrol gtx 5w-30 and you'll be fine.
________
Zx14 Vs Hayabusa
Additive in the detergent oils 'wash' any contaminant particles off of internal engine parts and hold these particles in suspension until the oil is changed. It's important to understand that these particles are too small to cause engine wear, but they do turn the oil a darker color. The key thing is to change the oil before the oil becomes too saturated with contaminants to hold any more, but color is not an indication of this condition.
Boils down to Money...
Unfortunately, there are market forces that have a vested interest in convincing vehicle owners to change their oil more often than necessary. The legal prey of these market forces have become convinced that they are purchasing "cheap insurance" or "peace of mind" by changing their oil more often than necessary. Complicating things is the fact that doing oil changes is one of the few do-it-yourself maintenance tasks that is still within the ability of the backyard mechanic to perform.
Recreational Oil Changing
The term "recreational oil changer" was coined to define people that change their oil far more than necessary because they actually enjoy doing it. It's easy to understand the psychology behind the recreational oil changing. It's the visceral feel of the tools, the victory when that old oil filter breaks free, the hot dirty oil pouring out, the joy of oiling of the gasket on the new filter, that new copper or fiber gasket on the drain plug, the clean clear oil going in, and the sense of accomplishment when you start the car, the oil light comes on for a moment, then goes out. For $8-10 in oil and parts, it's pretty cheap entertainment, but if people would be content to do it only when it provides some benefit to the vehicle it would be better.
The 3000 Mile Myth
The 3000 mile oil change interval has been pounded into people's heads for decades. It had a scientific basis when engines used non-multi-weight, non-detergent oil. It no longer has any scientific basis, but it is still being promoted by certain entities, most notably the oil change industry in the United States. This myth is also sometimes known as the "Cheap Insurance Myth."
The 3000 Mile Fact
There are still vehicles that need 3K oil changes, but it's not because the oil goes bad after 3K miles. One example is the Saturn S series. These vehicles have a timing chain system that is very sensitive to clean oil because oil pressure is used as hydraulic fluid to ratchet up the timing chain tensioner. If varnish forms in the timing chain tensioner bore then this system can fail and the chain will become loose and eventually break. Dealers have gone as far as tearing out the normal service schedule (6000 miles) and leaving only the severe service schedule. If your engine is destroyed (under warranty) by a failed timing chain then the dealer will legitimately request evidence of oil changes. Unfortunately this problem usually won't manifest itself during the warranty period.
The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.
The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S.
Stick to the castrol gtx 5w-30 and you'll be fine.
________
Zx14 Vs Hayabusa
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:43 AM.
#6
11-10-2006, 11:56 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Problems that can be prevented:
Quick-Lube (and dealer) Problems to Watch Out For
1. SAE30 oil. Some quick-lube places have been known to offer advertised specials that use SAE 30 oil, as opposed to 5W30 or 10W30. Pay the extra for the proper oil, or better yet avoid merchants that try to pull this kind of thing because it's an indicator that they are less than honest.
2. Trying to use the wrong oil because it's what they have in bulk. Insist on the oil that is specified on your filler cap and in your manual.
3. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole instead of removing the drain plug. I came across this gem when I asked if I needed to bring my own copper drain plug gasket. They said that they didn't remove the drain plug to drain the old oil. This was the Oil Changer location at Kifer & Wolfe in Sunnyvale, California. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole is a terrible way to get the old oil out because it leaves a lot of junk in the bottom of the oil pan. This was a long time ago and maybe they've changed their ways since then.
4. Selling unneeded and overpriced services such as engine flushes.
5. Selling overpriced, and often low quality, parts such as wiper blades and washer fluid, PCV valves, thermostats, etc. Never let a quick-lube place do any mechanical work on your vehicle.. They do no use journeyman mechanics.
6. Using poor quality filters. You really want to bring your own filter, from the dealer, with you when you go to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or $2 off the price if you do this but don't count on it.
7. If you have a vehicle that actually still has Zerk fittings to lubricate then be sure that they actually lubricate these fitting. Most cars no longer require lubrication but some trucks still do.
8. Do not let a quick-lube place change or add any fluids other than oil. No transmission fluid, no brake fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze, no oil additives, no fuel additives. It is just too easy for them to use the wrong fluid and cause permanent damage to your vehicle.
________
Avandia Lawsuits
Quick-Lube (and dealer) Problems to Watch Out For
1. SAE30 oil. Some quick-lube places have been known to offer advertised specials that use SAE 30 oil, as opposed to 5W30 or 10W30. Pay the extra for the proper oil, or better yet avoid merchants that try to pull this kind of thing because it's an indicator that they are less than honest.
2. Trying to use the wrong oil because it's what they have in bulk. Insist on the oil that is specified on your filler cap and in your manual.
3. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole instead of removing the drain plug. I came across this gem when I asked if I needed to bring my own copper drain plug gasket. They said that they didn't remove the drain plug to drain the old oil. This was the Oil Changer location at Kifer & Wolfe in Sunnyvale, California. Pumping the oil out through the dipstick hole is a terrible way to get the old oil out because it leaves a lot of junk in the bottom of the oil pan. This was a long time ago and maybe they've changed their ways since then.
4. Selling unneeded and overpriced services such as engine flushes.
5. Selling overpriced, and often low quality, parts such as wiper blades and washer fluid, PCV valves, thermostats, etc. Never let a quick-lube place do any mechanical work on your vehicle.. They do no use journeyman mechanics.
6. Using poor quality filters. You really want to bring your own filter, from the dealer, with you when you go to a quick-lube place. They may take $1 or $2 off the price if you do this but don't count on it.
7. If you have a vehicle that actually still has Zerk fittings to lubricate then be sure that they actually lubricate these fitting. Most cars no longer require lubrication but some trucks still do.
8. Do not let a quick-lube place change or add any fluids other than oil. No transmission fluid, no brake fluid, no power steering fluid, no antifreeze, no oil additives, no fuel additives. It is just too easy for them to use the wrong fluid and cause permanent damage to your vehicle.
________
Avandia Lawsuits
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:44 AM.
#7
11-11-2006, 12:00 AM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
20 years...and all I have to say is this:
Which Oil to Use
Detergent Oil
Virtually all modern multi-weight oils are detergent oils. Detergent oil, cleans the soot of the internal engine parts and suspends the soot particles in the oil. The particles are too small to be trapped by the oil filter and stay in the oil until you change it. These particles are what makes the oil turn darker. These tiny particles do not harm your engine. When the oil becomes saturated with soot particles and is unable to suspend any more, the particles remain on the engine parts. Fortunately, with the current oil change intervals the oil is changed long before the oil is saturated.
Non-detergent oil, such as SAE 30, is not used in modern passenger vehicle engines. It is still used in some gasoline engines such as lawnmowers.
Oil Viscosity
The viscosity of multi-weight motor oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. This is followed by the letter W (which stands for winter, not weight), which is followed by the number that indicates the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The higher the number the thicker the oil.
Viscosity Modifiers
In order to protect an engine at start time, the oil needs to be thinner when cold so it flows freely. Viscosity modifiers are added to the base stock to make the oil flow better when cold, without making the oil too thin when hot.
Climate Considerations
Owner's manuals and service manuals will specify the acceptable oil to use at various temperatures. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects. In the olden days, before multi-weight oils, it was common to have a winter oil and a summer oil. This is no longer necessary, but if you normally use 10W30 because you live in a warm climate then be sure to switch to 5W30 if you plan on using the vehicle in very cold weather.
5W30 versus 10W30
Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.
Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?
Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.
Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?
According to www.cartalk.com (see link in the references section), as well as many mechanics who have posted on usenet, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. The advice that Tom & Ray give is correct, 'it would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.'
Thicker is Better Myth
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase. In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.
________
ASIAN GIRL
Which Oil to Use
Detergent Oil
Virtually all modern multi-weight oils are detergent oils. Detergent oil, cleans the soot of the internal engine parts and suspends the soot particles in the oil. The particles are too small to be trapped by the oil filter and stay in the oil until you change it. These particles are what makes the oil turn darker. These tiny particles do not harm your engine. When the oil becomes saturated with soot particles and is unable to suspend any more, the particles remain on the engine parts. Fortunately, with the current oil change intervals the oil is changed long before the oil is saturated.
Non-detergent oil, such as SAE 30, is not used in modern passenger vehicle engines. It is still used in some gasoline engines such as lawnmowers.
Oil Viscosity
The viscosity of multi-weight motor oil is specified using two numbers. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. This is followed by the letter W (which stands for winter, not weight), which is followed by the number that indicates the viscosity when the oil is at operating temperature. The higher the number the thicker the oil.
Viscosity Modifiers
In order to protect an engine at start time, the oil needs to be thinner when cold so it flows freely. Viscosity modifiers are added to the base stock to make the oil flow better when cold, without making the oil too thin when hot.
Climate Considerations
Owner's manuals and service manuals will specify the acceptable oil to use at various temperatures. In warm climates, 10W30 is usually an acceptable alternative to the preferred 5W30 and may be used without measurable adverse effects. In the olden days, before multi-weight oils, it was common to have a winter oil and a summer oil. This is no longer necessary, but if you normally use 10W30 because you live in a warm climate then be sure to switch to 5W30 if you plan on using the vehicle in very cold weather.
5W30 versus 10W30
Virtually all new passenger vehicles sold in the U.S. use either 5W30 or 10W30 oil. The difference between the two is that the 5W30 flows better when cold, so if you live in a cold climate or operate your vehicle in a cold climate during the winter months, you should use 5W30 if it is the preferred oil for your vehicle. If you live in a sub-tropical climate and don't operate your vehicle in cold climates, then 10W30 is acceptable as long as the manufacturer specifies that it is permissible to use it.
Is there a disadvantage to using an oil that flows better when cold, i.e. 5W30 versus 10W30?
Sometimes, but usually not. The crux of the issue is this: the bigger the difference between the cold oil viscosity and the hot oil viscosity, the more the volume of viscosity modifiers and the less the volume of base stock. If you are good about following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval then stick with the 5W30 if that is the preferred oil for your vehicle, even if 10W30 is acceptable in warmer climates. Older cars may specify 10W30 only. This is because they need a little more viscosity when cold to keep a protective film on the cylinder walls. There have been instances where the larger amount of viscosity modifiers that are present in 5W30 have broken down due to excessive heat and have left carbon deposits on the valves, but this is extremely rare. The proper fix would be to reduce the excessive heat, but the workaround was to use an oil with less viscosity modifiers.
Why do many oil change places, even dealerships, use 10W30 instead of 5W30, even when 5W30 is preferred?
According to www.cartalk.com (see link in the references section), as well as many mechanics who have posted on usenet, 10W30 is the closest thing to a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Since many garages don't want to have multiple tanks of bulk oil they choose to carry only 10W30. The advice that Tom & Ray give is correct, 'it would not be a disaster if you used 10W30, but given a choice, go with the manufacturer's recommendation and use the 5W30.'
Thicker is Better Myth
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase. In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.
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ASIAN GIRL
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:44 AM.
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#8
11-11-2006, 11:11 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Interesting stuff - I really appreciate the knowledge out there.
On the AMSOIL website, Castrol GTX came out really well in the comparison tests, considering that it is a "regular oil" up against synthetics at 4x the price.
Here's some more stuff from the UK responses:
Go to the Castrol website at Which oil for your car? and enter your car details for which oil is recommended for your car.Use 5w30 in mine as per that site and dealers. (I hope the link came out).
************************************************** ************************************************** **********
5w30 Semi synthetic is the stuff to use in all current Jags. (from a Jaguar Master Technician)
************************************************** ************************************************** **********
Castrol does not make a "true" full synrthetic oil yet. It's good stuff and wont varnish your engine or carmaelize on the camhaft lobes like say, Quaker State, but it doesn't have the longevity of Mobil1. The last I looked into it, Castrol GTX is actually a modified crude-oil based substance while Mobil1 is Soybeans. I dont know how accurate that is, but I do know that Mobil1 is good stuff. Not for all applications, but for the X, I'd use it if the Castrol GTX I use wasn't almost free!
Also a reccomendation: use the Mobil1 oil filter when using Mobil1 synth oil. It's rated for more miles to withstand higher service intervals.
Just an interesting fact: Porsche's new service intervals are 2 years/20,000 miles with the use of factory filters and Mobil1 full synth. Wow!
(from a Porsche Technician)
On the AMSOIL website, Castrol GTX came out really well in the comparison tests, considering that it is a "regular oil" up against synthetics at 4x the price.
Here's some more stuff from the UK responses:
Go to the Castrol website at Which oil for your car? and enter your car details for which oil is recommended for your car.Use 5w30 in mine as per that site and dealers. (I hope the link came out).
************************************************** ************************************************** **********
5w30 Semi synthetic is the stuff to use in all current Jags. (from a Jaguar Master Technician)
************************************************** ************************************************** **********
Castrol does not make a "true" full synrthetic oil yet. It's good stuff and wont varnish your engine or carmaelize on the camhaft lobes like say, Quaker State, but it doesn't have the longevity of Mobil1. The last I looked into it, Castrol GTX is actually a modified crude-oil based substance while Mobil1 is Soybeans. I dont know how accurate that is, but I do know that Mobil1 is good stuff. Not for all applications, but for the X, I'd use it if the Castrol GTX I use wasn't almost free!
Also a reccomendation: use the Mobil1 oil filter when using Mobil1 synth oil. It's rated for more miles to withstand higher service intervals.
Just an interesting fact: Porsche's new service intervals are 2 years/20,000 miles with the use of factory filters and Mobil1 full synth. Wow!
(from a Porsche Technician)
#10
11-12-2006, 08:28 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
#11
11-12-2006, 01:05 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
lol, I wasn't searching for anything, I was just wondering if you all came to some sort of agreement.
I've been a loyal user of castrol GTX for over 20 years. No reason to switch now that I own a jag. I still do my own oil changes and Jag recommends the oil changed every 10K, which I don't stick too. I'm under the old school of every 3K, but in the last few years I change it a 6 now.
1973 v-8 350 Monte Carlo- 175K miles
1980 v-8 350 Z-28 -230K (all original)
1980 v-6 231 Buick regal 145K
(Just a few of my toys that lasted me this long)
I suppose it boils down to what you like and believe in. To me, it's preventive maintenance with regular oil changes, no matter what oil you use.
Peace out
________
Lovely Wendie99
I've been a loyal user of castrol GTX for over 20 years. No reason to switch now that I own a jag. I still do my own oil changes and Jag recommends the oil changed every 10K, which I don't stick too. I'm under the old school of every 3K, but in the last few years I change it a 6 now.
1973 v-8 350 Monte Carlo- 175K miles
1980 v-8 350 Z-28 -230K (all original)
1980 v-6 231 Buick regal 145K
(Just a few of my toys that lasted me this long)
I suppose it boils down to what you like and believe in. To me, it's preventive maintenance with regular oil changes, no matter what oil you use.
Peace out
________
Lovely Wendie99
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:48 AM.
#12
11-12-2006, 02:57 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Well - I agree, there is no single answer to my original question. However these are my conclusions:
Everyone seems to agree that 5W30 is the correct grade, as per Jaguar's recommendation (i.e no surprise).
The dealership / mechanic inputs seem to favour normal oil or semi-synthetics, implying there is no reason to spend the extra money on full synthetics. But there are fans of all types.
Regular oil change preferences vary from 3000 to 25000 (the claim on the AMSOIL website).
If anyone is interested, here is my conclusion and decision.
At the moment I'm fortunate enough to have a low mileage car (only 10,000 miles and still under warranty). So I will insist that a full synthetic is used at the service if I am allowed to. Then I will evaluate the performance of the oil subjectively initially and see if there is a change in fuel consumption (as some people claim, although the engine really isn't old enough yet to show anything I suspect).
I use GTX in my motorbikes and have always though of it as a good product (British Oil Engineering at its best). I will use this if I'm not allowed to use the synthetics, but will change it at 5000 miles (i.e half way between the warranty service intervals).
As an aside there is a mail in coupon on the Castrol website at the moment to get money off engine oil change service until 31 Dec 2006.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/promo...tentId=7023738
Cheers, Graham
Everyone seems to agree that 5W30 is the correct grade, as per Jaguar's recommendation (i.e no surprise).
The dealership / mechanic inputs seem to favour normal oil or semi-synthetics, implying there is no reason to spend the extra money on full synthetics. But there are fans of all types.
Regular oil change preferences vary from 3000 to 25000 (the claim on the AMSOIL website).
If anyone is interested, here is my conclusion and decision.
At the moment I'm fortunate enough to have a low mileage car (only 10,000 miles and still under warranty). So I will insist that a full synthetic is used at the service if I am allowed to. Then I will evaluate the performance of the oil subjectively initially and see if there is a change in fuel consumption (as some people claim, although the engine really isn't old enough yet to show anything I suspect).
I use GTX in my motorbikes and have always though of it as a good product (British Oil Engineering at its best). I will use this if I'm not allowed to use the synthetics, but will change it at 5000 miles (i.e half way between the warranty service intervals).
As an aside there is a mail in coupon on the Castrol website at the moment to get money off engine oil change service until 31 Dec 2006.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/promo...tentId=7023738
Cheers, Graham
#13
11-12-2006, 03:03 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Nice...good info all the way round...thanks for the coupon too..I was just heading out to buy another case...
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Mature live
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Mature live
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:49 AM.
#15
11-13-2006, 07:57 AM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Yeah, I read it..no can do...you're right...but nice offer..thanks
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PRILOSEC SETTLEMENT UPDATE
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PRILOSEC SETTLEMENT UPDATE
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:50 AM.
#16
11-14-2006, 01:25 AM
Senior Member
#19
11-14-2006, 04:38 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
ORIGINAL: BuckMR2
......Transmission (fluid) is sealed for life.
......Transmission (fluid) is sealed for life.
Thanks for the info!
#20
11-14-2006, 06:36 PM
RE: Engine oil - what grade do you use?
Yes, there is a way to change the fluid...it's very specific and you will need the jag scanner to reset the computer after changing the trans fluid. make sure your friend only used JAg's transmission fluid. Any other type of trans fluid will cause permanent damge.
2K to replace place labor.
Good luck
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Granny Cams
2K to replace place labor.
Good luck
________
Granny Cams
Last edited by racerx82; 05-17-2011 at 07:51 AM.