With the cold weather here in the 40's plus she starts out no lights and runs day one new. After she warm up gear box fault comes on.

2006 Jaguar X type 3.0 L125k miles
New battery cables
New battery always on tender and North of 12.5 volts
Replaced alternator a few years ago
Early 2025 did the big three, tune up and injector cleaner on bench top tool

Car made three flawless trips up the East Coast from FL to NH.
Ac compressor failed, so I installed a new one and 100 miles later a gear box fault started.

Now I get the gear box fault, ABS, DCS Brake fault.
As fall came on and temps dropped down to the 60s then as low as 20 the onset changed. Now when I start in the morning when temp is below 60, there are no lights on, until i go about 10 miles. If i just start the car, and don't move the car one inch, but let it warm up then it will come on in 20-30 minutes.

Last trip out all the lights were on as we ran errands for the night, then the throttle pedal stopped responding, and the car in drive or reverse, would just hang at 2000 rpm. Next morning all was fine again.

Here are the error codes after the throttle would only work at 2000 rpm.

1.CAN Communications Bus Fault
2.Evaporative Emission Control System Control Valve Circuit Shorted
3.CAN Link Engine Control Module/ABS Control Module Circuit/network Malfunction
4.Flight Recorder Data Is Stored
5.Random Misfire Detected 6.Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected 7.Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected 8.Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected 9.Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected 10.Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected11.Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
12.Misfire Rate Excess Emissions
13.Throttle Actuator Control Motor Current Range/performance ONLY SHOWED AFTER THE 2000 RPM ERROR
14.System Check Not Completed Since Last Memory Clear
15.Battery Voltage Out Of Range
16.Rear Right Corner Sensor - Circuit Failure
17.Control Module Configuration Failure
18.Throttle Angle Error
19.CAN Transmission Control Module/ABS Control Module Circuit Malfunction

U 1900 CAN COMMUNICATION BUS FAULT
P0445 eVAP EMMISION CONTROL I AMNOT WORRIED ABOUT THIS AS I KNOW FAULT
P1637 CAN LINK ENGINE CONTROL MODULE ABS CONTROL MODULE CIRCUIT NETWORK MALFUNCTION'
P0301-06
P1316 MISFIRE RATE EXCESS EMMISION
P2118 THROTTLE ACTUATOR CONTROL MOTOR C URRENT RANGE PERFORMANCE
B1676 bATTERY VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE
P1573 THROTTLE ANGLE ERROR just showed up after the car went into second 2000 rpm limp mode.

Any and all help is appreciated.
Ron

 

I once had an issue, where I did not want to believe that it is a low battery issue, but it was.
Try at least the following: Use a battery charger on your battery before you drive & see if it improves things.
Take voltage measurements on the battery (with engine off before starting the car, and then again directly after stopping the car (some time later)). The idea if that is to see, if by any chance the voltage is lower when you stop again - instead of higher - because this means that you have an alternator issue (maybe just a bad connection to ground).

Another idea I am having is, if you may be low on ATF, but checking that is tricky, as I do not think much of the official method (car jacked up level and open the check bolt UNDER the car (close to where the gear select cable gets into the transmission) with the engine running and it should drip a bit.

 

with that many stored codes i would reset the ecu and see which current codes come back.
you appear to have a life times worth of never cleared codes there but thats a good place to start and probably what thermo would suggest 😉
as peter suggests, batteries often cause a plethora of codes.... how new is yours?

 

I have to agree with the others in I would first start with getting a load check of the battery and if it reads less than 75% of capacity, get it replaced. From there, I would be looking at the connections to the battery and just because the cables are newer, does not mean that they cannot be faulty. After that, I would be looking at the cable bundles on the firewall/to the ECU as you may have a damaged bundle that gets moved around a little bit after the car warms up, leading to the random problems you are seeing.

 

Hi Guys and thanks for jumping in!

The Alternator is a new one from Advanced that was installed two years ago for a charging light coming on. The actual problem back then was the ground cable that actually reached a temp of 202 degrees. The positive was sitting around 120 for comparison, so i made a few more ground cables and changed out the factory one.

The battery is about 1.5 years old, (i bought the most expensive battery i could find. a big die hard at a cost of $215.) and sits above 12.5 volts overnight. I also made an adapter to go into the cigarette lighter to monitor charging while driving. From what i remember it charges between 13 and 15 volts as you run errands during the day. I've also left the OBDII on to monitor the charging through that. I've also left the battery tender on it overnight just to boost the battery just incase.

I did install a new air conditioning compressor 100 miles or so before this all started. Could I have knocked something loose?

I have tried plugging in two separate TCU but have not used an obdII to synch them.

I drained around 3 quarts of transmission fluid out and installed the 2.5 that is recommended. I think those were the numbers.

At this point I have done the reset by zip tying the positive and negative cables together overnight at least 5 times, plus multiple OBDII resets. When the car was displaying the gear box fault and assorted DCS and ABS, the only codes I was getting was the can bus, TCM and EVAP which i caused intentionally. When the car kicked into the idle at 2000 rpm limp mode, that is when all of the misfire and throttle angle and throttle actuator errors kicked in.

I will get it over to have a load test done, just incase there is a weird one off thing with the battery.

Any other ideas?

I appreciate the help, and think it is insane how some of these replies are coming from countries around the world.

Ron

 

there is a large collection of nutters all around the world 🤪

 

Ronks, part of what you may be experiencing is not that the battery is incapable of starting the car, but rather the voltage drops too low right before the engine catches and that sets a lot of erroneous things into the computers which may not show up until the car reaches temperature as the car will ignore some things until it is at temperature. hence why I say to get the load test done. This will rule out this effect. A question that I have is when you are starting the car, does the engine roll for just a split second then catch, or do you need to hold the key for a few seconds before it catches? I have found that as the battery gets weaker, the engine requires more time rolling before it will catch. A new battery, you barely get the key to the START position and it has kicked the engine over and it is started. If you puhs a battery to low state of capacity, you will notice it will take seconds before the motor catches.

Based on your error codes that you originally list, you have a very wide assortment of things. This can be caused by the computer(s) setting erroneous initial parameters as the motor starts. From there, yes, the computers will see the engine running "wrong" because of the erroneous initial data.

One check that you can do is to get your hands on an ANALOG multimeter (ie, one with an actual needle on a scale). A digital multimeter will not give you the detail you need. You will need a second person for this check. But, use the multimeter to measure the battery terminals (not the battery posts) and watch the meter as you start the car. What you should see is the meter up at 12.6 VDC as you connect the multimeter. Then as you get the engine to be turned by the starter, you should see the multimeter drop to around 11.0 to 11.5 VDC. Then as the motor catches, the multimeter will jump up to near 15 VDC, hang there for a moment of time (this varies, may be 15 seconds, may be a few minutes, all depends on the state of charge on the battery, but the longer, the more likely you need to replace the battery). Once the "starting drain" has been replaced as figured out by the ECU, you will notice the voltage slowly ramp down to 13.7 VDC where it should stay. If you see the multimeter drop to say 10 VDC as the motor is being turned by the starter, then you have proven either bad cables or a bad battery. This is where you can repeat the test, just using the battery posts, not the terminals. If you get better voltages, then that proves bad cables. They stay the same, you have a bad battery. Kinda like if you don't see the voltage jumping up after the motor catches, this could indicate you have the wrong alternator in the car (yes, I know you have had this alternator for a year or so, it may have taken this long to finally show up or for it to cause something to fail).

Let me know what you find out. We can get you taken care of.

 

thermo... i seem to remember years ago one or 2 members had similar issues which turned out to be a bad battery cable, i seem to remember both ground and positive cables caused them with x types to overheat the cables

 

iownme, yes, the battery cables have been the root of so many problems. hence why with these "random code" problems, I say to start with the battery and cables. Fairly cheap and has a high chance of fixing the issues. But ,I also like to have a bit of proof before just saying "replace XXXXXXX and all will be good". Lets get a hot terminal. Lets see the voltage drop below what it should. Give me something to go "we are on the correct path".

 

just to be clear, i too, wasnt suggesting just replacing them, i might have been clearer by suggesting ronks2
does a forum search for issues cured by cable replacement, as we know, the more one can read.... the more one can get confuzzzed 😂😂
i also seem to remember a thread about checking the temp of the cables with a thermal gun and that pinpointed the problem.
but im 10 years older and stupider now🤪

 

iownme, but atleast you are an old dog that is willing to relearn some of their old tricks. I would hate to think about how much I have forgotten about the X-Type not having one to play with all the time. Some of us are just much older dogs. LMAO.

 

Hey guys, thanks for jumping in again.

Sorry if this is a repost, but i could not see my previous reply.

The car is at my work site, and I will not get there for a few days, before I can apply what you have suggested.

The car is on a battery tender so it should start fine.

I will get the car or battery in for a load test.

The car does start up like she is day one new.

I do have an analog tester adn will get her done.

I have no faith in anything new, so the new alternator I have no problem checking. On my short list is to pull the ac compressor and reinstall my old alternator.

I have a good truck battery on a tender. What are your thoughts to running jumpers from that battery to the one in the car in tandem?

I am going to pull and clean the TPS.

I also picked up a used gas pedal, is that a quick swap or do i need to get into the ECM to program it.

Thanks again,
Ron

 

Ronks, I would save the gas pedal for way down the list of other stuff to do. I think your bigger issue is the CAN bus issue. That may be the source of all your issues as this is feeding data back and forth between the ECU and the ABS unit. This may be feeding bad info to the ECU resulting in misfires. This is where determining a bad module may solve a lot of issues. Granted, having low battery voltage can also cause the CAN bus to go goofey (you need a minimum voltage to make the computer see a high value (a digital "1"), otherwise, the computer only sees a low value (digital "0") and some value that is not a 1 or 0, therefore does not know what to do with it (ie, error).

As for what to do, this is my thought process:

1) disconnect the car from any power source and let set for 30 minutes (battery stabilization)
2) verify that the battery is up at 12.6 VDC (ensure all doors are shut and all electronics are turned off), but even seeing 12.5 VDC is telling me that your battery has issues or there is an electrical load that is on and is draining the battery when it shouldn't be (that is its own separate issue).
3) start the car using my post above and verify that you have good voltages. Verify that the voltage at the battery remains at/above 13.7 VDC with the engine running. If it won't, then you are looking at either a battery cable issue or an alternator issue.
4) now turn on the headlights/seat heaters, rear window defroster, and dash fan on high. Does your battery voltage remain at/above 13.7 VC? Should. If not, then you have a problem with the alternator not getting the correct signal or a battery cable issue.
5) restore the car back to running bare essentials.
6) figure out the CAN bus issue. Most likely an issue with the wiring right at the plug at the ECU or at the ABS module. If you need specific pin numbers, let me know. I can even send you the diagrams if you need them (PM me your email addy).
7) With the CAN bus issue resolved, clear codes and see what comes back.

The U1900 code I would ignore as every car I have ever seen has that locked in if you are going through the dash to obtain. If you are using a code reader to obtain that code, then I would put some concern to it as that would be abnormal.

 

Ronks2, yes, battery is still a high probability candidate, as I posted already above in post #2.

But more or less unrelated to your error codes, I was wondering about you comment above:
> I drained around 3 quarts of transmission fluid out and installed the 2.5 that is recommended. I think those were the numbers.
3 quart are 3.4 liters. Where is that coming from, and why would you put in less than you drained?

 

Hey guys, thanks for hanging in.

Real quick on the transmission fluid. This is the first service I have done on it, so I bounced around the pages on the site, and found what should come out for an amount, and go back in as well. Where I was getting the fault codes, and there was to much fluid in the transmission, i put back in the amount that was recommended, but that didn't resolve the problem. I will try and find the numbers again to post. The transmission functioned flawlessly with both amounts in it.

I am now in NH with the car. I have had it on a battery tender for the month that I was gone, so I pulled it and checked the battery the next day and she was sitting north of 12.6 in 20 degree weather. The last two days we have been iced in do to a storm that shut down the highway and made the driveway a skating rink. I will get out tomorrow and start with a check of the battery, and maybe a load test. I have left the positive and negative terminals zip tied together for the last month, so i am pretty sure we have a clean ecu.

 

Hey guys wanted to reach out with a quick update and to wish everyone a safe and happy New Year!

Short story, putting a new battery in it tomorrow.

I will follow up with everyone after the update as well.
Long story, I did a load test with my old school charger, and it passed here.
Lights on passed as well.
Not trusting it I pulled the battery and brought it to Advanced Auto where I bought it. They threw it on their hand held computer, which actually takes a picture of the battery under test. The battery passed all of their tests on the screen including holding the 13.2 test, but when it ran the calculations, it failed my Die Hard Platinum H7-AGM.
From being involved with you guys for some time now, when I bought the battery, I bought the most expensive they had at $275. Anyway it had a 4 year full warranty so I walked out with a new one for free.

I guess moral is go to Advanced Auto to have them check it. Also, I bought the battery 3 years ago and 10 states away, but didn't even need my receipt and they did a counter exchange.
I hope this helps someone else.

Ron

 

Well Ronks2, good start for the New Year

Now, how much difference did it make to the car? look forward to hearing the update.

 

I hope everyone had a fun and safe New Years Eve,

Codes this trip,
C1440 pressure transducer main/primary signal faulty
U2509 It is not possible to fulfill the torque request by the Engine Management System EMS
P1637 Can link ECM/ABScm network malfunction

P0445 EVAP which I caused on purpose



Since my last update, I was able to get the new battery in with new felt washers underneath. It was somewhere around 20 degrees, so I started it up and let it idle in the driveway. After about a half hour the TCS, ABS, Brake came on same as before with the dash displaying only dashes for the odometer.

Since my last trip up there, I bought an Autel 900BT to work on the car.
This trip I tried to read the TCM, and ABS module, which failed all diag, but I'm not sure if I did something wrong,
The new error codes above were on the Autel OBDII

Thanks again,
Ron

 

Ronks, the P1637 is causing your speedo to indicate ---- and will also cause the TCS, ABS, and brake lights. In short, the car is not seeing the speed signal from the ABS module. So, for me, this is saying you need to look at 2 wires between the ECM and the ABS module. It is possible that your ABS module is dead (not an uncommon occurrence with the X-Type). I would be going after the ABS module long before the ECM especially since your car is starting.

 

The new battery did not make any difference in the cranking speed and the transmission fault came back.

C1440 pressure transducer main/primary signal faulty
U2509 It is not possible to fulfill the torque request by the Engine Management System EMS
P1637 Can link ECM/ABS network malfunction

The big challenge for me is the car is in NH, and the only junk yards I can easily find parts in are in FL. So I am buying parts down her and flying up with them.
The ABS module at least looks like a junk yard replacement as it is marked up in yellow crayon. It would have been swapped out prior to 2019.

C1440 what do you think about this code? Should I grab a junkyard sender and try to install it as well, or get an ABS module?
U2509 what do you think about this code?
P1637, I think are the network wires in green/black and green/yellow i think, so i will chase them down next trip.

Thanks,
Ron