Gearbox fault, amber light, and a burnt smell
#21
Sounds like the transmission died to me. And to answer your question, yes, running the wrong fluid can kill it. One member a while back is a Ford Tech said they had a Jag X in the shop for transmission repair. Got ready to refill total fluid replacement and even at their dealer cost from Jag the fluid was way expensive. So the shop manager said don't worry about it, just use Marcon 5. He said it didn't make it out of the dealership on a test drive. The transmission blew. He said it never felt so good to say "told you so".
#22
Hi, newtojags, did you find out which is the correct fluid (in Australia) and whether the Nulon stuff was correct, or not? I have been travelling down the same path as you, and was think about using the Transmax stuff, but your posts have now got me worried. Any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Bill
Cheers,
Bill
Last edited by Yorta2; 10-01-2018 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Identify original poster
#24
I've read the whole thread, and like newtojags, my local Castrol dealer told me that the Transmax Multivehicle was the right stuff (son't have an 'Import' in the name. As well as hearing a follow-up on his gearbox woes, I want to find out if he could an answer about Australia's suitable Jag transmission oil. I am aware of the IDEMITSU K17 requirement, but am also aware that there must be a few X-Types that have had transmission fluid s changed in Australia, without catastrophic results, and I'm hoping someone might provide an answer.
#25
Well, newtojags DID find the correct fluid for our cars in Australia; the stuff he bought in his last post. Nulon Full Synthetic Multi Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid. It ticks all the boxes, including Idemitsu K17. I am yet to discover the price, but can go ahead and order it. Thanks again for the advice from previous posters.
#28
#29
I'd like to think that the Nulon product is going to be the right stuff for ease of purchase here in Australia, you can still only get it from a few retailers but you don't have to have it shipped to you personally. I'm yet to get my transmission sorted out even after having taken it to a local automatic specialist who assured me he had worked on these before and would be able to help me out. He isn't convinced that the incorrect fluid could produce the issues I'm having after such a short time in the transmission. In the end he decided it was too much work for him to remove and reinstall the transmission but he would rebuild it if I could deliver it too him out of the vehicle. He did say he was concerned that it may need to be removed again for some final adjustments if things still weren't quite right. I found someone who was prepared to remove and refit the transmission only, for $3000. They thought it could easily cost me another $3000 for the transmission to be rebuilt. Overall this is proving to be a bit of a headache and looks like it is going to be a costly exercise. Sorry for the delayed response to the last few threads, I've been on holiday for the last two weeks.
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Yorta2 (10-08-2018)
#30
#31
sounds like the clutch packs gave up in the ttransmission.
they seem pretty easy to replace and the trans does not need to be removed from the car. they are accessed from a removable cover on the side of the trans.
do a youtube search for jatco 506E repair.
there are quite a few videos on this trans as they are fitted in many cars.
new clutch packs are pretty cheap and the job could likely be done in a day or 2
they seem pretty easy to replace and the trans does not need to be removed from the car. they are accessed from a removable cover on the side of the trans.
do a youtube search for jatco 506E repair.
there are quite a few videos on this trans as they are fitted in many cars.
new clutch packs are pretty cheap and the job could likely be done in a day or 2
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newtojags (10-15-2018)
#33
the solonoids are easily checked in-situ.
you would disconnect the electrical connector and probe the pins .
here is a list of what pins ro probe and what values they should be for a land rover...i do not know if jags values are the same
i believe the solonoids are easy to replace without having to remove the transmission, just remove the cover on the front of the trans
you would disconnect the electrical connector and probe the pins .
here is a list of what pins ro probe and what values they should be for a land rover...i do not know if jags values are the same
i believe the solonoids are easy to replace without having to remove the transmission, just remove the cover on the front of the trans
Last edited by iownme; 10-09-2018 at 06:27 PM.
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newtojags (10-15-2018)
#35
As yet I haven't done anything about the O2 sensor other than to price them through Jaguar. I have forwarded a request for a quote from A B Automatics, I am interested to see what they make of the whole mess from fluid replacement with Castrol Transmax Multivehicle (not the correct spec Import Multivehicle) to what I'm currently experiencing. If the clutch packs can be easily replaced it makes sense to give that a try first especially if they can be accessed while the transmission is still fitted to the vehicle. I'll definately be trying the solenoid tests soon. I haven't been able to find any videos on how to access the clutch packs, does anyone have a link for that?
#36
#37
#38
#39
i researched it recently for a land rover and waa surprised to see how easily it could be done...now granted... i watched numerous vidseos showing basically the same thing, and at first it seemed daunting to say the least, but after watching a number of times it looks easier and easier.... i was quite looking forward to it at the end.
alas the car was not purchased and my neighbor saved himself a headache and me a learning "experience!"
alas the car was not purchased and my neighbor saved himself a headache and me a learning "experience!"
#40
Okay, I am now ready to change the TX fluid in my car. Almost. I raised the front end and crawled under to verify where the drain plug is. Maybe my 2.1 litre engine is different, but there is a cross member immediately below the drain plug, and it is also right below the engine oil drain plug. The first 2 photos show the cross member, including the head of the drain plug, next to the hole in the bar. The 3rd shows a close-uo of the cross-member attachment bolts on one side, and the 4th photo shows the engine oil drain plug, also right below the member. The attachment bolts for the member show wear and have been removed in the past (probably to drain the engine oil). Any advice, please.