Gearbox warning light. / battery.
Got a 2005 x type 2.5 AWD auto about 3 months ago. Been ok after solving keyfob problems. Drove about 3 miles to destination and parked. Then drove about 100 yards and pulled over to answer phone. Turned ignition off. On restarting an orange light came on dash, with warning on lcd small screen saying gearbox fault. Car was driving ok though. Stopped somewhere else on way home. On next start light and warning had disappeared. Was only today and haven't driven again since, but have to tomorrow etc. Should I be worried? Is there a dipstick for ATF ? Can only see engine oil one. Also, on inspection when I bought it (from a mechanic selling for 3rd party), I noticed the battery was 4 or 5 inches shorter than the housing it goes in.! He assured me it was fine for the car. On checking the correct battery is longer. I only do short journeys so assumed I'd have to charge it now and again as happened with previous vehicles. Obviously uses more starting the car than I'm putting back in it with 3 or 4 mile journeys. But does anyone know if it would make any difference getting the correct size battery for the car? Thanks.
Mick, the X-Type (and most modern cars) are very sensitive to battery voltage, but more specifically, capacity. If you have say a 700 CCA battery, sure, that is fine for starting the car and will give good results for the first year or so. But, the more you use the battery, the lower the CCA becomes (ie, the battery doesn't work at 100%, it starts dropping to 95%, 90%, etc). At some point, the battery starts not doing what it needs to and you end up with random codes occurring. So, I would say to first drive the car to an auto parts place that does free battery testing and see what they say about the battery (specifically the capacity percentage). if it is below 75%, toss the battery. When getting the new battery, look for one that is in the 850 CCA range. If you can go bigger and get it to fit, all the better. This will give you more time with the battery and not have issues.
Thanks for the quick reply. I do have a good electrical tester for voltage, ampage etc. Will check what you said which makes total sense . Unfortunately I don't have any work at the moment so can't afford another battery right now.
Got a 2005 x type 2.5 AWD auto about 3 months ago. Been ok after solving keyfob problems. Drove about 3 miles to destination and parked. Then drove about 100 yards and pulled over to answer phone. Turned ignition off. On restarting an orange light came on dash, with warning on lcd small screen saying gearbox fault. Car was driving ok though. Stopped somewhere else on way home. On next start light and warning had disappeared. Was only today and haven't driven again since, but have to tomorrow etc. Should I be worried? Is there a dipstick for ATF ? Can only see engine oil one. Also, on inspection when I bought it (from a mechanic selling for 3rd party), I noticed the battery was 4 or 5 inches shorter than the housing it goes in.! He assured me it was fine for the car. On checking the correct battery is longer. I only do short journeys so assumed I'd have to charge it now and again as happened with previous vehicles. Obviously uses more starting the car than I'm putting back in it with 3 or 4 mile journeys. But does anyone know if it would make any difference getting the correct size battery for the car? Thanks.
Last edited by Spikepaga; May 7, 2024 at 06:03 PM.
Hi thanks, I'd be interested to know, thanks. As advised the battery should be 700CCA or preferably 800 or 850CCA, I've checked the one the previous owner ensured me was adequate, as I questioned as didn't fill the battery case. As expected it's not suitable for the car, with reg check and only 390CCA!!
To do a battery cable check, you can use either your hands or an IR thermometer to check the temps. If you use your hands, cup your hands OVER!!!!! the said item. To not follow this may result in a very learning experience.
For the check, let the car sit for awhile (8+ hours) so the motor is cold. Now, start up the car and let it idle. Turn on the headlights, both seat heaters, dash fan on high, and the rear defroster. Let the car sit like this for 5 minutes or so. After the time has elapsed, open the hood/bonnet and check the temp of the battery connections. They should be about the same temp as the surrounding metal pieces. These have been known to get hot enough to cook an egg on them. If these are definitely hotter than the surrounding metal, they need replaced. It may be one cable, it may be both. Hard to say. The cables are known for sucking moisture up the cable and this will rott out the copper and result in a high resistance connection, where the heat gets generated.
For the check, let the car sit for awhile (8+ hours) so the motor is cold. Now, start up the car and let it idle. Turn on the headlights, both seat heaters, dash fan on high, and the rear defroster. Let the car sit like this for 5 minutes or so. After the time has elapsed, open the hood/bonnet and check the temp of the battery connections. They should be about the same temp as the surrounding metal pieces. These have been known to get hot enough to cook an egg on them. If these are definitely hotter than the surrounding metal, they need replaced. It may be one cable, it may be both. Hard to say. The cables are known for sucking moisture up the cable and this will rott out the copper and result in a high resistance connection, where the heat gets generated.
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To do a battery cable check, you can use either your hands or an IR thermometer to check the temps. If you use your hands, cup your hands OVER!!!!! the said item. To not follow this may result in a very learning experience.
For the check, let the car sit for awhile (8+ hours) so the motor is cold. Now, start up the car and let it idle. Turn on the headlights, both seat heaters, dash fan on high, and the rear defroster. Let the car sit like this for 5 minutes or so. After the time has elapsed, open the hood/bonnet and check the temp of the battery connections. They should be about the same temp as the surrounding metal pieces. These have been known to get hot enough to cook an egg on them. If these are definitely hotter than the surrounding metal, they need replaced. It may be one cable, it may be both. Hard to say. The cables are known for sucking moisture up the cable and this will rott out the copper and result in a high resistance connection, where the heat gets generated.
For the check, let the car sit for awhile (8+ hours) so the motor is cold. Now, start up the car and let it idle. Turn on the headlights, both seat heaters, dash fan on high, and the rear defroster. Let the car sit like this for 5 minutes or so. After the time has elapsed, open the hood/bonnet and check the temp of the battery connections. They should be about the same temp as the surrounding metal pieces. These have been known to get hot enough to cook an egg on them. If these are definitely hotter than the surrounding metal, they need replaced. It may be one cable, it may be both. Hard to say. The cables are known for sucking moisture up the cable and this will rott out the copper and result in a high resistance connection, where the heat gets generated.
MIck, with the engine running, your battery should be essentially out of the question. It should only be there for filtering the voltage to smooth it out. The smaller battery is going to allow more riplle through which can cause random faults to come in. But, for the heating of cables, the battery is not going to have any effect.
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