When the car is cold there are basically no brakes, yet a hard pedal. after driving a bit al slow stops it's fine. If I have to suddenly stop it just wont no matter how hard I smash the pedal. I've been told booster, pads etc. Anyone familiar. it's an 02 x 2.5 automatic...please help. I was given a 650.00 price for a booster and no idea if that's the problem

 

You more than likely have a vacuum leak.

search on forum for member joycesjag with colour photos of vacuum lines it shows S Type but same engine.

 

thank you will do, I listened for a leak but didn't hear anything.

 

There is a vacuum hose from the brake booster to the top of the manifold, with a check valve in the middle of it. Check for a leak somewhere in that line, either where it goes into the manifold or in the valve. (bulge in the middle of the line). Or just replace the whole line -$20 -30.00 on ebay. Just be careful in pulling the old line out of the manifold. Push down on the connector while pulling up on the line.

 

Louvit, do you have a check engine light on? If so, have the code(s) read and post here. Could very well be the booster hose, but generally that won't cause the stiff brake pedal as you describe. Could certainly be the brake booster itself.

 

yes have a ck engine light on forever, but it's for 02 sensors. Is there a better way to check for a vacuum leak than by ear? i was thinking of spraying soapy water on it, but a vacuum leak will suck in nit blow out. I've been t a mechanic and all he did was sit in the car hold the brake and start it, the pedal went down an inch or so and he said booster, 625.00....don't really trust that

 

A cheap trick to determine if the brake vacuum line is the problem is to wrap tape all around the check valve to seal it and see if the braking improves. If it doesn't then it is probably the booster and not the check valve.

 

You mention your brake problem is when car is cold & gets better after it warms up. Does engine run rough during this same time, then smooth out as it warms up? --Also a good sign you have a vacuum leak. You can spray carb cleaner around where you think leak may be & listen for idle to increase where leak is. Only do when engine is cold & be careful as this stuff is extremely flammable!

 

car is at the shop now at a trusted mechanic I know for 20 years. I advised him to check for leaks before jumping into the booster. 700.00 vs 50.00...lol. will let you all know as soon as I do

 

yea, It's the booster, he blocked the check valve or something and booster wasn't holding pressure, he;s doing booster and a new check valve for 606.00.... thanks for the help guys

 

WOW brakes are awesome, 3 years I own the car they have never been this good. also my radio display never worked,,now it's working...lol