Hello,

I have a Jaguar X-Type 2002 2.5 Auto with some problems. I was wondering if I can get some tips on the car. I haven't drove it since the problems got worst.

I bought the car 1 year ago, it always had the check engine light on and cruise control flashing with engine misfire. But recently it got much worst. It was a very hot day and I had the ac on and heard the engine shaking and engine light flashing and cruise control on.

Car is throwing these codes last year:

P0174
P0333
P0420
P1000

Could this be the spark plugs? I already purchased the knock sensor and waiting for the o2 sensor in the mail.

I added some videos of the noise. There is also a noise coming from airbox. You can hear it in the video.

(see post #3 for the video links - GGG)

 

Firstly, welcome to the Forums.

When time permits, please do an Intro in the New Members Area.

I suggest a repost in the X Type Tech section, where the answers will flow.

 

Videos:

Upload and Share Videos - Sendvid

Upload and Share Videos - Sendvid

 

Welcome to the forum Joey Sid,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to X-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

Joey, based on your codes, you have 2 issues going on. You are correct in that most likely you will need a new knock sensor due to the P0333 code. But, the P0174 code is a vacuum leak code on bank 2. Odds are, you have a vacuum hose that has developed a leak. Because you have it only on 1 bank and you are not also talking about a P0171 code, your problem most likely lies with the IMT valve o-rings. These are the black discs on the passenger side of the intake. I would say to replace those (the new o-rings should be green as the black ones were found to fail after a short period of time) and then also give the other vacuum hoses a look over too. I would especially look at the brake booster hose (comes off the top of the intake and runs over to the brake booster, the "football" piece in the middle is known to dry out and start to crumble away or develop a crack in it) and the PCV hose running just to the left of the throttle body, under the plastic cover (this is known to develop a split in the rubber hose on the underside where it bends up and over a bracket on the engine, if you have a smooth hose, then this is most likely your problem as this was another known problem and has since had an upgrade and the hose should now be ribbed).

Once you fix those two issues, as long as you haven't hurt the cat, the P0420 code should go away.

 

A split on a hose can cause complete misfire?

My radiator has been leaking a lot of water for the past months. Is it possible I burned my spark plugs? I haven't been able to drive my car for weeks.

Engine shakes engine light flashes cruise control light constantly now.

I can also hear a noise by the big tune by the airbox.

 

Here's the video of the sound:

Upload and Share Videos - Sendvid

Thanks for the replays.

 

I checked the O rings and they seems new. Also checked vacuum hose and brake booster hose. All seems okay.

I'm about to change the spark plugs. Should I change the coil pick as well?

 

Is it possible i fried my cat converter? Shakes at low rpm and normal at higher rpms but engine light flashing with cruise control light.

 

When the light is flashing that means the misfire is severe enough that you are doing damage. If you have been driving it for a long time in that condition there is a good chance you damaged the catalytic converter by now. Address the codes you have right as Thermo suggested and hope for the best.

Just curious, if the check engine light was flashing for so long the I would think the driveability of the car would certainly have been affected to the point where it would be unpleasant to drive. Why did you wait so long before addressing the issue?

 

Joey, you can try looking at the plugs and seeing what you have. But, if you have a plug issue, you will normally get a P030X code (where X is a number from 0 through 6, relating to the cylinder with the misfire or 0 for a random misfire). You are getting a P0333 code which is a completely different thing.

Listening to your video, I am not able to figure out what the ticking is coming from. What I would recommend doing is getting yourself a wood dowel or other thin wood stick that you can probe the engine with. What you are going to do is place 1 end of the stick against various parts of the engine as you put the other end on the bone just behind your ear. This will make the sound in the engine transfer straight to your head so you can hear it. Then you are simply probing parts of the engine to see where the ticking is the loudest. I want to say that the ticking is a lifter that is sticking, but the car doesn't have lifters, it would also result in a misfire of a cylinder.

Hopefully the dowel trick will help you narrow down where the sound is coming from.

 

Hey guys,

I just replaced the spark plugs and there was a lot of oil on all of them. I couldn't find the knock sensor.

The engine light started flashing with a lot of misfire recently but I haven't driven it like that.

When I started the car there was a lot of smoke coming out of exhaust.

 

It sounds like the sound is coming from electrical part connected to side of the big air tube. Not sure what this part is called.

 

Joey, trying to help you here, but your description is leaving me a little confused. Lets take a step back. If you open the hood of your car, front and center you will see a black box that says "JAGUAR" on it. That is your air box. Coming out of the right side of it is the air tube. Back a litlte ways on it is a small black box sticking out the side with an electrical connector on it. This is your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. If you go a little further, you will see where this large air tube becomes like an accordian for about 6 inches. The far end of this accordian is your throttle body. The side towards the center of the motor is what is called your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). The side towards the overflow bottle is the Throttle body motor.

If the throttle body motor is clicking, then you are pretty much left with replacing the throttle body as what is happening is the car is attempting to open the throttlebody slightly to maintain the idle, but either the throttlebody is not responding or is going too far open and it is having to force itself shut. This "low idle" condition will cause the engine to shake and because the throttlebody is not working properly, that will cause you to go into limp mode.

If you are thinking that the throttle body has an issue, I would first start with removing the accordian tube off of the front of the throttlebody. You can then use a rag with some carb cleaner on it to wipe the inside of the throttlebody. Make sure to use a finger to manually open the silver disk (called a butterfly valve) and wipe the area where the disk touches the throttle body. Also make sure to wipe the edge of the butterfly valve. You will probably notice that the inside is a dark brown/black color and when you are done, it should have a nice silvery color to it. If you see brown, pick a different part of the cloth, apply some carb cleaner and keep cleaning. Repeat until you get no more brown on the rag. See what you have then.

 

Here's what I did:

Replace knock sensor
Replace lower gaskets ( previous ones were smashed)
Replace spark plugs
Checked all hoses ( no leaks)
Cleaned throttle body and Maf sensor

I test drove the car today it ran smooth but then engine light flashing cruise and bucking came back.

I also accidentally broke the small hose behind tb on top of intake ( what's this hose called so I can replace?)

I'm guessing the coil plugs now? I don't think it's the CC because the car runs perfect when the sensors on not
Going off.

anyother ideas?

Thanks Thermo. You been very helpful.

 

The clicking went away in the throttle body after I cleaned it, I noticed the butterfly valve is rough to open. Could this be causing the car to shake? Maybe I need a new TB.

 

Joey, it is very possible. The ECU uses the motor to make fine adjustments to the throttlebody to maintain the idle. If it is sticking, it can create what you are seeing.

 

Joey, why not check and see what codes you have right now after all the work you did and see what you have. You might want to clear them first and see what comes back so that you know just what is happening now and it is not an old stored code.

That hose you said you broke, that isn't the the brake booster check valve, is it? The one with the big bulbous thing in the middle. That would cause the light to come on. If you would get a code P030X that is a misfire corresponding to a specific cylinder. If you would get that switch that coil out for one that is not misfiring and see if the misfire moves with the coil.

 

I went to get the car scanned for codes. I noticed the car ran okay with low fuel as soon as I put fuel it ran horribly. Check engine light flashing cruise light rough idle engine shake.

Here's the codes I got:

P0172

P0173

P0305

P1313

P0333

P0420

Any suggestions?

 

What Fuel do you use are you using Premium 91?