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4) Will there be a code for this?
5) Perhaps, here is why.
Again, this car is not my daily driver, sits for days to weeks at a time. I took it for a spin there other day, and I only got two miles before High Temp Light came on and the gauge buried in the red.
Car running perfectly and quietly, No steam. I pulled over and let it cool. Then took drove it the two miles back home.
Fan did not appear to be running when I parked it.
Would 2 miles of driving a cold car without a fan be far enough to cause this? That seems quick to me.
Also, I return drive, I turned heat on full blast and there was heat. In the old days is Thermostat was stuck there would be no heat. It was a 21 / 70 degree day.
Thanks guys,
Vic
Last edited by Vic Douse; Jul 6, 2023 at 06:31 AM.
Check the following two fuses in your power distribution fuse box under the hood as both are associated with the cooling fan control module:-
F16 (5A)
F40 (80A) Note: F40 is one of the larger fuses located on the underside of the power distribution fuse box.
If a fuse has failed and fails again upon replacement, then either you have a bad fan controller or a bad fan motor which can also damage the fan controller.
If you suspect a bad motor , you might want to disconnect and test each motor briefly with a direct 12 volt supply to ensure the motors are OK.
Don't replace fan controller with a cheap Asian version as they behave differently. Use a genuine part if you can locate one.
Two miles is a very short distance to go from cold to overheating. Are you sure the car is actually overheating? I've had the sensor for the gauge fail in a way that it would erratically go to red and stay there, then reset when I re-started the car, only to do it again some time later. I think perhaps once the computer gets a too hot reading it keeps the gauge pegged to encourage you to pull over regardless of what the sensor in now indicating.
You can test this by shutting off the car once you get the overheating warning, letting it sit for a minute or so, and restarting. If the gauge then reads normal, it's almost certainly the sensor (a car couldn't cool down this quickly). If you have a suitable thermometer where you can read the temperature near the thermostat (a non-contact IR thermometer probably being ideal), that would be a good indicator as to whether it is actually overheating too.
I do wonder if I indeed have real problem or not. I will fine my IR thermometer tonight and check. I will clear codes and replace my F16 fuse as well.
Thank you
Pull F16 not burnt. Only have Standard blade fuses on hand, so it not swap out.
Can't find my IR Thermometer, took for a shorter drive perhaps 1.5 miles turned around when gauge hit halfway. We buried before I got back home.
Does not appear to be actually hot.
Did throw code this time. P0117. Engine Collant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low.
Some thread recommend battery. I had left lights on a few weeks ago and killed the battery. But put on charger and has worked fine since but. it did happen.
So just went and tried my old crappy Analog load tester, green but does tip slightly in warning low when on load. However, did notice this with bonnet up.
Well guys that was best 16 dollars I every spent. Got the part Thursday. I put in on yesterday Monday morning. I soldered the line together then heat shrinked them. I put it all back in the plastic sheath and wrap it backup in electrical tape.
Took it quick spin before to test. I then put 150 K on it yesterday in the 31 degree heat no issues.