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Ignition Key Won't Turn

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Old 08-17-2010, 10:16 AM
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Default Ignition Key Won't Turn

NEED HELP... I have a 2003 Jaguar x-type. The key will not turn in the ignition. I had it towed to the mechanic shop. After mucho key jiggling, the mechanic got it started so I drove it home. I then jiggled the key back and forth for about an hour myself, for the past few days and could not get it to turn. MY QUESTION: Rather than taking it to the Jag Dealer and having an expensive repair bill and reprogrammed keys, is there any way I can put a "stock ignition cylinder" into my Jag that does not required special keys, and bypass all the anti-theft devices, just like in a normal car?
 
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Old 08-17-2010, 10:36 AM
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No you cannot, they key is is an easy swap out as long as you get the opld key to turn. Problem is you need to toss that key as well since i know its worn. You need a lock cylinder and 2 new keys. If you keep the old it will do the saem thing in the new barrel eventually. There are non jag keys out there that work and say for. But thats up to you to find out what works if you want to go that route. You did buy a jaguar and not a hyundai which just meens fancy more expensive stuff. Same with lexus, bmw. Benz etc....
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 09:46 AM
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Default New Key?

Has anyone tired having a new key made? Maybe it is the key(s) and not so much the ignition lock cylinder?
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by shula
Has anyone tired having a new key made? Maybe it is the key(s) and not so much the ignition lock cylinder?
Any quality lock smith can make a key based on your other key. They usually don't have access to factory key codes though. You would need to go to the dealer for that. Do you have the other keys? If so how do they turn in the barrel?
 
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by shula
Has anyone tired having a new key made? Maybe it is the key(s) and not so much the ignition lock cylinder?
the key is most of the issue but the barrel gets worn too and ive done many a new keys for this and still have issue with sticking. Both in turning and even trying to get the new key out of the barrel
 
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Old 08-19-2010, 02:43 AM
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Tibbe locks are terrible, terrible design, terrible to use. The key wears faster than the lock, but they both wear far quicker than a 'normal' vehicle wafer lock.

The other issue is, as Tibbe is only used in Ford/Jag cars, not all locksmiths want to spend a couple of $k on the machine. IE you need a specific Tibbe key cutting machine to cut the key. Thats also why the keys are so expensive - Price per key cut vs price for the machine. (ex the transpoder bit that I know little about tbh). Its all about quantity to price really.

However, if you are brave, you can decode the key yourself. (Unless its worn to much and you cant see the different cuts) Once you have the 'key cut code' - And not the key code (they are different) - then surf the net and look for the best price on the decode key cut. (And dont forget to tell everyone on here where you got it from!)


These links might help..

Learn how to read the key >>
http://www.britishparts.com/technici...ekeycodes.html


And I found this, I havent looked at it in depth but a quick glance it certainly looks interesting..
http://passionford.com/forum/technic...with-pats.html


You can also get Tibbe locks 'rebuilt'. Its not difficult but is not cheap. (Again its an issue of quantity sets the price (and an hour and a half labor)) As its the internal mechanism that wears, you can replace the internal parts of the lock and retain the case. I used to charge about $100 per lock when I was a locksmith a few years ago but doubt if the price has changed much. (It certainly wouldnt go down anyway)
 
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