I just put 225 30 zr 20 on mine. Looks great but with the system in the trunk it rubs. Any suggestions?

 

I'm going for the wheel spacers. I found these H&R 25mm spacers for the rear. Does anyone know if they're easy to install, or if the price is good. I have "Tire Pros" shop around the corner, I could have them put them on.

Thanks!
H&R Wheel Spacers For Jaguar X-Type 2002-08 25mm (5035633)

 

I've used those style spacers on many cars of mine, my truck has them on all 4 right now, and they are just like bolting a wheel on to install. I've never had a problem with them, but I always buy them on eBay. Just make sure they are a good billet aluminum and quality studs. I spend under 100 for all 4 typically.

 

I haven't been able to confirm the alloy/aluminum type, but you're right, it needs to be a good strong aluminum. The fact that they are [Al] at all is almost a worry.

I figure they'll last for a couple years, then pull them and check 'em. These spacers are H&R and German made, but I haven't seen much for reviews. I'm with it tho, I'm going to get them.

These are $160 for a pr. thru H&R website, msrp. I don't know where you shop Justin! Anyway, I'm into the phatAss look these days. Pics to come.

 

People have this hang up about aluminum but it can be just as strong as steel in a lighter package. Like I said, I've gotten all my spacers and adaptors on eBay, and years ago I used to spend about 80 on a pair, now you can find them for just over 100 for a set of 4. I've had probably 6 different cars that i've used those kind of spacers on and I have never had a problem, and I'm hard on my cars. I also couldn't tell you what brand any of them are haha.

 

Like you, I'm hard on my cars. I had the X up to about 6500 rpms today going up a hill in 3rd gear. That's not really being hard on the engine if you have good oil etc. But I accelerate into corners a lot even if the road is not as smooth as I'd like, so gets a little squirrely sometimes but always hold the road. I did that while test driving a BMW the other day (1999 M3) the *** end slipped big time so I let off the gas It had pretty good power tho, I like the inline six motor.

Anyway, I was reading your list of mods and you have two that I've been thinking about for a while. Racing seats and slotted rotors!

What type of seats do you have? I want to pull my stock front seats and all the motors and put in light weight seats, no motors.

My brake rotors are super thin and I need new ones but I want to go with the slotted version.

Any info would be helpful! Thanks!

 

My current seats are really more racy than race, but they are lighter and hold me in place 100 times better. My seats had airbags in them, and I think most do, so now that they are missing my airbag light is always on. There might be a way to tell the computer they don't exist and that its ok, but I just ignore it haha. I had a hard time finding tan seats, and it was either cheap ones like I got, or 3 times the cost of the pair for just one full on carbon fiber race seat that I could get in tan leather and black suede, they are under 20lbs each too haha. I wish I could have gotten those, maybe one day. I will need to replace the ones I have as they are not holding up well to the sun. Oh as for seat tracks, you'll have to custom make them. I couldn't find anything bolt in for the X so I modified the stock seat tracks. My drivers side is still power forward back and up and down haha.


If you really like pushing your car, get better seats. The better the seat holds you in place, the more you can focus on driving rather than sliding around into the door or arm rest haha. I wouldn't even want to autocross with stock seats haha.


Slotted rotors are cool, but they don't really help with stopping distances, they help with overheating and fading, and fading is very bad haha. If you are looking for more stopping power go with good rotors, slotted or not, and the best pads for what you want to do with the car. I recently got some EBC yellow stuff pads for mine since I need to do some brake work. Also look into st225 (focus ST) front brakes. The calipers and rotors are bigger but bolt right into any year x type, but 17inch wheels or bigger are needed. you can get stainless steel brake lines from Goodrich on eBay from the uk. I just got a set so those will go on too when I redo my brakes soon.

 

I got a set of 25mm H&R wheel spacers, DRM series, bolt-ons (rear wheels). They are made from an aluminum alloy and weigh 2.5 lbs each. I like the way it looks, esp. with the vehicle already lowered on springs. However, I'm going to have to roll these fenders out to tuck the lip back. As is, I have rubbing on driveways and dips in the road. The driver's side is worse for some reason. Playing it cool until my "fender roller" comes in from Amazon. $75.00. I have a Wagner heat gun, so I'll just get to it; carefully!




The new look is subtle.


I played with the colors on Photobucket

 

👍👍👍👍 love emmmm,
Can u highlight were you got those wheel spacers please
Thanks you

 

Thanks! here ya go.

5085738 H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers - DRM Series (Width: 25mm) at Andy's Auto Sport

 

I love the subtle fat look with 25mm spacers. I wouldn't go any wider. I rolled the rear fenders using the Eastwood tool, a heat gun, and a few wrenches. But I'll probably need to stiffen up the rear suspension; been reading JustinK201's suspension build. However, the mods he did on the rear seems like a lot of custom work dude! You've got to give us novices something to work with That thread has tons of good info!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...us-far-113706/

The first wheel well (driver's) took a while to roll...But the tire has been getting chewed up on that side the worst, so I started there, I removed the plastic fender well pieces on each side, no problem, 5 nuts each. Heat up the metal to about 200F with a heat gun. aim from the backside so not to stress your clear coat.

learning how to use the tool was interesting, but once you get the angles right and start rolling that lip back, you're in business. The outward pressure/force is controlled with a manual drive screw. Then you use a different screw to lock the angle of the polyurethane roller and start rolling it back and forth. You have to adjust for the different arcs of the fender shape as you roll.

You basically fold and bend the inner lip back on itself like a taco and roll back and forth to a smooth finish. I've heard ppl use a baseball bat to do the same thing. It can't possibly come out as smooth as with a roller.
Tool cost $75.00.

First contact.



Consider the angle of attack.




Start pulling and pushing that roller along the path. Takes some force. Make sure the fender is still warm so the paint bends nicely etc...



The beginning (see the lip starting to fold in towards the bottom).



The fender lip, which is actually two ply of sheet metal, was eventually folded back all the way and out of the way on both sides. I'll have to see how she rides.

 

The plastic wheel well covers don't fit right any more bc the lip is gone and they need to ride a little higher now to be up and out of view. No big, will glue them out of the way under the fender with a little Liquid Nails or something.

Rides good tho! I'm still pensive about actually hitting corners the way I used to. I was pushing down and bouncing the rear end today and seeing that the bumper cover might be the next thing to get in the way, but I don't think I can do anything about that; unless I could loosen it and pull it 5mm back towards the rear of the car and tighten it.

 

Nice roller fending, that picture of the rear end of the car is the ****.

Now thats worth all the effort. Great job Patterson.

 

Thanks FabFive, I really like the look too. The fenders don't rub anymore, that was seriously chewing up my tires. I need to fasten the wheel well cover up and out of the way since that fender lip is now folded back, it has nothing to rest on. It hangs down where it shouldn't and hits the tire on hard turns.

Lowering springs and wheel spacers are not for the dabbler! It looks good but it also takes a lot of mechanical finesse to get it right so that after the mod, you can drive the X like it was meant to be driven. Sporty!

 

Brave man to take on that body modification! ........... great job.
Graham

 

Yeah nice work on the fender rolling, came out better than mine. I did roll mine a lot more though. Keep an eye on the front pass side inner fender well because there are a few wires that can get eaten up, like the fender signal light, and the ABS sensor. I even managed to eat through my windshield washer hose. I am a lot lower though, and that's what did it, not the width. I have rewired and reran all them now though so my front fenders have nothing in them now. Well, the ac lines, but they are tucked up nicely as they come stock. If you find that you have random rubs, say, while turning on a bumpy road, I find that spraying some paint, white or something easy to see, on the plastic fender covers make finding those rubs simple, just look for spots without paint.

 

Thanks Graham, the fender was pretty forgiving as far as the force applied, it actually bowed out of shape a couple times but returned. The last thing I wanted to do was lose that nice arc shape of the fender over the tire. Avoiding that is in the angle of attack with the polyurethane roller.

 

Justink, I only did the rear, but I'm familiar with all that wiring and stuff up front, more to look out for. You said you rolled yours more, did you try to bow them out? I think I'll leave the fronts as is, no spacers, I like them tucked. In this pic you can see the difference back vs front.

 

Yeah mine are pushed out a lot more too, and I grabbed mine and pulled them out a bit too. It was a lot of work, but I have a ton of room. One day I'd like to get another set of fenders and rework them just to make it look better.

 

Hi I have an 02 X Type looking to mount some XF rims on it and looking for the perfect tire size. They are staggered. Front are 9.0 and rear are 10. Im pretty sure I may need spacers also. Any advice will be helpful.
Thanks. The Rookie lol