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If you parking aid module is at the same position, where mine was (it should be the same):
Behind the "wall-carpet" in the boot facing to the rear on the left side. I simply removed the whole module from the car.
I have a Sony-radio with screen in that X-Type anyway (it came with the car). This radio has the ability to automatically switch to the reverse camera and to display the rear view on the screen when reversing - a real nice gadget... - if there is a camera - but the camera was not installed - that was probably too much work for whoever installed the radio...
I simply bought a camera (about AU$12) on ebay and installed it. A lot of work, but as I had the carpet removed anyway, it was not that bad.
Hhmm, had an annoying rattle from dash. I found it was the upper air outlet on left side that was loose, all the way at the front near bottom of windscreen, long thin thing. I wanted to take it out, use some sealer and put it back in, but I think some sensor attached to the left of it (on my LHD) fell off and into dash. What is that sensor? The next day my GPS didn't work, connected?
Those ventilation outlets under the windscreen are all brittle. Probably due to UV-light and heat. Not possible to buy replacement.
I fixed mine anyway with a lot of work/time and with some plywood.
Mine do not have a sensor there, I think, but my bet is on "rain sensor", as I recently looked at electric circuit diagrams of the X-Type for the wiper stalk switch and I noticed that there is a version with a rain sensor. I assume you would have a special position for auto-wipe on your wiper stalk switch? If yes, it's a rain sensor.
Other cars have a light sensor there (e.g. S-Type), which is for auto-light.
But neither rain sensor not light sensor should affect the GPS...
That hemi-spherical sensor at the end of one of the windscreen vents is the Solar Sensor, for the earlier climate control systems. It was discontinued as part of the major upgrade to the whole electrical distribution system in 2004.
The rain sensor and the autolights sensor are both in the top centre of the windscreen, in the housing that supports the rearview mirror assembly.
Any advice on the GPS that has worked for weeks, then it didn't? First it just didn't get the route calculated very slowly, then not at all, then POIs were not available, then the map disappeared, then it came back, etc., it's not only one fault. Is there a way to reset? The menu "reset" doesn't do much, just changes my settings.
Originally it had a 2001 disc, I bought 2011-2012, when I inserted it, it also seemed to update the program around the map. How can I get it to do that again?
Do you have the same problem now with both discs - the 2001 and the 2011 disc?
If not, I would simply clean the surface of the disc, which does not work.
If it is both discs, my idea would be to do that same, that you would do as first aid measure with a CD player, which is playing up:
Clean the laser lens, which reads the disc, with isopropanol alcohol on a cotton tip. Obviously, you have to open the nav-unit to do this.
Clean the laser lens, which reads the disc, with isopropanol alcohol on a cotton tip. Obviously, you have to open the nav-unit to do this.
The GPS works most of the time, but when I had the X-Type in my workshop for thermostat, oil and headlight adjustment, I thought I'd look at cleaning as suggested. But how? Or where? I've taken it apart as much as I dare, frankly, if I take it more apart I usually ruin stuff, not what I'm best at. So any advice, is the place I need to clean even visible? Or?
The lens cleaning as described above is what I have done on CD / DVD players at home. The principle would be the same on the Jag CD player and nav unit.
But as I did not not yet have a failing Nav unit, I did not take mine... - well, that's not right: I did take one apart, but I can't remember the details. But I found this on the net, maybe that helps: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Audi+Na...Cleaning/12404
If you are trying to clean the optical pickup, I suggest you use a cotton bud with either some eye glasses cleaning fluid or window cleaner.
Only apply the cleaning fluid to the cotton bud (don't try to spray the optical unit directly).
Use only very light downward pressure on the optical lens as it has delicate spring suspension to allow the focus and tracking coils to adjust the position of the lens.
You might have enough access to get the cotton bud to reach on the angle through the gap in the metalwork to clean the lens (part of item C) but pressure control might be more difficult.
If not, then you are probably removing the 4 screws (marked in red circles) which should allow you to disengage assembly A that limits the disc clamping arm.
With that removed, you can hopefully get some additional clearance now by tilting up B (if it is not being restricted by the disc clamping drive mechanism).
You should also see two small polished stainless steel guide rails that the optical unit traverses along.
They should be clean and not have any accumulation of dust piled up on the end of their travel in either direction.
If the optical unit has brass bushings, then a very light smear of 3in1 oil on each rail (less than a drop) if they are dry will help with smoother movement.
If it is just a plastic bushing then a fine white plastic grease is generally used.
I'm very happy with my purchase of my 2003 2.5 X-Type. It's the car I drive the most, just so comfortable, and it's the car I have with the best mileage. Three small issues still:
GPS. The 2001 disc seems to work fine, but it's OLD. Bought a 2012 disc, works half the time. Have given up now, buying a phone holder, and will use phone GPS instead
Rear window heater. When on, a lot of static in the radio. CDs, no issue. I live with it, unless simple solution...
I have no rear foglamps. Have to turn the switch two positions clockwise, and then pull, first step turns on front foglamps (works), and pull one more rear forlamps should join, but they don't. I believe it's fuse F62, but that fuse looks fine, and as I can measure no power in any of the connectors in the fuse. So, there might be something I don't understand. And I wanted to look at the wiring diagrams, but can't find it within my car pdfs? Link (again)? Please :-)
1.
I did have an old computer with windows 98, and on that I had a program, which could copy any kind of CD one to one, i.e. I could create an absolute identical clone. Obviously only with 1-layer discs, not 2-layer discs. (Sadly, I cannot do that anymore, as that computer, with everything else I had, burned in 2019 in a bushfire.). But if you find anywhere a way to just clone the 2012 disc, this could solve your problem. CDs simply get old over time and self-destruct. But if your clone-program can still read your old disc alright, it can create a new version without the age-related issues of the OE disc.
2.
There might indeed be an easy way to solve the interference issue you have: Place a capacitor in parallel to the mains-power-in of the radio. Which capacitor exactly, google will tell you. Automotive shops might already have a suitable one in their shop, but if I am right, I think, the bigger the better (i.e. the more micro Farad).
3.
Yes, 2 pulls on the light switch means: not just front fog light but front AND rear fog lights... - I should know - I did the electrical design of THAT switch...
Just to confirm: when you pull twice, the front fog lights are still on, yes!?
(I tried to attach the electric guide here, but it did not work - probably too big for this forum...).
That sounds good, because if that were not the case, there would be a fault with "MY" switch....
Just in case you did not renew your page: I added meanwhile the link to the Electrical Guide in my post above.
Another idea on the rear fog lights: If there is corrosion between the "socket"-contact and the bulb, the bulb would not light up.
I think that there are 2 rear fog lights, but Murphy's law would suggest that the contacts on the left AND right are both affect at the same time... (just an idea...)
It's called the Master Switch, you must be the Master then
Looks simple enough in wiring diagram, but...I can trace it back to fuse F29, which is correct for 2004-2009, I think we concluded I have 2003, where it should be F62 (as my in glove compartment manual says, and yes it's 7.5). Found a page stating that F04731 starts in 2007, so the wring diagram is too new for me. Is a 2003 available? Regardless, I'll examine bulbs tomorrow
The X-Type Model Years
Model Year VIN Start Note
2001 from C00344 Introduction of V6 2.5L and V6 3.0L Petrol Engines
2002 from C42385
2002.25 from C59261 Introduction of V6 2.0L Petrol Engine
2003 from D01808
2004 from D56272 Introduction of in-line 4 cylinder 2.0L Diesel Engine
2004.5 from D86655 Introduction of Estate 2005 from E19616
2005.5 from E46483
2006 from E67744
2006.25 from E73994 Introduction of in-line 4 cylinder 2.2L Diesel Engine
2007 from J04731
2008 from J28493
2009 from J39906
Man, I'm stupid. I fully understand and use the concept "it's often the easy stuff, test that first", but here I didn't. Well, had checked the fuse, looked ok, had continuity during a quick measure. Checking again now, yes, continuity, but a million ohm. The fuse was burned but with a very thin thread still. Replaced with 10A fuse which Jaguar later did, now both rear fog lamps work. Sorry for wasting time...
