Weak radio with rear glass demister turned on...........
My XJ8 exhibits the same oddity of the radio sensitivity taking a dive if the rear window heater is on.
Haven't yet delved into that issue, may have some time over Christmas as have already have a list of jobs to do on my XJ: rear discs/pads, window wiper motor repair and front sway bar bushings.

Both the X-Type and the X350 employ a separate antenna signal booster module buried in the left side C pillars (although different module part numbers), so I am wondering if the issue is a supply or earthing one.
The antenna is incorporated in the rear glass, so it is also possible that energizing the rear heater element is diminishing the antenna performance if the antenna array conductivity has become damaged in the rear glass (like when you lose a single line in the rear heater).

I plan to check supply voltages to my signal booster with and without rear heater on and also the earthing integrity.
If they check OK, then I may bypass the integrated rear glass antenna with a alternate FM antenna into the booster amp connector to see if the symptom persists.
If it does, then it may point to a weak signal booster module being the fault, or a rear heater element causing interference.
It is theoretically possible that even a fine break in the heater element might create subtle arcing interference that might be so close that it upsets antenna (check if all your rear window heater lines are working, if not then locate and mark the break so you can temporarily bridge across it with something conductive to see if radio signal improves.

 

I strongly urge you against driving it and have a flatbed tow it. I bought a 2002.5 Jaguar X-type (X400) automatic. The person "F" the car up doing the same. I just spent thousands of dollars repairing all of the mechanical issues caused. The broke the gearbox, had to replace. Blew out the transmission relay, had it replaced. Battery replaced. They misplaced the keys had a auto locksmith replace an cut two keys. On transponder key built into Fob, the other valet key. Neither key will program. But, keys was checked and chip and they are code to my Jaguar specifications. Next just recently ordered two new keys which are built into the fob. Brand new, never use. By the way Fobs cost about 400 bucks each, without the keys cut nor programmed. Long story short. Driving it will likely blow out the drive train, and gears. Blow the transmission relay and more. Including, activating several anti-theft, immobilizer, and ecu issues. So, now my car is old and Jaguar Dealerships DO NOT WORK ON CARS OLDER THAN 2012, and other mechanic shops and garages don't have software for Jaguar and will not work on cars older than 2005 which are rare finds also. I need the pin code to unlock the immobilizer, anti-theft and ecu. To get it yo run. SMH!!! Car would been a great find...good body, very nice interior and low miles on 90,XXX+ Didn't know every garage and dealership, I called doesn't have software. Don't let it happen to you. I'm still working on getting car working 💪. I don't give up easily, I wanna know how to repair or bypass this issue since I'm so invested already. Hope this info, helps you or someone else. Btw, haven't found no one to fix EEPOM nor flash the ECU for Jaguar yet!!

 

Now it's winter, and my preferred daily driver is the X-Type, 4WD etc. But...I lack heat.

The engine is a long time warming up according to the gauge. I have replaced the thermostat, the old one was broken in open position, the new is new, and just checked it, still like new. Takes 5-8 km before needle is in the middle. Normal?

Even worse in my climate, it takes forever to get heat inside. Even if I put it on HI, there's not much heat in the air to the feet. I think I've found the two hoses that run down to the heater in the cabin, filled with water hose to get rid of air pockets. I would like a schematic of the cooling/heater hoses. And now the tricky bit. This car was installed with Webasto heater from new. Doesn't work, wires just hanging when I got the car, so I'm slowly removing it. I know that part of what it does is heat water and circulate to cabin, maybe now it stops circulation. So I need a schematic of the original hoses so I can spot the perhaps not WAD part. Currently, when car warms up in garage, all hoses get to be hot, except the two going to the heater

A/C works fine on hot and not too cold days. But really cold days, not enough heat

 

This any use?

 

Very useful thanks
I think I've sorted the second half of my issue, after a pressure hose through the loop to the heater, a clogg came out I think, freer flow and the hoses themselves hotter to touch. So enought heat in the cabin, good.
I still think it's very very slow to heat up, the engine, despite new thermostat. Compared to other cars (and if gauge is of value), I have to drive twice as far...

 

@ astromorg : Would you by any chance have such a nice coolant flow diagram also for the S-Type 3.0L (after second facelift, i.e. 2004 onwards)?

 

For you and your S Type Peter

 

Hi again. I have 7 cars, but the X-Type sees the most mileage, and so far no major problems, even got it MOTd. But now my display is gone. I have the big display with navigation. Now it's black, the small display below reads 50 51 and sometimes C1. All the buttons around it don't work, I have full heat in the car :-(
The radio worked, but had battery disconnected to try to fix, didn't work, so now radio wants a code I assume, but with no display, I can't give it.

Any obvious place to start the fault finding?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...screen-243998/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-5716/page26/

 

Yes indeed, fixed

 

👍

 

I’ve been getting “Gearbox fault” and “Cruise not available” on most drives lately. Cruise is available however. And gearbox works so that I can use the car, so I had written both errors off as computer malfunction. But today I discovered that it seems to be reluctant to shift into top gear (5th?), it takes more speed than before IIRC. And the S button and moving shifter to the left, IIRC that always meant a lower gear, now none of those seem to have any effect.

What could have led to this? In previous months the shifter seems to have gotten so worn so the shift gate “isn’t long enough”, it’s very difficult to adjust (outside under gearbox) so I have both Park and Drive, and R is in the notch, but it adjusted perfectly right now, and have been perfect for weeks. So whether this has any impact on my new two error messages, I don’t know.

I’ve googled a bit, found many similar error descriptions, but not exactly this. Any idea where I should start..?

Thanks

 

Any input?
It's also started to send ice cold air in when it should be hot, have to put it in HI to get lukewarm air.

 

As no one else replies: Gearbox fault: Have you been loosing transmission fluid? Are there transmission fluid "patches" on the concrete, where you park your car? If the transmission fluid level is too low, the transmission (gearbox) will start to "play up". Note: If you do not have any transmission fluid in you Jatco JF506E, the car will not move at all (I tried that!)
Sadly, there is no transmission level stick like an oil stick, but you can cut yourself an approx. 30cm long about 3-4mm wide "stick" out of thin sheet metal (I sacrificed an old metal ruler, cutting a bit off and this you can carefully "stuff in" by the hole, where you fill in the fluid (under the battery). The problem is that you would not know exactly, where the fluid level should be. Maybe someone else would have an idea for that...
But definitely do not make the mistake of opening a bolt on the side of the transmission behind the wheel arch liner: If you do this, there s is good chance that you'll eliminate you reverse gear. "Theoretically there is a fluid check level plug under the car where the cable from the gear-selector comes in, where you check the fluid level while the engine is running and the car is elevated level. When the level is right, the fluid should drip out lightly. I say theoretically, because I do not trust the accuracy of that at all.
I have actually just removed my transmission from my 2.5l X-Type, replaced all the seals everywhere, because the REAR crankshaft seal was leaking engine oil. And while everything should have been fine thereafter, I have now a MASSIVE transmission fluid leak from the area next to the rear crankshaft seal (i.e. on the transmission side, hence, next, I have have to remove the transmission AGAIN.
Anyway, removing and utterly emptying the system (including what sits in the torque converter (close to 1L I think), and then filling everything up with close to 8L of the correct transmission fluid is imho the only way of being sure that the fluid level is right, as long as no one, who is 100% sure that he has the correct level and measures it with a DIY stick (see above) measures his fluid level and tell everyone else - maybe I can tell you in a few month...

Problems with cruise control: That happens on the X-Type. One of my X-Type has this issue sometimes, the other one only when the headlights are on - and that only since I added DTRL (daytime running light) - I guess the system did not appreciate my way of wiring the DTRL...

 

Thanks Peter. I'm quite sure it's not fluid. No puddles, and filled up correctly when I bought it.

 

OK, time for status. I haven't been able to give my X-Type and your answers the right attention, because I was given a rusty non-starter S-Type that I've now fixed, ready for MOT :-)

In the X-Type, I think I have proper heat now, coolant was quite low, don't know why, no leaks, and engine never overheats, oil looks fine. Filled it up, heat is a lot better

So probably the only issue left is my Gearbox Fault/Cruise not available. I do think I still have all gears, and I know cruise works, but those messages often come immediately after I put it in D. Moving lever to the left does nothing, S button does nothing.

I've gotten the following faults:
P0706 Transmission range sensor circuit range/performance
P1780 D-4 switch circuit malfunction/Transmission switch circuit out of self test range

Some history:
Months ago I began not being able to start unless I held the stick forward. It would start in N. So as if moving stick forward didn't fully get into P range. Later after adjusting below the transmission, it wouldn't engage D. It was as if the range available of stick movement was not enough. In the end I took off the thingy under the transmission, cut it and welded together shorter, that meant that any stick movement would translate into more movement on the lever below the transmission. And it did, I could now adjust so that I had no problems getting it in P or D. Problem solved. I thought. Because soon after, the messages arrived as described above.
So maybe my bush repair was not a good idea? The car drives, but...

Thanks