So I went ahead and did the transfer case fluid today. Decided to do a short little write up, because of all the write ups that I've found so far, there are always small details left out.

It was actually really easy. Mine's a 2004, so I don't know if it's the early or later version, but access was not a problem. I jacked the front up and just used a standard plain old ratchet wrench with an extension to open the drain. No socket needed, the end of the extension goes right into the drain plug. The little ball isn't a problem.





If you're wondering where the plug is, it's exactly opposite of where the drain plug is on an MTX. In other words, lay on your back, crawl under the front of the car, look at the MTX drain plug, now look to the right.

Anyway, I got all ready with the catch pan underneath and opened the drain plug, and out came.... nothing. Bone dry.


Nothing...








The drain plug had a lot of fine metal shavings, but not more than I would have expected.







I jacked up the passenger side as high as I felt comfortable with, and still nothing came out of the hole.
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I actually jacked it up a few more inches after I took that pic, and still nothing.

So I cobbled together some brass fittings and a on/off valve that I had laying around. I'm bad with measuring, so unfortunately I can't tell you what size the peices were. I just eyeball stuff and see if it fits. So I threaded a reducer in the hole, and then another reducer into that, and then the valve and then a hose barb. The fittings are actually pnuematic I think, I found them all in a drawer in my garage and they were all brand new. I just used regular pipe tape to wrap the threads.



The cooling fins off the body of the TC made it a little tough to crank everything down. At one point I was having a hard time with the second reducer, but it all went in nice and snug eventually. I did need to remove the handle from the valve, and grind down the stud a little. I left enough so that I could still grab it with needle nose pliers to open and close the valve.




After the first two reducers were in there snug, I threaded the valve and hose barb in. No problems there.




That's when I stopped taking pics, but from there all I did was stick a length of 7/16 clear tubing (bought from Lowes for less than a buck) and ran it up to the top of the engine bay, put in about 550 ml or so of Mobil1 synthetic gear lube and that was pretty much it. By the time it was done there was fluid going up about three inches up the tube. I just closed the valve with some needle nose pliers, yanked the tubing off, and let those three inches or so drip out of the tube into the pan.

I really don't know exactly how much fluid I put in. I think it was around 550 ml. Again, I always forget to measure stuff. But that sucker was bone dry, so I don't think I overfilled it.

Anyway, I then took it for a short drive, didn't notice any improvment, but I guess it's good peice of mind knowing at least that there is now fluid in it.

Total time: 1 hour.
Cost:
Mobil 1 synthetic gear lb - $19.99 from local Autozone
Tubing: $1 from Lowes
Fittings and valve: $0 - found them laying around in a drawer.

I pretty much planned from the beginning to leave the valve in there permanently. I'll check it every other day for leaks for the next week or so, but I just couldn't see fighting with trying to get it out and get the drain plug back in and loosing a bunch of fluid in the process. This just seems much easier. I didn't even get dirty.

Anyway +1 more X-Type that had no fluid in the TC at 80K.

 

Interesting write-up, thanks Punk. My '07 Sportwagon has 94K+ and I have noticed a grinding or rubbing noise coming from somewhere around the firewall for the past 15K or so, steadily louder but can't hear it from the outside. My Jag tech tells me the AWD transmission is a "sealed system" that never needs fluid changing - can't even check it with a dipstick. I've reported this noise problem for the past 3 visits or so, but they insist there is nothing wrong. It seems to make itself evident when coasting/engine-braking, never during accel. When idling, usually there is a faint "tick-tick-tick" coming from behind the dash. I have found a relationship between the ticking when idling and the grinding noise when braking. So what is the problem? I've read about "prop shafts" and transfer cases, but I'm not mechanically inclined to know what could be making the noise. The engine runs great otherwise - transmission shifts all 6 gears smoothly with no bumping or slipping. Any advice?

 

Very good..So much for the "Filled For Life" BS Ford/Jaguar was telling everyone when they sold us these cars, eh...

Anyway..Now that you have some Lube in there for sure..run it for a 1000 miles and do the same thing you just did again..this will give it a good flush.

BTW..remember the original drain plug will catch the metal particals and your valve thingy will not..just saying..

 

Yeah, I plan to drain and fill again in a month or so.

And yeah, I know the plug has the advantage of being magnetic, but I just don't feel like fighting to get the plug back in.

 

You can try what I did..

I jacked the car up on the driver's side real high (it looks like you have the same floor jack as I do)..Anyway..Jack it up as High as you dare and put in the fresh lube (I used 600ml, because I knew I was gonna lose some transfering back to the original drain plug..But if you have everything layed out, the transfer is smooth and you lose just a small amount of lube in the process..

 

Great write up I have to do this to my 2002 X Type.

 

What do you guys use as a jacking point for the front of the car? Seems like there are no sturdy points under the front of the vehicle.

Also when filling the TC, do you have the car sitting level, or do you have the car jacked up on the fill-hole side?

Thanks.