Every time that has happend to me it was a siezed caliper, drive for a mile and then carefully check each rotor for excess heat. If you have a siezed caliper the rotor will be screaming hot. I've never had a master cylinder do anything like that. I've had the master go and it is no brakes at all.

 

nlmay, just to ask a silly question, but when you apply the e-brake when you park, do you notice the first part of applying the e-brake to be very easy and then the e-brake gets harder the higher you pull up. There should be a little bit of drag right off the bat, but if you are getting no resistance, this is what I inquiring about.

If you do get very little/no resistance initially, then odds are you have a caliper that is sticking. If you do have this issue, then engage the e-brake. You will then want to lift up the car (like you were changing tires) but look under the car between the front seats. You will see where the e-brake comes out under the car and the single cable splits to 2. This bar will more than likely be pointing back towards one of the rear tires. The tire it is pointing to is the one with the seized caliper. If you do have this, you can atleast for the moment pull off the wheel from the caliper in question, then using a large flat tip screw driver, you can push the e-brake lever towards the back bumper to release the e-brake. Then you can drive home without an issue as long as you don't engage the e-brake. I am going on caliper #3 with my car and all 3 calipers have failed due to the e-brake mechanism siezing.

If you need more info, let me know.

 

Having a issue after changing my rear pads on my xtype - the caliper frozed - I release pressure by slightly bleeding the break line - but worried about this damaging my axle or rear differential - please if some one has a sulution - while turnin the piston I did have a problem with the rubber - but was able to push & turn back -

 

After replacing the rear calipers and pads my brakes were locking up. I'm a Quality Engineer so I was determined to understand. After a lot of experimenting I ended up with the booster and master cylinder.
The master cylinder was opened up and it's aluminum with a sliding plunger AND check valve. The check valve needs to touch a pin and only has about 3/16" travel. (You can actually remove the reservoir, small disk and fluid to see the check valve touch the pin. But I did this only after removal and reinstall onto the car.)
Why was my check valve not touching the pin? Since my car has about 120K the springs in the master and /or booster had gotten weak and the booster was barely keeping the check valve from actuating. Vacuum moves the check valve away from the trigger pin when the car runs and if you don't spring back the check valve stays shut thus locking the brakes.
You are in luck. The booster plunger can be adjusted by pressing the brake to extend it while the master is removed. (A 24" board between the seat and pedal help!)I used vice grips to hold on part of it and a wrench to adjust it. They appear to be glued together but I won. Perhaps my small torch helped. After adjusting as far as possible everything was back to normal -- almost. Once the brakes worked again the switch on the brake pedal was not contacting. This was fixed McGiver style with some stick on spacer(s) to trigger the brake pedal switch.
Why did changing pads cause a new problem of wheel locking up? My guess is there was some air in the lines that was eliminated during caliper bleeding.
Good luck to ya.