MAF at idle X-Type 2d
Hi
Does anyone know what the MAF reading(s) is at idle on a well running X-Type 2d ? I've vibration at idle and a fluctuating MAF reading - from 4.5gs to 8gs which seems very high. Have changed MAF but no difference.
Thanks
BMcG
Does anyone know what the MAF reading(s) is at idle on a well running X-Type 2d ? I've vibration at idle and a fluctuating MAF reading - from 4.5gs to 8gs which seems very high. Have changed MAF but no difference.
Thanks
BMcG
Are you getting any fault codes? Look at EGR and maybe try a clean up of inlet. Ive got a fault in there somewhere, keeps throwing the engine in limp mode, but Ive a horrible feeling its electrical wiring, something shorting or not connecting right. I'm looking for the wiring diagram to check the readings on each pin, the problem is its very intermittent.
Hi
Thanks for suggestion. I have no codes. The only time I ever got limp mode was a faulty turbo actuator and this is a common fault. When you stop the engine and restart, the limp mode/ engine warning light goes away but comes again on next time the same fault re-occurs. You can get a 'Plug and Play' replacement for as little as £60 on ebay. Very easy to install. Just don't lose the tiny fastener that holds on the actuator arm.
If you release the arm on your existing actuator you can check if it moves freely backwards and forwards. They can become stiff due to build up of carbon on turbo vanes within the turbo. This puts pressure on the actuator and it fails as a result. There is a utube video on cleaning the turbo vanes with Mr Muscle without dismantling the turbo.
Hope this helps. What code are u getting?
Thanks for suggestion. I have no codes. The only time I ever got limp mode was a faulty turbo actuator and this is a common fault. When you stop the engine and restart, the limp mode/ engine warning light goes away but comes again on next time the same fault re-occurs. You can get a 'Plug and Play' replacement for as little as £60 on ebay. Very easy to install. Just don't lose the tiny fastener that holds on the actuator arm.
If you release the arm on your existing actuator you can check if it moves freely backwards and forwards. They can become stiff due to build up of carbon on turbo vanes within the turbo. This puts pressure on the actuator and it fails as a result. There is a utube video on cleaning the turbo vanes with Mr Muscle without dismantling the turbo.
Hope this helps. What code are u getting?
I'm getting an array of different codes, and some dont exist which is why I'm edging towards electrical wiring, as I was working around the loom area when replaced crank and tensioner etc, and when I move the wires the codes / limp mode goes. I need to start fault finding but need to know what voltage etc at what pins should be there.
The codes Ive had last reading were
C2B10 No idea what is
B1F41 As above
P009F is set by the PCM when the Fuel Pressure Relief Control Circuit stuck in the on position. The PCM monitors the fuel pressure regulator and opens the fuel pressure relief valve to return excess fuel back to the fuel supply system.
B1F00 No idea what it is
I do need to sort this out really before the MOT is due in a month but spent so much on it now, bit like our economy I'm in too deep to give up...
The codes Ive had last reading were
C2B10 No idea what is
B1F41 As above
P009F is set by the PCM when the Fuel Pressure Relief Control Circuit stuck in the on position. The PCM monitors the fuel pressure regulator and opens the fuel pressure relief valve to return excess fuel back to the fuel supply system.
B1F00 No idea what it is
I do need to sort this out really before the MOT is due in a month but spent so much on it now, bit like our economy I'm in too deep to give up...
Thanks HexType
I've had some success with my vibration at idle. I've replaced the disintegrated rubber sleeve that attaches to the turbo's air intake snout - with a good one. It was worn out from heat, oil contamination and over-tightening in vain attempt to eliminate any air leak. This has given a very noticeable reduction in the level of engine vibration at idle and I think I'll get it even better by tightening up the 19mm engine breather tube that connects from the valve cover to the air duct. There is a later type of turbo snout sleeve which is much stronger - but you need the later modified air duct to go with it, i.e you can't use the original type of duct with the newer sleeve.
Sorry I can't help you with your codes - it's a bit out of my depth. All I can say is:
(a) I'm not aware there is any 'pressure relief valve' in the system. There is an inlet metering ( or "suction control") valve attached to the pump and it controls how much fuel the pump takes in. It's easily replaced if it goes bad and throws a code but it would not be the code you are getting according to what I have read.
(b) If the fault goes when you move wires then it looks very likely that it is a wiring issue. The only advice I can give you, from personal experience, is that you could spend ages looking in vain for a wiring issue only to find that that an auto-electrician could trace and fix it very quickly. If you've spent much time on it already, and need the car fixed soon for the MOT, your best course might be to take it to a reputable/trustworthy electrician - ideally one who knows the engine in the X-Type or the Mondeo Mk3.
Good luck
BMcG
I've had some success with my vibration at idle. I've replaced the disintegrated rubber sleeve that attaches to the turbo's air intake snout - with a good one. It was worn out from heat, oil contamination and over-tightening in vain attempt to eliminate any air leak. This has given a very noticeable reduction in the level of engine vibration at idle and I think I'll get it even better by tightening up the 19mm engine breather tube that connects from the valve cover to the air duct. There is a later type of turbo snout sleeve which is much stronger - but you need the later modified air duct to go with it, i.e you can't use the original type of duct with the newer sleeve.
Sorry I can't help you with your codes - it's a bit out of my depth. All I can say is:
(a) I'm not aware there is any 'pressure relief valve' in the system. There is an inlet metering ( or "suction control") valve attached to the pump and it controls how much fuel the pump takes in. It's easily replaced if it goes bad and throws a code but it would not be the code you are getting according to what I have read.
(b) If the fault goes when you move wires then it looks very likely that it is a wiring issue. The only advice I can give you, from personal experience, is that you could spend ages looking in vain for a wiring issue only to find that that an auto-electrician could trace and fix it very quickly. If you've spent much time on it already, and need the car fixed soon for the MOT, your best course might be to take it to a reputable/trustworthy electrician - ideally one who knows the engine in the X-Type or the Mondeo Mk3.
Good luck
BMcG
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