Misfire codes
#1
Misfire codes
Hello all, I hope someone here can steer me in the right direction. Recently my 02 X-Type (2.5L) has had problems when it is first started with low / random idle and misfiring. The check engine light also started flashing. I checked it with my code reader and am getting misfires on cylinders 2, 4 and 6. There are a total of 6 codes, but I cant remember the other ones with now because I'm at work. I think there was also one about it running lean. When I get home I will post all of the codes. In the meantime can anyone make any suggestions about this issue? I am thinking the PCV hose, which I will check tonight, but I thought it was kinda strange that I was getting misfires on 2, 4 and 6 instead of all of them it it is this hose. Is there anything that would cause a misfire on just these cylinders and not the other three? Thanks in advance for any help that you call can provide.
#2
Maybe coil packs. I'd check the vacuum sources first though. There really are four common points for vacuum leaks on our cars through the top end:
1. IMT O-Rings
2. Brake booster line
3. Intake plenum gaskets
4. PCV hose
This certainly aren't ALL points of possible failure but may help you along the way. Really listen under the hood for any vacuum leaks and you should be able to spot them.
Checking and replacing the PCV hose is really easy. Just remove the screws holding on the plastic top engine cover and is right there on your right. If its the old non ribbed/reinforced hose without clamps, get a new one. Even if its not cracked or split yet, it eventually will.
For the other sources, search around here for detailed instructions as they aren't too bad either.
Good luck!
1. IMT O-Rings
2. Brake booster line
3. Intake plenum gaskets
4. PCV hose
This certainly aren't ALL points of possible failure but may help you along the way. Really listen under the hood for any vacuum leaks and you should be able to spot them.
Checking and replacing the PCV hose is really easy. Just remove the screws holding on the plastic top engine cover and is right there on your right. If its the old non ribbed/reinforced hose without clamps, get a new one. Even if its not cracked or split yet, it eventually will.
For the other sources, search around here for detailed instructions as they aren't too bad either.
Good luck!
#3
#4
#6
Look for a vacuum leak on that side of the engine. O2 sensors look for oxygen in the exhaust. A misfire will send more oxygen and thus read lean. If you are careful, things like carb cleaner sprayed by suspected vacuum leaks will change the idle speed and let you know where the problem is. A fire extinguisher is handy when working on a running engine.
#7
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zeros, if you are having misfires on the same side of the engine, look at the wiring harness going to those cylinders. Follow it from the coils back to where the wire bundle meets up with the other side. All 6 of the coils are powered from the same source, but the wire gets split to the front and rear banks. So, the wire feeding the cylinders in question more than likely has an issue. It will be the red/white wire going to the coils. Probably also want to check the black wire as this is the ground wire going to each coil. Again, all the wires from that side of the engine run together back to a common point for the entire engine.
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#8
I JUST fixed this problem on mine last week. I would put some strong money on the line that its your upper or lower intake seals. They cost $18.99 and $16.99 for each set at Autozone (mine is a 3.0L X-type, so they may be more or less). Get both as they seem to squish overtime and let air leak in. I highly recommend doing both simultaneously as its really 4 extra screws.
The manifold is held in by about 9 bolts, one's hidden in the back, there are two holding a wiring loom that need loosened in the back as well. You need to undo the 4 holding the throttle body as well. One is underneath the throttle body. 4 more and some more around the fuel injectors to get to the lowers.
Just make sure you mark where the bolts go cause there are a few different lengths. I also recommend getting a brush in there and scrubbing out and carbon build-up. When installing the seals, I applied petroleum jelly into the cavity and around the seal to help it stick and keep any friction down when reinstalling.
The manifold is held in by about 9 bolts, one's hidden in the back, there are two holding a wiring loom that need loosened in the back as well. You need to undo the 4 holding the throttle body as well. One is underneath the throttle body. 4 more and some more around the fuel injectors to get to the lowers.
Just make sure you mark where the bolts go cause there are a few different lengths. I also recommend getting a brush in there and scrubbing out and carbon build-up. When installing the seals, I applied petroleum jelly into the cavity and around the seal to help it stick and keep any friction down when reinstalling.
#9
Well, I got it figured out. My PCV hose wasn't cracked...it was broken in two pieces! I installed the new one and did the IMT rings while I was at it. $24 later and my Jaguar is running great again. It is all thanks to the members here and their great info and pictures. Before I joined this morning I was thinking I was going to need spark plugs or coil packs or injectors and was not too happy about that. Thanks again for the easy fix!
#10
I JUST fixed this problem on mine last week. I would put some strong money on the line that its your upper or lower intake seals. They cost $18.99 and $16.99 for each set at Autozone (mine is a 3.0L X-type, so they may be more or less). Get both as they seem to squish overtime and let air leak in. I highly recommend doing both simultaneously as its really 4 extra screws.
The manifold is held in by about 9 bolts, one's hidden in the back, there are two holding a wiring loom that need loosened in the back as well. You need to undo the 4 holding the throttle body as well. One is underneath the throttle body. 4 more and some more around the fuel injectors to get to the lowers.
Just make sure you mark where the bolts go cause there are a few different lengths. I also recommend getting a brush in there and scrubbing out and carbon build-up. When installing the seals, I applied petroleum jelly into the cavity and around the seal to help it stick and keep any friction down when reinstalling.
The manifold is held in by about 9 bolts, one's hidden in the back, there are two holding a wiring loom that need loosened in the back as well. You need to undo the 4 holding the throttle body as well. One is underneath the throttle body. 4 more and some more around the fuel injectors to get to the lowers.
Just make sure you mark where the bolts go cause there are a few different lengths. I also recommend getting a brush in there and scrubbing out and carbon build-up. When installing the seals, I applied petroleum jelly into the cavity and around the seal to help it stick and keep any friction down when reinstalling.
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