I bought an Xtype used for my son and trying to get it sorted. Codes are multiple misfires on 2, 4, and 6 and I've had it smoke checked for vacuum leaks and swapped plugs and coils and gaskets. Here's the weird one. When almost out of fuel it runs great, no misfires and as soon as I put fuel in misfires immediately. Run gas down to darn near out and no limp mode.

Second issue is seems clutch pedal moves a bit at the top like slop before u push in to engage. Is there an adjustment?

I'll have quite a few more questions but let's get larger ones first. Thx all

 

Wow. 156 views with no comments? Also battery checked out as well as alternater but batt light is on. Terminals were warm but but boil water hot. I'll be checking with ohm meter tomorrow morn.

Started car a tonight and no limp mode for 3 - 5 mins and when something warmed up it went into limp. I also got cat codes. Don't remember which ones possible damage?

The really wierd one is low fuel level and runs out of limp mode?? Anyone ever seen that one?

 

I am sure they are not intentionally ignoring you, but few people have any experience with hydraulic clutches, in the US, because there were very very few manual transmission cars imported, and your fuel problem is a real thinker.

As for the freeplay in the clutch pedal, what exactly is the problem? Are you talking about the plastic bushings for the clutch pedal being worn out, or the clutch pedal not returning, or returning completely and there being no feeling of contact for a little bit with the pedal when pushing the clutch down? If it is a wobbly pedal, I would look up under the dash, and see if it is bushings, or the structure is cracking off somewhere. As for the other stuff, I would have the clutch system bled. Unless you have or purchase a pressure bleeder, there is no way for a mere mortal to bleed a clutch, and have decent results, unless you use the method I am going to teach you.

First thing....Pull the clutch pedal all the way up. If it won't stay up, tie it up to the steering wheel with some string. If the clutch slave cylinder is external, remove it from the trans, and disconnect it from the hydraulic line. Plug off the hydraulic line, with a vacuum plug, so you don't lose all your hydraulic fluid. Take the slave cylinder, and open the bleeder. With compressed air, GENTLY!! put air through the bleeder, so the slave cylinder is extended all the way out. Fill the reservoir, with the correct hydraulic fluid, and keep it full through the rest of the process.

Attach the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder, and let the slave cylinder hang or hold on to it, so the bleeder hole is pointing up, and the slave cylinder is angled up towards the bleeder. Let it gravity bleed, unless you have a power bleeder, with the cylinder still extended all the way out, until nothing but fluid is coming out the bleeder. It is messy. With the bleeder still in the upright position close the bleeder.

I don't know how a Jaguar slave cylinder is attached, so you are going to get the Porsche 928 method. Get two longer bolts of the same thread size as the bolts originally holding the slave cylinder to the bell housing. Put the slave cylinder rod in the throw out bearing arm pocket. Put the longer bolts in the slave cylinder, and start to bolt it to the bell housing. There will be pressure there, because you will be pushing any excess fluid through the line, into the clutch master cylinder, through a line into the reservoir.

Once you get the slave cylinder in far enough to start the normal bolts, replace them one at a time, because you will still have pressure there from the clutch trying to push back. Secure the bolts, and you should have a clutch pedal without air in the lines.

I was touted as a savior on one of the 928 forums, because they were taking the entire clutch hydraulic system out of their cars, and hanging it on the wall, to get all the air out. It was pretty funny.

If you have a slave cylinder that is internal, all I can tell you, is to have it pressure bled, in position. The bleeders on those are often facing in any direction, but up. If you try to foot bleed them even a little at a time, you will end up with a clutch master cylinder all the way in, because the only spring the whole clutch system has is the pressure from the clutch, and a small spring in the slave cylinder.

I have seen reasonable success, by forcing clutch fluid through the bleeder, until you have no more bubbles coming into the reservoir, but that can be super messy also, if you don't watch the reservoir level.

Your next problem is going to be spit balled here, by anyone with an idea, because it is unusual. I am thinking fuel pump screen, where the crud would fall away as the level dropped, or fuel pump. It is extremely hard to diagnose something like this from a distance. My 07 3 litre X Type doesn't have a pressure tap on the line the injectors are attached to, so you can take a fuel pressure reading. That would help a lot with your situation. I wish I could be down in Georgia to get my hands dirty with you, but maybe someone else will step up, that as had the same or similar problem.......Be cool...Mike

 

I haven't checked fuel pressure yet but that's my next move. I'd like to find a live scanner that tells me real time what's going on but I'll take what I can get. I'm guessing I'm losing fuel pressure on the main pump somehow and that after the fuel level drops below a certain level is picked up by a reserve pump? I spoke to one guy who said this is likely on my system and if you're right about crud pickup atleast I save a lil cheese on not buying a pump?
So mike, you're a Pcar guy too, eh? I've got a 64c 356 cab, few 911s and an 84 euro 928s 5 sp. Thx for the clutch help. I Already own a lift but still in parts till we start on garage this week. I cant wait till I can raise one instead of jacking and crawling as I do now. Getting older and working on the ground sux.
I'll tackle the clutch after lift installed. Or sooner if my son doesn't learn his clutch starting out on a hill. LoL
I'll post what I find asap and if anyone has other ideas on misfire Lmk. Also fyi misfires are only on forward bank which thickens the soup cause why if the pump is weak would it ONLY misfire on one bank or cut out injectors on one bank?
Thanks mike!