So I've tried looking for this problem but wasn't able to find anything very similar.

When I start my car it stays on for a second but then promptly dies,then on the second try it starts and stays on(never had to do it more than twice). I also founda way of keeping the car on by holding the gas pedal down all the way, which keeps the car "reving"between 2000 and 3000 rpm for a few seconds (it kind of sounds like the car is fighting to stall, and it won't go over 3000 rpm) and once the problem is over it revs absolutely fine. BTW the car runs great once it's on with no problems whatsoever.
Also this doesn't happen all the time, but when it does the check engine light and battery lights come up. (why would the battery light turn on??)

Thanks very much for the help, this is my first time with a technical question, so I apologize if I'm not very clear.

 

Well Im no expert but here is what I would do if my car was having those problems.


It sounds like an electrical problem over a mechanical problem as mechanical problems are usually consistent, and this one sounds intermittent.

Does the problem go away once the car warms up?

Unplug tha battery for about 30 seconds to reset the ECU. Then start the car again. If it does it, try and pull the codes. This is typically done by shorting a circuit somewhere in a fusebox and watching for a signal indicator. A Chiltons/BGB should have a translation for any cryptic notation the car may give back at you.

Sorry I couldnt be much help

 

First of all, dont try and short anything out to get the code. The CEL on your car wont work that way. If the check engine light and battery light come on like that it is because it thinks the car died.
Could you please provide some pertinent info such as year of vehicle, engine, auto/manual trans etc.
How long have you had it. Happen every time you start the car? Hot/Cold start?

 

Thank you both for the help.
The year of my car is 2003, 2.5 with manual transmission, 73k miles.
I've had the car for about 14 months, it doesn't happen everytime usually when the car is cold, and when I say cold I mean like in the mornings when the temperature outside is about 65 degrees. Very rarely does it happen when the car has already been running.

 

If it is enough to blip on the CEL then it should set a code. Can you swing it by an autozone or something and get the codes read?

Sounds like it may be a battery cable issue or the battery itself. Look at the battery around the negative cable and look for any tiny cracks or corrosion.

 

I don't think it's the battery since I tried my dad's battery and it did it too (he has the exact same battery by the way), I had the codes checked around a week ago and I wrote them down but I can't find the paper, I'm pretty sure they were p0174 and p0171, does that sound right? Sorry about the lack of accuracy and thanks for the help.

 

Then I would start with imt seals, breather hose andbrake booster hose. Even if doesnt fix the starting issue, which it may, it needs to be done.

 

Sorry about the circuit shorting idea. It's just what I've done to cars in the past to get a code and thought it might be a universal trait.

 

No worries Jarod. The modules on Jags are pretty sensitive. Better to say it now so people know, including yourself so as not to turn a cheap repair into thousands for module replacements.

 

Did anyone find a resolution to this? Mine is doing this as well when it is cold, but not all the time. I usually have to wait 4 minutes before attempting to start it again. I've also had it just completely die on the highway after idling around in traffic and then bring it up to 55mph. I coasted to the shoulder, waited 4 minutes and it started up again.

I have had a CEL with two codes, one being the air intake sensor, but that one has sense gone away on its own. The other is the p0430 catalyst efficiency code which still remains today. The Jag dealer said to put in a new catalytic converter. For a car with only 70k miles, i'm debating if that really is the problem or if all this other stuff is somehow linked together. The fact that the car runs very rich upon start-up, it dies, and you have to wait tells me that the fuel system might not be pushing the right amount of fuel through the injectors. It could also explain the low oxygen/high fuel count in bank 2, these aren't carbureted engines. Everything is electronic, and I have no idea what sensor would need replacing or tuning etc.

Anybody with ideas here? Do you think my hypothesis is correct and all of this is somehow linked?

Thanks!