Hello, all, I'm new here..
So I just bought a 2010 "click and deliver" X-Type 2.2D automatic, today and it should be delivered in a few days. I paid under €2000 for it, and it's done about 50,000 miles, and the ad said that it randomly goes into limp mode.

I'm not a mechanic but I've done stuff like wheel bearings, timing belt, alternator, starter, before, (including diagnosing a tricky sticking fuel regulator where the car would randomly cut out at stops after warming up), basically anything that didn't include removing the engine, head or the gearbox. And I've used the ODB Peugeot Planet, Lexia3, ODB diagnostics etc.

So basically what I'm asking is: How do I go about diagnosing the limp mode problem? Can I use one of those cheap ODBII devices to smartphone/laptop or is there a specific/better Jaguar kit? Or something in between?
Or are there any basic checks or common faults to check for this problem? Glow plugs, DPF, EGR, etc?

And any other tips or advice for somebody with a new Jaguar would be welcome..

Thanks..
Joe

 

gijoe50000, I would get the car, take it for a test drive that is easy to see how it runs. Near the end of the run, find a long hill that you can drive up and see what the car will do. That will most likely put you into limp mode (will be noted by the car slowing down and not wanting to go above a certain RPM). Normally you can pull of to the side of the road, turn the car off, wait a few seconds, then restart and that will restore normal driving. At this point, you should have the check engine light. Put in your reader and see what it says. Post the codes here as this will give us a good idea of where the problem lies. Odds are, you have a dirty MAF sensor. Granted, because it is a diesel, your EGR may be suspect too.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a shot when the car arrives.
The only reader I have at the moment is a little ELM 327, I think it only barely worked on my old Peugeot, sometimes, but I mostly used Peugeot Planet with the Lexia cable. Do you reckon the little ODB II will do the job, or is there a better option for Jaguars? Or do Jaguar have their own, special, kit for full diagnostics?
And hopefully the EGR is in a nicer place than on the Peugeot, I had to clean that a few times and it was packed rightly tight down the back of the engine!

 

An ELM works on our X's for most common problems, i.e. vacuum codes, catalytic converter sensors, evap leaks, etc. which are the vast majority of common things that need addressing.

The reader that works REALLY well for all codes including chassis codes, ability to cycle different sensors, relays etc. is iCarSoft i930 or (my preference for just a little more money) is the LRII.

 

Thanks, I'll keep those ones in mind and might give them a shot if needed.
The car arrived this morning anyway and the fault showed up on the second startup. It was the glow plug light and "gearbox fault" and it was a bit jerky going in and out of gear. From the bits I've read up on it so far it could be anything from the turbo to EGR to just a service, or a bit of random poking around and a clean up.
It's actually fine changing gears, automatically, so I assume (hope) it's not a clutch or gearbox problem.
I haven't transferred over my insurance yet from my old car, so I haven't taken it out for a proper spin, but I'll probably give it a proper look over, and a service, before I do as it looks like it might have been sitting around for a while.
I'd be quite happy if it's just a matter of cleaning out the EGR..

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-light-182637/

 

Yes, it was indeed the actuator!
I took out the TCM and had a look at it, and it looks like somebody resoldered it in the past, as it looks like a home job, but it seemed solid. And the continuity seemed fine with a multimeter.



But when putting it back on, the actuator arm wouldn't reach the TCM until I pushed the actuator arm forward with a bit of force, and it seemed slightly sticky towards the end of its travel.
I still had the fault when I restarted, but the next time I restarted the car, the actuator was constantly clicking, so I popped the bonnet and gave the arm a little push forwards and there was a kind of buzzing sound, like a motor humming for a second or two.
Then I hopped back in the car and the warning light was gone! I'd had the flashing glowplug and "gearbox fault" since I got the car a few days ago and that definitely sorted it.
Took it out for a spin and it definitely wasn't in limp mode anymore!
I'm sure the turbo is still probably a bit dirty so I'll find some way of cleaning it over the next day or two. But it's nice to know that it's not a bunch of dying injectors, or clutch, or something messy like that.
There's definitely a crapload more power than in my old 1.6HDi. Definitely liking the car now! :-)

 

You need to undo the actuator arm so can check for turbo vanes sticking.
If so that will cause the glowplug light to flash and limp mode.

Paul.

 

Didn't you read every single word in the whole thread in excruciating detail? Shame on you! :-)
In the last post I mention that I did this, and it was a bit sticky, and working it a bit sorted the problem, at least for a while. I might get some Mr Muscle today and give it a better clean. It's off the road for a while anyway until I do the front brakes and disks, they're grating.
I have the parts and all, but my dumb *** lost the lock-nut key. Think I left it on the nut after taking the wheel off to check the pads. so I have to wait until I get a new one.
I'm an idiot.
Not sure if I have the ***** to tap and thread the turbo though. Might just spray cleaner in the intake and see how it goes for a while.

 

Ok point taken.
Spraying the inlet will do nothing for the turbo vanes.
From experience spraying oven cleaner to the vanes with the drilled and tapped mod works, but I find it lasts only a limited time,i had to repeat the oven cleaner every few months, also the caustic cleaner does seem to promote rusting of the affected area.

I have had good results from using a high quality fuel additive that contains Polyetheramine (PEA), it does decoke the head/pistons and exhaust valves and turbo vanes, as you drive.

Paul.

 

I was only jesting, I don't expect people to read every word.. :-)

But yea, that's a good point I suppose, if the turbo is sticking then there's probably muck in a lot of other places too. I kind of dismissed a fuel additive since I was thinking the turbo takes in clean air, but then it wouldn't be getting built up with crud. I kind of forgot about the EGR and PCV.
I might do one round of Mr. Muscle to the intake to get rid of some of the crap and then maybe give it some fuel additive in a few days.
Might even block off the EGR if that's possible with these models. It caused a bit of chaos with my old Peugeot, with warning lights and having to remap the ECU.

I'm waiting on supplies to give the car a service, especially an oil change and pads and disks, it looks like the last owner neglected it a bit before he got rid of it. Front brakes are worn right down, and I left the bloody lock nut key attached after I checked them, and then lost it on the road!
So I'd like to get it running good before adding a fuel additive and giving it a good run around.

 

Regarding the oven cleaner, this is done by drilling and threading a hole in the manifold on the exhaust side, so that when a straw is inserted from the oven cleaner can, it sprays the cleaner on the turbo outlet side, and this dissolves the hard carbon buildup on the vanes.
Do not spray this on the inlet side.

I would get the high concentrate pea treatment in the fuel, and let it do it's work.
Don't waste your money on the standard weak cleaners, go for BG245 or Archoil AR6400-D, these 2 have high pea content and work well.

Paul.

 

For a Mondeo but, exactly the same for our X's =

 

Ah yes, I didn't realise how "closed off" the two sides were until I looked at a few videos of people who'd stripped down these turbos. Looks like going through the inlet would be futile alright. Thanks!
I would maybe be a little bit scared of drilling the manifold, in case of some shavings getting into the turbo, I assume splitting the turbo and spraying in between probably isn't as easy as I think it is, or people would probably do this instead.

Thanks. Yea I saw a Polish/Russian guy doing this recently, it's definitely in the back of my mind alright; I might just let the idea simmer there for a while before I take the plunge though.
A few years ago, when looking for a cheap car, I came across a Peugeot 407 for really cheap, but it needed the timing belt done, and immediately I thought "No way! That's too big a job for me, too scary!"
But I bought the car anyway, and thought I might get a garage to do the job.
Rang a mechanic and he said "€600".
I might have went with it except the car only cost me €450 and I couldn't bring myself to pay more for a job than the price of the car!
So I just watched a few YouTube videos and did some research, and the more I learned the less scarier it seemed. In the end I did it myself and it was easy. Big job, but I knew exactly what to do, and what could go wrong, etc.

 

The mk3 mondeo turbo and manifold is the same part used on the 2.0 and 2.2 diesels respectively.
To drill a 6.8mm hole in the manifold in situ, I used a cheap 90 degree drill adapter, so I could get in there.
Then I used a m8 tap.

Paul.

 

Yea, I've seen the same turbo on a few Mondeos alright.
I've got a bunch of taps and dies floating around in the shed alright but no idea what threads they are, I think one set is NF, but the rest are random. Don't even know if I even have any bolts to fit them. Probably have to do a bit of experimenting with some scrap before taking the plunge with the car!

 

I have the same problem on my 2.0d. However, if I stop when it goes into limp mode, and restart, I don't get the check engine light. Also, if it goes into limp mode when opening the throttle going up a hill, that is a carbon build-up on the exhaust side of the turbo, jamming the vanes.

 

I ended up doing the Mr. Muscle Tap Trick on mine and it's been fine since. I do still have a check engine light but I think it's a random communication fault with with the TCM, but the car still runs perfect.

 

Yes, that appears to be the easiest cure. Bit worried about swarf falling into the turbo but I'll magnetise the drill and keep putting grease on the tip.

 

I was worried about that too, but I didn't do anything to prevent it other than trying to be a bit slow and careful. My assumption was that nobody else had any problems so it'll probably be fine. But yes, that's probably a wise idea.

One little error I made was I didn't have a right angle drill, so I just drilled down in at a slight angle. But the casing is quite thick and I think the straw ended up pointing down towards the bottom of the vanes, so it took 2 cleaning sessions to get it freed up totally.