Driving home in rain last night engine malfuntion light came on steady. No message on message center. seems to drive ok at steady 50 mph but misfire on acceleration. idles ok. No problem earlier in day. Any help appreciated.

Chris
Ps 2.5 2004 X type auto trany.

 

Hey Pog,

When your Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on, it could be a variety of things (as I experienced a few weeks back).

What I suggest you do, is head over to an Auto Zone or Advance Auto shop - they offer FREE CEL diagnosis. They will give you a print out of the codes that the car's computer will spit out - which will reveal the issue.

When you get that, please post it here, or look them up - there are TONS of posts regarding codes from a CEL.

I hope its something simple or inexpensive to fix...

 

Thanks Mr Mayor,
Problem is I live in the UK and the only place near me that could check this out is the main dealer, and I would probably have to sell the car to pay for it! I am seriously thinking of buying my own code reader, I am sure it would pay for itself in the long run. Where do they plug in? I have not seen an empty socket anywhere under the hood. My light is still on, but it drives fine now, as it always did, no misfire or anything. I have checked all the usual things like vac hoses etc, and listened for hissing noises around the inlet manifold, but all seems ok. Does the light go out if the fault goes away, or do you have to reset the computer with the reader? Car has only done 68k and has been well looked after, I have only had it a short time and this is my first problem, but I am determined to get to the bottom of it. I am hoping for something cheap and simple too! Regards Chris

 

Hi Chris

I am in the uk too. Dont know about your problem but I bought one of these off ebay not so long back. Not sure if this is the same seller. Search and research an elm327
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELM-327-USB-1-...item2eb0de2e87

install software on laptop and plug usb lead from laptop to car. The plug for the diagnostics is in the car somewhere. I have not used mine yet!!! typical.
I think its under the steering column or somewhere like that. I have seen it but cant remember right now.
The device can show you error codes and you can reset. Just wont tell you what the codes mean. Thats where this forum and the UK jag forum come in. Everyone on here and the other (non related site jaguarforum.co.uk) site are extremely helpful!!!

Hope it helps

 

Thanks Bolly
I will let you know how I got on, when I get the codes and maybe someone can translate them for me. Chris

 

Hi Poglix...

When you say misfire...does it say cruise not available along with the CEL??? And if it does, does it misfire on rapid accel or just light accel??

 

Hi <3 X-Type
As I mentioned in an earlier post, the misfire has now disappeared and it is running fine with no problems I can detect. The CEL light is still on, and when it originally happened there was no message on the message center. Misfire was only on hard acceleration. I have ordered a ODB11 reader off flebay so I should have it within the next few days. I have found a socket just under the edge of the dash, drivers side RHD, is this the ODB11 socket? Chris.

 

Ok...when you did a hard acceleration did it cut out almost? Or bog? Reason im sayin is mine did this same thing only it had cruise not available which is refered to as limp mode. But same symptoms. It turned out to be a vacuum leak thru the IMT valves in the intake. Those black circular discs on the passenger side of the intake. They have o-rings inside that harden dry rot and crack. They are like 3 bucks a peice and you need 2 of them. Top/Bottom. Takes like 10 min.

ONLY dif was mine said cruise not available.

My cruise not available would not stay on but the CEL would. Then would run good. Im pretty sure this is your problem.

And yes thats the port for the diagnostic.

 

Hi I <3 X-Type
In answer to your last post the misfire was "jerky" as though it was cutting out very briefly. Only happened once, and I drove home about 20 miles at between 40 and 60 MPH with no other problem. It was raining hard and the car had stood out in the rain for most of the day, I wondered if it could have been water getting in the electric's somewhere. The problem occoured shortly after setting off home. I have checked for air leaks around IMT valves, I listen with an old doctors stethoscope around the join's where the O rings are. No loud hissing can be heard anywhere around the inlet manifold area. I have checked all the usual vac pipes for splits etc and can find nothing wrong. I have just received my OBD11 scanner so once I have figured out how to use it I should have some codes for you to decypher! Chris.

 

Only code i could retrieve was P1000 $11 CEL light is still on but no other probs. Any ideas? Chris.

 

Use the scanner to clear the code, light will go out. If it returns you know there is an issue. Could simply be your gasket on the gas cap.

Also stick you head under the hood (bonnet) and see if you hear a hissing noise, you might have a small crack in one of your vacuum hoses. That will spit out a CEL as well.

 

Update on my problems. I think I was getting the P1000 code because I had disconected the battery previously and probably wiped the memory. I drove it around for a couple of days CEL still on but no other probs. Then I rechecked with the OBD11 tester and found P1647 and P1111 had been set. This I think refers to a O2 sensor on bank 2. Because of the heavy rain I drove through, mentioned in an earlier post, I deceided to check all O2 sensor connectors. I disconnected each one cleaned and sprayed with WD40, reconnected everything, but CEL was still on. Took it out and drove it about for an hour, and lo and behold the Cel light went out. I hope it stays that way, if not I will have to look at the O2 sensors again. Does anyone know which one is the most likely culprit? Chris.

 

I believe P1647 is the upstream sensor on bank 2. The heated one - they don't last forever. On my old x-type, abrasion from a belt damaged the cable & if you try & solder a broken wire - the resistance changes and it won't work. Usually though, the heater element burns out. Always use a genuine denso part, I tried a cheap alternative & it lasted 3 months. On the misfires, try setting your climate control to manual. When set to auto, the AC compressor is repeatedly kicking in - that can cause misfire on acceleration. Very cheap solution that worked for me! P1111 just means that you need to complete a drive cycle, so the ECU can "re-learn" after a battery disconnection.

 

8 year old thread

 

That'll teach me to check the dates before I post!