Hello, I’m brand new to Jaguar ownership having just bought a 2003 X-type project with 109K miles, a manual transmission, and a bad 2.5L engine that I plan on swapping out for a used one. I’ve search the forum and downloaded and read the JTIS service manual, but I still have some questions regarding the purchasing of a used engine that I need some expert advice on:
I’ve seen posts that say you need to buy the ECU and ignition key with the used engine, but I wonder why I can’t just hook up the new engine to the existing wire harness. At worst I might need to swap some sensors and transfer some of the ancillaries.
Assuming the used engine comes with its flywheel, I was thinking of trying to get an engine from a manual tranny car to make the swap a little easier, but are there other differences I need to know about if I get an auto tranny engine, such as does the same starter fit both (believe answer is yes based on part catalogs).
Should I stick to the same 2003 year due to changes in sensors or other equipment or what year range do I need to stay within – 2002 to 2005?
I am going to try and find an engine with less than75K miles, but beside standard gaskets, what all items are known problem areas on these engines that would need addressed before installing the used engine?
Thanks,
Dave

 

Wal74, to the best of my knowledge, as long as you are replacing on the engine, there is no need to replace the ECU and/or the ignition key. Those are completely independent of the engine and only feed signals to various sensors. The sensors are not "keyed" to the ECU. The ignition key is specific to the ECU, so, yes, you have to make allowances for that. But, there is nothing on the engine that is specific to a particular ECU.

As for engines, you should be good for the whole 2002-2008 series. Nothing significantly changed on that engine in those years. So, find an engine, swap it in and call it good.

As for things to check. I would say that while you have the tranny out too, do a fluid change on that. Along the same lines, this would also be a good time to do a fluid change out on the transfer case. While not impossible to do with it installed in the car, as I am sure you have read, swapping out the fluid in the transfer case requires a little bit of work.

Beyond that, probably a good time to also swap out the IMT o-rings and do a good visual of the vacuum lines. For what they cost, probably best to simply replace all the soft rubber lines that you can to ensure less problems in the future.

 

Thermo,

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

Dave

 

why not upgrade your project and put in a 3.0? I did this, at first i just ran it off the 2.5 ecu, ran fine just down on the 3.0's performance, then i got a 3.0 ecu plugged it in and it ran at full engine power output. I didnt need to re program the new ecu to the key it was just plug n play in my case although i cant be sure worked fine on the uk cars may be different for u.s

 

jagryan85, i did think of going with 3.0 but I want decent MPG more than performance. How much more horsepower and how much lower MPG can you expect with the 3.0? If all I have to do is change the ECU, I might consider it if I don't have to worry about the key. But I also like having spare parts from the old engine - any idea what parts on different on the 3.0 vs. the 2.5, such as injectors, sensors, MAF, etc?

Dave
Current fleet: '03 Jaguar 2.5 5sp project, '05 Honda Odyssey EXL, '09 VW Jetta 2.5 5sp, '03 VW Jetta 1.8T 5sp, '99 Infiniti G20, '98 BMW 323is, '02 Jeep Wrangler X 5sp, '85 Corvette 4+3

 

wal74 The mpg on the 3.0 is almost the same as a 2.5 cruising around. The only difference is when you drive with your foot down! I was gettin around 26mpg on the 2.5 and the 3.0 is almost the same

Performance wise out the factory the 2.5 has 194 bhp and the 3.0 231 bhp. These figures are at 95 octane, i believe the u.s uses lower rating, so it could be different depending on the fuel you use. The main factor is on the way in which these engines are mounted - the exhaust manifolds are smaller than on the s type, thus why s types 2.5 and 3.0 have more power over the x types, although all the engines are identical. Parts wise both the 2.5 and the 3.0 share identical sensors, running gear, ancillaries - the only difference is the bore, and compression ratio's along with slightly bigger cams aswell as the ecu to go with it.

My ecu was plug and play, i didnt need to re program the key for the immobiliser, it just worked! But dont hold me to that as i'm not sure. Cant see it being that expensive so somebody to program the key for you.

In my eyes upgrading to the 3.0 is worth while for the extra 35 odd horses, you definately feel it at the top end which is where it makes all the difference

All the best,
Ryan

 

Good idea on wanting a low mileage engine, but don't trust auto wreckers, you will want to ask them for the vin for the car it came out of so you can run a auto check or car fax so you can make sure they are not tricking you on the mileage and year. If they don't give you a vin thats your clue to find a different company to buy from.

 

Oh and a good junk yard will have compression test #'s before you buy, if not ask them to compression test it.

 

Thanks for all the info. I took off the intake manifold today and now wonder if I really need a new engine. Look like there is a blown head gasket on the rear head middle cylinder. Can the head be removed without lowering the engine/transaxle/subframe in order to get the exhaust manifold off?

Dave

 

it can be done, just be patient

 

Time and patience I have plenty of! I do have a 4-post lift that would make dropping the subframe assembly just a litter easier, but I would rather not mess with dropping everything out the bottom unless it is ultimately the better way to go.