anyone know where the sound system in xtype prem sound get it power to operate the bass. is it from the radio unit itself or is their another hidden amp somewhere besides the subwoffer amp?

 

there is an amp inside the plastic sub enclosure.
It is marginal at best....

If you dig into it and find a way to make that thing sound better keep us posted.
I would like to put a better amp in the sub box, One of these days I will get around to it.

 

thanks for the response but have allready replaced that one, thinking maybe the radio unit is bad, but i heard that their is another amp in the passanger door but i need to know for sure that door skin is a bitch to take off. all the wiring diag. i have seen indecates no other amp but the sub amp.

i think im left with bringing it to the dealer or replacing it with a after maket on. but the face cover is hard to match like to keep it stock if i can. **** this sucks. hate to be stumped so fken hard to work on and troubleshoot.

ron

 

The amp is in the enclosure for the sub.. the sub is attached under the rear deck in the trunk. not too big a deal to drop down and take apart.. just a lot of screws.

the sub has a woofer and a passive radiator. but is does not seem to produce much bass. My car is an 02 - I think later cars have a further upgraded system...

what is your car's problems? what year and options do you have?

 

damn yours subs look nice and i bet it sounds great, where did u get it done and did u replace the stock head unit, and how much?

 

this thread inspired me to do something about my sound.. I removed the "premium" sub system and by passed the factory amp with an old one that that I had kicking around. A bit of wiring and trouble shooting (still kinda not right... ) and the sound is amazingly better... that premium sub amp is totally KA KA....

 

here is the scoop:
I used the stock sub enclosure and speaker. and I screwed a 200 watt amp to the bottom of it. so there is minimal impact on the space.
The amp inside the sub enclosure is a joke.. and the wiring to is is teeny too.
There is a plug near the LR tailight that is for Accessory wiring. It has a 30 amp battery wire, a ground and a 20 amp accessory wire. The same plug is also behind the glove box with the same feeds. The only trick is that the acc wire is not live until you add relay #4 to your fuse box under the hood. I unplugged and swapped the AC clutch relay to test everything.. But if you can believe it that throws a check engine light.. (finally got tired of driving across town for a reset, and bought an OBDII tool...) So if you want to use those wires you need a relay. Dealer price is 90 bucks, carquest is 44. I am going to go to the scrapyard and get one from a FORD it is a FORD PART. should bea lot of them in various cars. In the meantime I wired up a normal 5 pin relay with a diode on the coil, and am using that to energise the factory acc wire to the trunk.

Next issue is crossover, and turn on.

The stock amp has input from all 4 channels so that it always plays bass no matter where the fader/balance is. The funny thing is that the stock amp does not have a typical turn on wire (power ant signal) - It seems to have a digital signal to turn it on. This wire does will not turn on a typical amp. I decided to use the accessory wire ( see above ) to turn the amp on.

keep in mind I have the JTIS wiring diagrams with me to figure all this out. I had the sub box in my basement and opened it up to find out what inside.
My amp has high level inputs option (speaker level) so I decided to leave the existing amp working, and cut the wires to the factory woofer. Simple solution really,the stock amp processes the signals from all 4 speakers, then that outputbecome the input to my 200 watt amp. then I just wired the woofer back up to my amp.

The sound is much improved. The box is very tight and could use a little more rumble, but really much better than stock. For the average listener, I totally recommend doing this. Get a mid-quality 150-200 watt amp with booster style (high level, speaker level) inputs. You can wire the whole thing up easily and quicky.

 

the power is part of a 3 pin plug that is clipped to the fender between the taillight and the CD changer/nav system in the left rear trunk. Pull back the trunk liner and you will see it.

Send me an email and I will fwd a copy of the electrical diagram.

F30 in the fuse box under the hood is a 30 amp fuse and the only thing it feeds is this plug and its twin behind the glovebox. It is direct battery power . The brown wire in the trunk plug

F20 feeds a blank relay position (#4) and it is a 20 amp fuse. once you plug in the relay that 20 amp power is switched on by key position I and II. this is the brown/green stripe wire in the trunk plug.

 

I think the wires are in every car.. nothing to do with the sound system. The connection is shown on the trailer hitch wiring page. but labeled as accessory wiring.

it is quite easy to peek and see the connector. just peek behind your trunk liner. I have looked for the one that is up front, I think if you remove the panel at the rear of the glove box it will be there.

I was looking for some power in the trunk and found all the phone wires.. then noticed the plug with the bigger wires in it. ThenI looked kinda randomly through the wiring diagram until I found the 3 pin plug and the wire colours matched.

sure would be nice to know what a better woofer would do... Im willing to try if you have aline on something.