Hi can anybody help. I drive a 2003 X Type 2.1 V6 and I've just discovered I have no dipped beam. I have side lights high beam driving lights but my headlights are both not working. An issue ive had for a while is when I start the engine with the headlight switch in the off position the headlights came on. By switching to position sidelights and off again they'd turn off. With the switch in the off position and the lights on I could turn them off by rocking the switch left and right without changing its position. Now they wont come on at all am I fare to assume a faulty light switch any advice is appreciated. I see there are a number of posts regarding similar issues and as this is my first post can someone place it in the right area thanks.

 

I should add that I recently had to remove the backup sounder as it had failed the headlights have worked since without issue and I've not yet checked fuse 67

 

DRober0, if you know that you can move the headlight switch and make the dip beams come on and off, then odds are, your headlight switch is toast. The headlight switch really doesn't do much for the dip beams other than ground the control power to activate a relay. So, I would start with replacing the headlight switch and then see what you have at that point.

Now, with this being said, please keep in mind that the X-Type came with 1 of 3 possible headlight switches. Each one does something slightly different. In short, you have the Scandinavian one, the canadian one, and then everyone else. In short, the Scandinavian one turns on the dip beams with the headlight switch in OFF and ON, but will turn them off in the PARK position. The Canadian one, the headlights and side lights are on any time the car is running. The last one, the headlights work like most cars where the dip beams only come on in the ON position. If you have options like automatic headlights, then you are pretty much stuck with getting the "everyone" switch as your autolamp feature will not work any more as the other 2 switches would completely bypass that function. If you are unsure which headlight switch to get, pull out the headlight switch and somewhere on the switch, you should see a series of numbers starting with "1X43". That will be the part number for your headlight switch. match the numbers and you are golden.

 

There's also a fourth. One that has 3 different "settings" for leveling the headlights.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...switch-224738/

Note the different part numbers, one for auto leveling, one for "manual" leveling.

 

Thank you for your replies. A strange thing happened yesterday. I had to change a rear caliper as my jag was suffering with a seized handbrake. Now a couple of weeks ago one morning for no reason I found the lights on high beam and unable to turn off via the switch. I rectified this with a battery disconnect. Last week the key fob stopped responding and again I remedied this with a battery reset. Yesterday in preparation for doing some fault finding on the headlight wiring I disconnected the battery and stripped the rear hub down in anticipation of the caliper arriving. The battery was off the car for a couple of hours and on reconnecting the headlights operated as normal albeit I do need to change the switch as diagnosed by Thermo. Is it possible that somehow these faults have been caused by a scrambled ECU and disconnecting the battery has cleared the issue. Any help appreciated

 

Have you checked the fuse and relay? Might be a weak/intermittent connection. Also check and clean the grounding points and the battery terminals.

 

DRober0, a weak battery and/or battery cables going bad can cause all sorts of random issues. granted, most of the problems were with random engine codes popping up. BUt, there are always firsts and every car has its quirks. If you are thinking a bad battery, your local auto parts store should be able to do a load test on the battery for free and if you get less than 75% capacity, then it is time for a battery (even if the car starts just fine, this only means you have some time before it completely dies). The second test that I would tell you to try is to park the car over night (or alteast for say 4-5 hours, enough time to get everything at ambient temps). Now, start the car and take it for a drive. During the drive, turn on everything electrical you can (headlights, dash blower on high, heated seats, rear defroster, etc). Drive the car for about 5-10 minutes. As you are bringing the car to a stop after this run, turn off everything electrical. Get the car stopped and then open the hood/bonnet and cup your hand OVER!!!!!! the battery terminals. if you can leave you hand there for say 5 seconds, then odds are that terminal is ok. If you feel like you could fry an egg on the terminal, then that battery cable is bad. Replace and see what you have then.

In short, the battery cables on this car tend to fail from the inside out. So, the cable may look good, but it is just not failed enough for you to notice. Lots of people that have replaced their battery cables for problems like yours. Lots of posts of how to get battery cables without having to go to the dealership to get them too.