I just bought a Nice running 2004 X Type with a few issues and hope someone can point me in the correct direction.

1. It will only start in Neutral at times but will start in Park at other times.

2. There is no Blower motor on the Heat/AC ( The main unit does show appear to be working)

3. The dome lights are not working

The previous owner (SAYS) the Blower was working and just stopped 2 weeks ago.

I read that a blown fuse could be the issue so I checked and the fuse was indeed blown.

I only has a 30 amp fuse but the one I removed was a 10 amp but I tried it anyway

When I inserted the fuse with the door open and engine off the dome light came on but was very dim and the fuse blew right away.

HOWEVER and this could be bad. I smelled something and noticed a bit of smoke coming from the panel below the fuse box. Not from above the fuse box but the panel on the left hand side.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone could possibly provide.

 

I forgot to mention the Yellow ABS light is on as red Brake light but it seems to stop fine.

 

Jeff, please look in the driver's door jam and tell me the build month/year. There are 2 different wiring harnesses for the 2004 model year cars. Once I get the build month, I can then look at the correct wiring harness and give you a detailed explanation of what is going on.

With the car not starting, I want you to try something. When the car will not start, hold the key in the start position and with your free hand, move the shift lever back and forth in the slot. If the car starts then, you may simply need to adjust the shifter cable. Granted, may also be a bad J-gate assembly.

As for the fuse that blew, if it took out a 30 amp fuse and it should only have a 10 amp one, then you have a definite hard fault. This is good, this is bad. Tell me the number of the fuse that you replaced and I will give you a step by step on what to disconnect. Granted, from the sounds of things, you have a bad sun visor (most likely the driver's side one). If the wire gets rubbed and makes metal to metal contact, it will cause the dome lighting to act goofey like you are seeing.

 

She was manufactured in February of 2004, is that good or bad?

The fuse that kept popping was #49 in the inside fuse box.

Thanks to your tip about the sun-visor it is no longer popping.
I pulled the driver side 1st and it was looked fine so I pulled the passenger and it was burnt in several places. From looking at it I am surprised it did not do some heat damage to the headliner.
I lucked out and dropped a screw in the floorboard and when I looked for it I saw electrical tape hanging down. I investigated and found that someone had cut the orange wire going to the heater and attached a 5 feet length of wire to the end going into the motor and capped off the end going to the harness. I reconnected the wire and and put heat shrink on it and put it back where in place.
I replaced the fuse (#49) and the interior lights came on bright and the fuse did not blow. I fired the engine up and the blower worked fine.
The heater works fine but the AC does mot work. I can not hear the compressor kicking on.


I am now thinking that the prior owner got rid of it because of the heater issue.
I may have gotten a great car very cheap. I have $1200 invested in it at the moment.
I still need a few things like a glove box latch and a few other minor things but I am not complaining.

 

Jeff, you actually have an 03 X-Type if you want to think of it that way. You have all the "old" parts that were used in 2003. The 2004's didn't get the updated parts until April 2004. So, you have the transfer case that is more desirable (viscous coupled) which will allow a front and rear wheel to have power at all times. But, you don't have the electrical upgrades to fix some of the gremlins.

Let me look at the diagrams and see what I can figure out. But, from the sounds of things, the problem was the loose tape was allowing the blower motor wiring to come in contact with something metal and it was blowing the fuse.

 

Jeff, well, your car has proven me wrong. Looking, you have the 2004.25 wiring harness. So, it would appear that your car was built with the new, upgraded pieces. So, hopefully you have the DSC button on the center console as your transfer case is an open differential design. So, if you get snow/ice, if a wheel looses control, it will take all the power unless the DSC steps in.

Now, with that being said, to get the blower motor working again, lets try a few things first. The first thing is to simply try checking fuse F37 (30A fuse). This fuse powers the blower motor via the orange wire (if you look closely, the wire is orange with a yellow stripe). It is possible that fuse is blown too. If the fuse blows again, then we know you still have a problem. This is where you will need to pull out a multimeter. If you measure for resistance (20K or greater scale), put the black lead against any metal part of the body and with the red lead, probe the silver tabs on the top of fuse F37 one at a time. Ideally both leads should read "OL" (ie, maximum resistance). I think you will find that one one side you will have OL, the other side is going to read essentially 0 ohms. This will confirm you have a bad wire that is shorted to ground.

If you have a shorted to ground wire, I would next disconnect the plug off the top of the blower motor and then check to see if the wiring is still reading 0 ohms. If no, then you know your blower motor is shot and you will need a new one. If it is reading 0 ohms, then you have a short in the wiring. I would try cutting the wiring at where the previous owner spliced the wiring together. You can then probe both ends of the newly cut wire. If you have 0 ohms on the orange/yellow wire, then your problem is between the splice the previous owner made and the fuse box. If the problem is on the other wire, I would say to pull that wire and run a new one, making sure to tape/zip tie the wire to other wiring to prevent it from getting damaged again. Odds are, the previous owner skimped on tieing the wiring out of the way and it rubbed up against a sharp edge and it shorted to the body of the car inside the dash.

 

Thanks again.
I do not think I have the DSC button.
I actually got the blower working fine now. I just soldered the cut wire back together.
After finding the shorted out and burned wire on the passenger sun visor and repaired it everything now works except the AC does not blow cold.

I can not believe that Jaguar would design something that would take out the blower fan and interior lights because of a bad wiring location.

I worked at a place that made pistons for some of thhe Jaguar engines (Mahle) Jaguar had the tightest tolerance of all the manufactures we made parts for.

Now I have a stupid question, When I got it the leaping cat that goes on the hood was in the dash. It has a metal loop of wire attached to it and the under-hood mount is held in place by a plastic nut. I think something is missing because I can not figure out hot to reattach it.

 

Jeff, there is also a spring that goes in there. So, you would put the cat through the hood, then you will loop some of the crimping cable through the hole in the bottom of the cat. From there, you will slide the crimping cable through the center of the spring and then put the plastic cap on the end of the spring (making sure to feed the cables through the openings. Then you can put on the crimp bead and slide it up until you start to slightly compress the spring (tight enough that the kitty will not move). Crimp it down and you are done. It will take a little bit of work to push up on the crimp bead as you are also pulling down on the cable as you also have to crimp the bead.