Have spent hours and hours reading everything available on "monitor not ready" situation and cannot get it to clear. Battery was disconnected months and months ago. Went in for smog test and everything passed except it failed due to ONE obdII monitor "O2 sensor not ready,". This is apparently common after battery change or disconnection. I have No check engine light or codes except P1000 which is the code for "monitor not ready". California BAR smog regulations on 2007 gas engines only allows "Evaporative System" monitor to be not ready, but mine is ready. Bought a diagnostic tool to read live values of both upstream and downstream O2 sensors and they both sets read about the same as the corresponding sensor on each bank in all conditions and track each other normally. Independent shops AND dealership have told me that the only way to reset it is to drive it more. I have put over 1,600 miles on it and run every published "drive cycle" and those drive cycles recommended by the shops multiple times but the O2 monitor will not get "ready". Based on others reported successes I have tried a new fuel pump driver module, Mass flow sensor, throttle body cleaning etc. with no luck. I have read nothing but thread after thread of people replacing o2 sensors and reflashing computers etc only to have the "monitor not ready" to remain. I Have contacted CA smog referee and was told if I spend $660 on repairs and can't fix it they will exempt it temporarily. There is no amount of money I could spend that would fix it since no parts are bad. I actually want to sell my car but in CA the seller is responsible for making it pass smog. Any suggestions?

 

If only the oxygen sensor heater monitor is not ready, but the oxygen sensor monitor, catalyst monitor, evap monitor, secondary air system (if applicable), and egr system (if applicable) are ready, then, in almost all cases, the heater monitor will eventually set and be "ready." When a heater circuit is getting old, it can be one of the last monitors to pass. but if the oxygen sensor and catalyst monitor are ready, then the heater has to be working or the other two monitors would fail and set codes.

One other post suggests that a weak battery may cause this as well. Saying if your battery is over 4 years old and drive cycles tried multiple times, replace the battery and try again.

 

Nope, The Oxygen sensor heater is Ready. The battery holds voltage over 12.3 volts even when the car is not started for weeks. If it was getting too low to keep the volatile memory up, it wouldn't lose only one parameter and only the same one each time.

 

Then it must be the downstream monitor not setting. Read post #6

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...onitor-253118/

 

I must have run that exact drive cycle about 10 times.

 

Slight quibble, you want the monitor to set (some people say reset but they mean re-set, i.e. set again).

You're doing the right kinds of things - as far as we know.

I say as far as we know because CARB rules may have resulted in Jaguar putting a different "calibration" (software variant) in your car. Maybe. If they have, I've seen no documentation specific to CA.

Jaguar certainly may have changed the software over time, whether due to CA or not, but all we have really is early doc which "escaped" one way or another.

Best I could find is the early stuff and then some later stuff for the V6 engine.

I guess (ugh!) maybe one or more O2s is a bit tired but not bad enough to flag a code, but I'd hate to start changing parts on a guess like that.

 

Thanks for the information. I have run those same drive cycles multiple times as well and the O2 sensor still comes up "not ready". I've even tried disconnecting the battery cables and shorting them together to start the OBDII ready cycle again and all the monitors get ready after a few drive cycles and about 30 miles of driving but O2 sensor always remains not ready. It's ridiculous to think the software identifies "Pending codes" or something that "might fail" or is "about to fail" or "someday might fail" but people call the P1000 code "pending" for some reason. The definition of "P" in front of an OBDII code is for "Powertrain" so this idea of Pending is odd. If you can drive 1,600 miles with a "pending code" the part that is "pending" failure should have actually failed by then right? Today I found this scary paragraph online ." These codes are referred to as pending or maturing codes. Pending codes are caused by intermittent faults or faults that the PCM needs to see happen in two consecutive warm-up cycles to set the code. If the fault does not reappear within 40 warm-up cycles, the code will be cleared from memory." I don't drive the car daily any longer since I'm retired and I am ready to sell it so driving it daily for no other reason and buying gas to do it is really making this a lot of effort and cost for a car with absolutely nothing wrong with it.

 

By law (USA, EU, UK, etc) OBD II has both codes & pending codes.

Generally, a pending code will not interfere with such as "smog" tests (we have something else as do other jurisdictions).

P1 codes are non-generic aka make-specific (that's a rough approximation, they can even be specific to the individual car but hey).

Codes don't have to be two-trip but many are, yes.

Yes P = powertrain. I've not seen many saying pending (which it isn't short for).

AFAIK CARB made an utter mess of some aspects of this not least by being overly stupid about which monitors are allowed to be unset for which years. Maybe move states???

For CA to rely on monitors being set yet not mandate manufacturers release the details of the things those monitors rely on is daft.

Your car probably has one or more parts slightly out of spec. You _might_ guess or figure out the part(s) by hunting through OBD readings or using a DVOM or 'scope, but CARB sure aren't your friend.

 

Update, Broke down and replaced all four O2 sensors with brand new Denso parts. Drove all the drive cycles. Same result. ONLY O2 sensors "not ready". Took the car to an independent shop. Found NOTHING wrong with the car. Recommended flashing the PCM but their equipment was unable to perform a re-flash. They recommended me to the only Jaguar dealership in So. Cal that would still work on anything older than a 2010. They hooked it up, scanned it and found no errors and no update available and could not flash it either. I have a car that has no failed parts that won't pass smog and the manufacturer has no solution.
Anyone out of CA want to buy a nice X-Type for cheap?

 

I am experiencing the same problem with my 2006 XJ8, not being able to pass CA smog because of the oxygen sensors not registering. I've been to 2 Jag shops, driven 1500 miles or more and have been dealing with this since March. I sent in and paid my registration and expect that one of these days the DMV will come after me for proof that it passed the smog test. I may just have to drive this car to Minnesota, where they don't require smog tests. and give it to my brother!

 

Hi MarinMan1. Can you PM me? Maybe if we approach the CARB referee together we can convince him there is nothing wrong with our cars and get an exemption. What are we supposed to do when the dealership can't fix our cars.

 

Marinman1 And gadzooks i will too help with that convincing as mine too is saying no codes and no problems from mechanics. I bought mine without getting smogged from who i bought it from because i just moved here and wasnt fully aware of the smogging requirement from seller. I believe he released mine as parts to avoid issues on his end but either way i put myself in a bad spot. Would be glad to help if i can with getting exemption. Thanks

 

I would PM you if I could figure out how. There is no Email icon on your posts. Maybe you can PM me and we can connect that way.

 

Welcome to the forums MarinMan1,

Your post was automatically locked for moderation. We're a vehicle forum not a dating site so we take our members privacy seriously. You won't find eMail addresses in posts nor can you use PM with a first post.

Please read the guidance for new members ( https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...ned-up-241802/ ) which answers many of the most frequent questions about getting started.

Graham

 

How long is the ‘Forum Qualifying Period’? MaringMan1 has a legitimate Jaguar related issue that may be helped with the ability to contact other members and may also be able to help us as well offline. Does he have to wait for a time period or does he have to post more posts? What is the criteria?

 

Well @Gadzooks2 if you read the link the Mod posted you'd have your answer =

The qualifying period is a spam-reducing tactic that has proved extremely successful. This 'period' includes a preset number of days (3) that you must be active, and a minimum post count (10). Once these are reached, you will automatically have full forum access. The time and post count requirements are trivial to a genuine new member but a serious deterrent to spammers

 

OK, Missed that part. The snarkiness is noted however. He'll just have to make a few random posts before he can get or provide help for his X type related issue.

 

O2 sensor ONLY monitor not ready issue status update:
I have been in contact with the California ARB a few more times. After a few back and forths they reached out to Jaguar and was given a slightly different drive cycle than any other cycles I have seen. It goes like this and I will start running it tomorrow with fingers crosse that it may help. It was also suggested that my intermittent failing speedometer may have an affect on the OBDII monitor ready cycles since the computer is looking for certain MPH for specific time periods. I would be shocked if the computer was looking for feedback from an instrument rather than using the VSS and ABS sensors to determine actual MPH but just in case I had the speedometer repaired and will see if the monitor gets ready now.

Carry out a road test and perform the following operations.
1. Accelerate to 55 mph (88 km/h) in 5th gear and cruise for 2 minutes with the engine speed at or above 1800rpm.
2. Lift off the throttle and allow the vehicle to decelerate until the engine speed is less than 1000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle.
4. Release brake, allow the vehicle to move with no throttle for 1 minute.
5. Road test is now complete.

 

I realized that the enforcement mechanism for not having a positive smog test is that you don't get the renewal sticker, so I'm driving around with an expired plate and hope I don't get pulled over for it.
It was suggested to me by the Smog station that originally tested my car that I should take it to a 'Test and Repair" shop, which I did. They seemed very knowledgeable and put the car through 2 drive cycles in addition to checking everything they could related to the monitor and the oxygen sensor, but couldn't get it to trigger. They very kindly only charged me for $30 worth of gas and waived their usual $125 base fee. They suggested that perhaps the system needed to be "flashed" which I guess is like updating the software, but they said they didn't have that ability and I would have to take it to the dealer. So I dropped it off there and signed for a 1 hour diagnosis for $285 -- can you believe that price? I'll log on and report on what comes of that.

 

That is similar to what I went through. The only dealership in Southern CA that would look at anything older than 2010 attempted to reflash my PCM but couldn't because there is no "update for the variant" that is in the computer already. Fortunately they didn't charge me but if it works out for you PLEASE let us know!