Okay thank you thermo! And all others who have helped with my threads!


I'll be back around the 30th.. with more info on status of car. Going out of town for brother In laws basic training grad.

 

Okay I have temp fixed vacum line to fuel regulator.. ordering new hose from jaguar today along with brake booster check valve. I also ran car more than 6 times and no status change so I went in and pulled the intake manifold off I noticed the three cylinders closest to the headlights were gunked up significantly more than the back three cylinders. I also went down to the lower seals and cleaned and replaced those as well as the upper seals.. I will buy a fuel pressure testing kit from advanced next Friday. But as far as now the car still has no acceleration and studders and jerks as if it was misfireing... impossible to get into fifth gear without losing speed or even 4th gear getting over 45mph.. ):

 

Unseen, get the motor back together, disconnect the battery to clear the codes and lets see what we have then. You have done some work and lets see what we have at this point.

 

How long does it need to be disconnected?? Both poz and neg terminals? Or jus neg?

 

Unseen,

You should just need to disconnect one of the terminals as this breaks the electrical circuit.

I would not think you need to disconnect it for more than a few minutes.

On the point of measuring pressures you could try an ODB II device (BLuetooth elm 327) which talks to a smart phone app (I use TORQUE), this will let you know what the ECU thinks the pressure is as well as reading the actual from a test gauge.

Cheers
Caggers.

 

Unseen, I would recommend disconnecting the negative post (that way, if you accidentally touch the motor or body of the car, you will not draw any electrical sparks) and then leave it disconnected for about 30 seconds. By then, any residual charges inside anything will have worn off and all memory will have been erased.

 

Okay last night disconnected and left unplugged all night. I have drove onle about 2mi and again at first car runs okay until it begins to warm up it studders and begins to pull back acceleration. I will drive it to let ecm cycle I have seen posts were it takes 60mi to do so.
It will allow time for pieces to come in I also order an obd2 elm 327 Bluetooth so I can read my codes and check fuel pressure. I will update asap with more info. I appreciate all who have responded on this thread ESPECIALLY you Chris "Thermo"! (:
If it wasnt for all of you my wife would make me get rid of this trouble some car. but a long the way I have learned tremendously from it!

 

Okay thermo I have drove bout 20 mi so far and codes p0171 and p0175 are still showing the car is slowly running worse now there is no acceleration in 4th gear and can only maintain 40mph or lower. Idle rpms sit at 600 to 750 and bounces back and fourth between those numbers.. side note i have replaced upstream o2 sensor bank 1 should I swap with bank 2 and see if bank 2 needed replacing as well??

 

Unseen, if the idle is bouncing back and forth, then that is sounding like either a sticking throttlebody (ie, have a problem with the throttlebody) or you IAC valve is sticking. At this point, probably best to see what a professional shop says and go from there. I hate to say that, but we are venturing into territory that something with a lot of diagnostics is going to be needed before you just start replacing expensive parts just because.

 

Hey, wanted to pick your brain a lil more vefore take it to the shop... i noticed while car is on kpa sits at 380+ and higher when accelerating. What would cause high fuel pressure?

 

Unseen, if your fuel pressure is really high, then that is almost confirming a bad fuel pressure regulator. This is only more true if you rev the car and the fuel pressure goes up from there. That should explain a lot of what is going on.

 

Any suggestions on where to find this piece??

 

And it does increase with more pressure on the throttle

 

Hey unseen.
I have a used one with only 80 k on the clock I would be happy to sell you. Pm me and we can work out the details. My parts are guaranteed.

Good luck,
The Dr

 

Unseen, I would go with what DR has or you may be able to talk with the vendors on e-bay that are parting out X-Types and see what they will want for the piece you need. Otherwise, you are looking at going to a dealership to get the part.

 

OK. Question thermo or thread viewers. I have an OBDII reader and reset codes to monitor status of what would populate first. I get the P0175 probly 1-5mi before the P0171 code populates. Does thee help determine what is going on with my car? Do you any suggestions?

 

P0175-> Left-hand bank combustion too rich.
-Restricted air filter
-Leaking fuel injector(s)
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (high fuel pressure)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor,
-EFT sensor, TP sensor

P0171→ Right-hand bank combustion too lean
-Engine misfire
-Air intake leak between MAF sensor and throttle
-Fuel injector restriction
-Fuel filter/system restriction
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (low fuel pressure)
-Low fuel pump output
-HO2S (1/1; 1/2) harness wiring condition fault
-Exhaust leak (before catalyst)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor, EFT sensor, TP sensor

My money is on a leak somewhere in the system. You can try to find the leak my getting a cigar, lighting it, and blowing smoke into your vacuum system; where the smoke comes out, bamo that’s where your leak is. I’ve found lots of leaks using this method for different clients.

Here’s a youtube.com video from my man Scotty Kilmer, check it out.

 

OK. I have checked for vaccum leaks and have sealed anything necessary. Have to still purchase a vaccum line.

I did notice that my fuel pressure drops when I cut off the car.

When the car is on it idles between 365kpa to 390kpa
But
When car is off it drops to 300kpa.

 

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