I second that motion...

Keep stock headunit, and just add a sub??

 

the best (and easiest) solution is as follows:

note - anywhere i use the term amp/sub i am referring to either the powered sub or amp if you go without a powered sub. also, in the normal setup of seperate amp and sub, the sub is called a passive sub because it is not powered on it's own - just a tidbit of info.

get a low-line converter (this taps into a speaker wire but changes the signal to a line-input, also known as rca or red and white connectors). if you have speakers in the rear shelf, you have the highest system jaguar offers and this will make tapping into the speaker lines much easier. if you only have the 4 or 6 speaker system, you will have to tap into the speakers in the rear doors.

you still have to run power lines to the trunk to the sub. it doesn't matter if the sub is self-powered or you are running seperate sub and amp. you actually need 2 power lines, one being a constant (runs directly to the battery with an inline fuse no more than 12" from the battery) and one being what is called a remote line. a remote line is a power line that is only on while the car itself is on. in most aftermarket applications, they connect this line to the power antennae line in the back of the radio. since we do not have that system, the next best thing is to have a professional install the remote line to some fuse relay that is only on when the car is on. the direct power line to the battery is to actually power the amp/sub. the remote line is there to complete the circuit in the amp/sub and make it draw power (or amplify), but when the car is turned off the amp is no longer drawing power. this stops your battery from being drained.

then you have to ground the amp/sub. this is pretty easy as you can find any bolt in the trunk area that is bolted to a metal surface and use that as the ground.

if you were to go to a professional shop, amplifier installation is usually $75-150 depending on what parts are needed. since we need the low-line converter (if staying with a stock radio) you have to pay for the converters as well. unless you have some knowledge of car audio system, i *highly* suggest you take it to a professional to have this work done. and please, don't go to best buy or frye's or some similar mega-store chain. go to a real professional. remember, this isn't a dodge neon, it's a jag (not to be mean but prove a point :P), and it is much better to have it done the right way first and never worry about it again.

and lastly, i would suggest you look into JL Audio subwoofers. you can get a 10" woofer (part number 10w0 or 10w1 or 10w3) for about $100. one of these subs would be more than you would ever need, and they are rated at 100watts RMS to power them to the limit. the sound that they put out is just plain amazing. that also leads me to one more thought - when researching subs and amps, always see what power they can put out (amp) and take (sub) and look for the RMS rating. RMS is the true power that is happening, not the MAX power like most companies talk about. on average, if an amp is a 200watt max power, it is around 100watt RMS. it it very important to make sure that your speakers and amps are on the same page so to speak regarding power. you can usually get a box for the sub from the intallers for around $50-75. if you go this route, you will have to purchase a seperate amp, so check the ratings on it. any reputable shop will be more than happy to discuss all this with you before you purchase. once you have made a decision, after the installation is complete, be sure to sit in the car and play with the radio a bit before you leave. turn it up slowly to see how it sounds, see if there is any distortion or the bass is too much (trust me with these subs if you give them a full 100watts RMS it will be too much for your system). like any other item you would buy, play with it at the store before you accept it as a completed job.

 

Best bet is to get the self powered sub. The one I got is an Infinity 10 inch with dual speakers. Max output 400watts. (not that i use it all)
My new radio has the sub wire and i ran it to the sub. But, that amp and most others have the ability to run it off the speaker wire from the doors.

The only problem with the stock head unit and running it to a self powered amp is that you will not be able to get the correct sound.....since the stock radio has no Bass out put controller....your door speakers will take the blow and eventually blow up....whereas a "better" head unit has the ability to control the output just to the sub.....know what i mean??

Installation is easy and straight forward no matter which way you go. ( you just might be dissapointed)

Let me know which radio you have, primimium or standard, and i'll let you know which wires you need to splice into....(the truck already has the power wire and auto on for a good sub)


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Pre-paid legal services forum

 

Ok well you have it made then......get a good powered sub, tap into one of the rear speaker wires for the bass, and you should have an amp back there for those speakers as well...find the hot wire and that should be the self power or auto on for the amp....

I'll have to get my color chart out if you need more info. Get the amp and let me know......i can fax over the chart to you if you need it....


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Motorcycle tires

 

i'd like to know which wire is the remote off of the head unit. i have premium, but not top of the line. i was just going to run off a fuse but would rather have it tied to the hu. thanx.

 

K, i'll dig up my notes and get you the info soon

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Dc Medical Marijuana