Hey fellas, was just wondering about tackling the transfer case fluid change. Im at 113,000 and no sign of being changed before. Was wondering if if the same old school rules applied like with the transmission. As long as it isnt slipping or anything its a good idea? I dont think my transfer case is bad so changing the fluid would presumably be ok.
THERMO just had me a little worried after a few post ive read about the transfer case being weak. lol. Id like to keep my Jag as long as possible.


Thanks guys,

Dave

 

I've never been one to subscribe to the let it go at this point philosophy on anything and really don't believe there is much merit to that train of thought. Read up on how to change it and what to use, build yourself a kit and pump or buy one from the likes of wildbill or someone else, change it once, then change it again a couple 100 miles later.

So many here have changed it only to find they didn't have any in there.

 

BENEBOB....good point. Guess it would just be a ease of mind to know its good and fresh also. Who knows what i may find. I know it seems like a easy question as ive been around cars quite awhile but just had it at a shop to do a flex plate and asked about changing trans fluid and the guy says its a lifetime sealed trans. Suppose they built it so it doesnt need to be changed. Im not a believer on that either. Just figured id ask.
Thanks buddy,

Dave

 

Remember sealed for life should get you out of warranty and likely increases new car sales as it is just what Americans want... maint. free.

 

I, I didn't mean to scare you, but it is a characteristic of our cars. Every vehicle has its weak link. The difference is now you know what the weak link is vice finding out the hard way. You can also now respond to it and not suffer from any bad consequences.

As for doing the fluid change, if you can get a valve in the drain hole for the transfer case, you will find that changing the fluid is a really easy thing to do. The first time will likely take you 45-60 minutes to do. But, after that, 30 minutes, maybe.

Like Bob mentioned, some of us have found our transfer cases dry (I was one of them). Atleast now I know there is fluid in the case which will only help ensure its long life.

If you need any help, just hollar. It sounds more difficult than what it really is. I used a radiator drain valve and an adapter to go from the 1/2" NPT threads of the transfer case to the 1/4" NPT threads of the drain valve. The adapter and valve were a total of like $6. The only thing to keep in mind is that you will need to modify the adapter a little bit (removing the hex top) since the clearances near the drain hole are pretty tight.

 

Thermo, well it's been a couple of years now. How is your radiator drain valve setup holding up? Any signs of leaking, loosening, galvanic corrosion or any other damage? I wan to change my transfer case fluid in the next few months, and like the solution you came up with. I just wanted to get confirmation of how the valve will hold up over time.

Thanks!

 

Matt, no leaks, the brass has tarnished a little bit, but, all is good. No signs of any corrosion either. I keep an eye on things just to make sure that I am not going to have any issues.

 

Great to hear, Thermo. Thanks! I appreciate all of the details and pics you posted on how to do this - I'm going to try your approach and hope the plug hasn't changed for the worse (location, clearance, threads) on the 2005 models.

While I'm thinking of it, did you get rid of the magnet on the factory plug when you retrofitted your drain valve? It's not a huge deal in the greater scheme of things, but I wonder if there's any way to reuse it?

 

Matt, I didn't install a magnet on the valve. The amount of stuff I found there was insignificant. So, I didn't worry about it. Besides, if I am getting metal shavings there, odds are the transfer case is long gone, so, not much use for it.