2002 X-Type
Purchased used (I don't know when this problem began).

3 Door locks work fine manually & automatically.

But the rear passenger lock works manually only, not automatically.

When I cycle the automatic locks, there is no clicking sound inside the rear passenger door, so I suspect either an electrical problem, e.g., a disconnected wire inside the door, or a stuck or bad actuator (solenoid or servo motor?).

FYI, I disconnected the battery 5-10 minutes, then reconnected, but no luck.

Any suggestions to diagnose the problem?

How do I remove the rear door panel? Do I start at the bottom of the door panel and carefully pry nylon fasteners out of the sheet metal (I've seen this on American cars)?

If I need a new actuator, what's the part number?

Thanks.

dwclapp

 

First lube the crap out of it with a quality spray lube, NOT WD40, something like Triflow or Valvoline spray lube with teflon will work good. Do not skimp on the lube, spray until lube is dripping out the bottom of the door. Work latch manually, both the lock tab and the handle many times(like 30) spray again until lube comes out bottom of door and work manually again many times. Try to lock car with fob or key in door. Did the suspect latch lock? If yes, job well done, now lube the rest of your latches to avoid this problem in the future. If no, there are many possible causes for this problem. If you want to guess and remove the door panel to look at a latch mechanism that has a switch sealed within its inner workings you may do so. Otherwise take to dealer for proper diagnosis. I just hate to see people waste time and money guessing at a fault that can usually be easily diagnosed with a little experience and the proper tools, ie the IDS/SDD which can test the switch inputs and outputs without taking anything apart. I realize everyone wants to save a dollar but some faults are just difficult and time consuming and potentially dangerous. Any time you are messing with the door latch wiring on a Jaguar you have the potential of causing either a global open or global close event which I have personally seen cause a technician to need 38 stitches when his hand was caught in the window mechanism and he could not get it out until another technician disconnected the battery and ruined the window mechanism to free his hand. Not really worth the savings if you ask me.

 

Sorry to unearth an old thread, but I wanted to try the lube on my door lock before taking it to the dealer. Just to clarify though, are you spraying lube on the actuator? Thanks

 

disguay, you can do an electrical check of the solenoid by using a multimeter across the yellow/black and the white/black wires. When the locks are actuated, you should see 12 VDC on those wires for a second or two. If you see the multimeter jump up to 12 VDC, then your problem is in the solenoid. Granted, you may want to use some lube on the cable running between the lock button and the actuator itself. These cables are known for getting dry and getting a lot more resistance. This will cause the actuator to not be able to rotate the lock mechanism.

 

Thanks thermo. It happened to be that the actuator was getting power to lock and unlock and I lubed everything and still no cigar. I did find a new actuator for $40 so I think I'll go that route. For right now I am driving without a door panel and I must say, I have the same feeling as when I first bought the car while driving around without a door panel. I don't know how, but I think I will have to remove my door panels more often