Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
#1
Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
Is it true? Does no one manufacture or sell replacement bushings for my X-Type rear? My wheels wobble (but they don't fall down).
I will make the repair, but I don't know where to get parts - or a JTIS that I can download.
Anyone know about these concerns???
Speak to me experienced guru of the Jag community...I know you are out there...
Thanks,
Chud
I will make the repair, but I don't know where to get parts - or a JTIS that I can download.
Anyone know about these concerns???
Speak to me experienced guru of the Jag community...I know you are out there...
Thanks,
Chud
#2
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
well, which bushings do you need? It's very likely you're talking about the front / lower control arm bushing. (yes, that is on the rear of the car)
If what you're experiencing is a clunk / wobble on the road, and when lifted, you have movement of the wheel top to bottom (pivoting on the axis of the wheel center) then this is your culprit.
Unfortunately, this is not available as bushing only, as the bushing is integral to the control arm. I'm fairly certain it was designed by a plumber. [:@]
The control arms are $105-ish, both sides are the same part number, and available only from the dealer.
The good news is: at least it's not as easy to replace as it looks! [:@]
Yes, its true. They should be a simple bolt-out, bolt-in procedure..... but no. It seems that as the bushing is wearing out, the inner aluminum race of the busing is welding itself to the steel bolt (because for some reason the Jag Geeks can't learn from others who have used aluminum against steel) which means that as you back the bolt out of the captive thread, you actually end up forcing apart the two halves of the 'U', and eventually breaking off the captive nut. At this point, you'll get out the cut-off tool and start reallly breaking stuff.
And then you need to go find an appropriate bolt... but you can't 'cuz it's sunday morning, and nobody is open.
So: do yourself a favor and buy the $3 lower bolt along with the bushing.
You'll need it.
No need for me to tell you how I know this.
If what you're experiencing is a clunk / wobble on the road, and when lifted, you have movement of the wheel top to bottom (pivoting on the axis of the wheel center) then this is your culprit.
Unfortunately, this is not available as bushing only, as the bushing is integral to the control arm. I'm fairly certain it was designed by a plumber. [:@]
The control arms are $105-ish, both sides are the same part number, and available only from the dealer.
The good news is: at least it's not as easy to replace as it looks! [:@]
Yes, its true. They should be a simple bolt-out, bolt-in procedure..... but no. It seems that as the bushing is wearing out, the inner aluminum race of the busing is welding itself to the steel bolt (because for some reason the Jag Geeks can't learn from others who have used aluminum against steel) which means that as you back the bolt out of the captive thread, you actually end up forcing apart the two halves of the 'U', and eventually breaking off the captive nut. At this point, you'll get out the cut-off tool and start reallly breaking stuff.
And then you need to go find an appropriate bolt... but you can't 'cuz it's sunday morning, and nobody is open.
So: do yourself a favor and buy the $3 lower bolt along with the bushing.
You'll need it.
No need for me to tell you how I know this.
#3
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
Once again, I am amazed by the specific advice provided by experience. Yes, the wheel does wobble top to bottom on center. I am now tracking down the best price, and hope to have this project started in the next week or two. (and I will get the bolt!)
Say, do you know a good place to get the JTIS? I downloaded it two times online, but the files were no good. I have been going at this blind, and don't like walking around in the dark. It's like driving with a Lucas generator!
Say, do you know a good place to get the JTIS? I downloaded it two times online, but the files were no good. I have been going at this blind, and don't like walking around in the dark. It's like driving with a Lucas generator!
#4
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Posts: n/a
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
chud? where are you? something is getting lost in the "translation"
The rear suspension is a multi link set up with swivel joints, pivot points, some fixed ruber bushing ect.. there are many links that attach the rear suspension to the car. Also from the sounds of your message you could be talking about the wheel bearing.It is not very clear.
when you say the wheels wobble, is this while driving? or are you talking about with the wheel jacked up in the air? If you can actually grab the wheel and wobble it, then you must be able to look behind and see which of the many places it is worn or broken.
All the links etc.. have names, and bushing is sort of becomming and old fashioned word these days.
The rear suspension is a multi link set up with swivel joints, pivot points, some fixed ruber bushing ect.. there are many links that attach the rear suspension to the car. Also from the sounds of your message you could be talking about the wheel bearing.It is not very clear.
when you say the wheels wobble, is this while driving? or are you talking about with the wheel jacked up in the air? If you can actually grab the wheel and wobble it, then you must be able to look behind and see which of the many places it is worn or broken.
All the links etc.. have names, and bushing is sort of becomming and old fashioned word these days.
#5
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
Bo is correct, but I built my assumption based on information you've included in several posts you've made on other threads, not just the one above.
My guess is that I have diagnosed this correctly, but ABSOLUTELY climb under and check it out before you order expensive parts!
The wheel bearings are less suspect in my mind for many reasons.... not the least of which being that they do not fail as commonly on this car as the control arm bushing does.
My guess is that I have diagnosed this correctly, but ABSOLUTELY climb under and check it out before you order expensive parts!
The wheel bearings are less suspect in my mind for many reasons.... not the least of which being that they do not fail as commonly on this car as the control arm bushing does.
#6
#7
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
Hey Guys, Thanks!
I appreciate what you are all telling me. I am putting the car in the air tomorrow morning and removing the wheel again. I am going to inspect everything - I'd hate to fix one thing only to find it was multiple issues. I'll go ahead and check the other side while I'm at it.
I saw that a bushing (in what I believe is the front / lower control arm) failing when I had the car up 2 days ago. I went by my Jag dealer/parts department yesterday. The guy there is very helpful. He printed outa sheet with the various pieces of the unit. That way I can make very specific notes when determining what needs to be corrected. And McJaguar, he has the bolts!
*Note to anyone buying bolts for the suspension: know the last 6 of your vin when you go to the dealer. There are different diameter bolts based on production.
Now for some completelyun-related information: when changing the front brakes / rotors -a coat hanger cut in just the right places makes a great device for suspending calipers from the springs to keep tension off the hoses.
I appreciate what you are all telling me. I am putting the car in the air tomorrow morning and removing the wheel again. I am going to inspect everything - I'd hate to fix one thing only to find it was multiple issues. I'll go ahead and check the other side while I'm at it.
I saw that a bushing (in what I believe is the front / lower control arm) failing when I had the car up 2 days ago. I went by my Jag dealer/parts department yesterday. The guy there is very helpful. He printed outa sheet with the various pieces of the unit. That way I can make very specific notes when determining what needs to be corrected. And McJaguar, he has the bolts!
*Note to anyone buying bolts for the suspension: know the last 6 of your vin when you go to the dealer. There are different diameter bolts based on production.
Now for some completelyun-related information: when changing the front brakes / rotors -a coat hanger cut in just the right places makes a great device for suspending calipers from the springs to keep tension off the hoses.
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#8
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
ORIGINAL: CapsLock911
*Note to anyone buying bolts for the suspension: know the last 6 of your vin when you go to the dealer. There are different diameter bolts based on production.
Now for some completelyun-related information: when changing the front brakes / rotors -a coat hanger cut in just the right places makes a great device for suspending calipers from the springs to keep tension off the hoses.
*Note to anyone buying bolts for the suspension: know the last 6 of your vin when you go to the dealer. There are different diameter bolts based on production.
Now for some completelyun-related information: when changing the front brakes / rotors -a coat hanger cut in just the right places makes a great device for suspending calipers from the springs to keep tension off the hoses.
And for the caliper hanger, I use Zip ties.... but both are a great solution!
#9
RE: Rear Suspension Bushings-NOOOOO
ORIGINAL: McJaguar
Great tip on the bolts... allthough we found out that Jaguar specifies a part # for the latter designation, but NONE for the earlier.... so when we called Jaguar, they told us to use the latter... and it was correct.
And for the caliper hanger, I use Zip ties.... but both are a great solution!
ORIGINAL: CapsLock911
*Note to anyone buying bolts for the suspension: know the last 6 of your vin when you go to the dealer. There are different diameter bolts based on production.
Now for some completelyun-related information: when changing the front brakes / rotors -a coat hanger cut in just the right places makes a great device for suspending calipers from the springs to keep tension off the hoses.
*Note to anyone buying bolts for the suspension: know the last 6 of your vin when you go to the dealer. There are different diameter bolts based on production.
Now for some completelyun-related information: when changing the front brakes / rotors -a coat hanger cut in just the right places makes a great device for suspending calipers from the springs to keep tension off the hoses.
And for the caliper hanger, I use Zip ties.... but both are a great solution!
Be sure to lube your control arm bolt with a good axle/bearing grease prior to replacing. I went through the whole "sheared bolt....on Sunday" syndrome when pulling the leaf springs off my Jeep to add a suspension lift. Grease is your friend.
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Mugatu
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06-23-2020 01:50 PM
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