I am trying to change the rear brake rotors to the drilled and Slotted ones but I ran into this issue
while trying to remove the brake anchor plate one needs to remove the ABS bolt ( so you can get to the lower screw)
now while trying to ABS wheel speed sensor retaining bolt
it became free now I am unable open this bolt and so I am stuck..

any advice how I may proceed ?
and thanks ..

PS I have tried one size bigger but it won't work

 

I replaced the rear pads and disks the other month and I don't remember having to remove the 'ABS bolt'.

Basically you remove the pad retaining bracket which requires the two slide bolts to be removed. The bottom rubber damper has to be removed first to get to the lower bolt.

Once the pads are removed the mounting clamp bolts can be removed and that should be it.

When you say the ABS wheel speed sensor retaining bolt has become 'free' do you mean it is spinning or the head has rounded?

 

I just replaced my rotors and pads to drilled and slotted today. I also did not have to remove the ABS bolt.

The bottom damper rubber might be an issue .

 

I just did it this past weekend so my memory is fairly fresh. i have a 05 with the thru 04 rear brakes so I'm not sure if it will apply entirely to you if you have a newer one but here's the list.

1. remove the handbrake cable from the housing in the rear. Just use a screw driver to pry back the lever and it'll come pretty easy. Just be sure you have a solid surface to pry from.
2. Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on to the bracket. The bottom one has the rubber doughnut on it with a 10mm you need to take off to get to the other bolt. I couldn't slide the caliper out as it was glued to the pads at this point. Had to eventually grind the outer groove off to get it out with the calper bracket as a unit.
3. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket to the hub. bottom one you'll need a wrench to get off or a very thin ratchet. It's on pretty good so you might need to put an iron pipe over your wrench to break it.
4. Now your caliper should come off with a little encouragement from a BFRH.
If you got ceramic pads be sure to follow the seating instructions!

 

TGK,

I am unable to access the lower bolt of the mounting clamp the abs bolts comes in between ..

 

Got ya. I'm guessing yours is a later set up. Mine has bolts there not those crappy ford torques screws. You simply can't fit a torque socket in there. Understand as that's why I said about using an open ended wrench to break the bolt. Obviously you can't.

So your abs screw is loose but just turns? Is that what your saying? If that is the case just drill the top out and then retap the hole a little bigger. The abs sensor itself on any car I've taken it off of is simply a bitch to get out. Use so wd or pb to lessen the rust in there and then when it is out clean it good with electrical cleaner. Oh and when you put it all back together use bolts there for the next time.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong BBjack, but from your illustration you're saying that the torx bit is spinning in the ABS securing screw.

If so you could drill it out making sure you use a smaller bit than the thread diameter. I often find that once you get near to the thread diameter the heat and vibration of drilling it loosens it enough to unscrew.

Alternatively you could try using some of the sockets designed to remove bolt heads made by Allen I think. I purchased a set in the States from Home Depot and they worked really well. May be iffy on this type of screw head though.

Normally I hit the screw head or heat it, but being so close to the ABS sensor I'd avoid doing so in this case.

Another option is to cut a slot in the head and use a heavy duty screwdriver with a spanner.

 

After changing the front brake rotors my car brakes have become soft they start holding only in the end ( when I have depressed the pedal more than half)

Did i miss some thing here

 

You need to bleed your brakes would be my guess. If you pump the pedal a few times does it get stiffer?

 

bbjack: Unless you cracked open the bleeder screw on the calipers, there should be no reason that any air entered the system. Is this problem you mentioned happening while you're driving, or sitting in the driveway?

 

if i pump it,it get harder; the brakes are holding good;I just replaced the rotors

 

If you pump the pedal and it engages higher, then you have air in the system and need to bleed all 4 corners of the car. Am I understanding you correctly, did you replace just the rotors and not the pads?

 

You are right i replaced the rotors not pads , I hit this issues where i was unable to remove the rear rotors because the abs bolt that went free and i haven't gotten to it .. yet ..i am just driving the car
not sure why the air got in i did not open any bake fluid line I just pushed back the brake piston using the c-clamp -thanks

 

then you probably don't have air in your system if you did not open up a bleeder.

Why did you not replace the pads? How old or worn are the pads you are using?

 

General rule is when you replace the discs you always replace the pads.

When you compressed the pistons with the C clamps did you do so slowly? There is a risk that compressing them quickly can reverse the seals in the master cylinder. This is why many garages now crack open the caliper's bleed screw when compressing the pistons.

Haven't experienced it myself so can't say what the symptoms are when this occurs.

 

the pads i just replaced they have 10 k miles and a fairly thick/new.not sure if you can push the brake quickly with C -clamp i was struggling with is since i had to hold the caliper down (on the new rotor) with one hand and withe the other I was tightening the clamp to push the cylinder back but you could be right I have taken the car to the dealership for the Jerking issues i have been having for some time now but they want help with after market ...stuff