UPDATED: 7th November 2013

You need to replace the following 5 cables:

1) From Alternator to Battery Positive
2) From Starter to Battery Positive
3) From Engine Bay Fusebox to Battery Positive
4) From Car Body to Battery Negative
5) From Engine Block to Battery Negative

Positive Battery Cables
1. Unscrew all the screws to access the air filter box.
2. Take out air filter. Undo the 2 screws holding the air filter box. Take out the bolts attaching the air filter box.
3. Where you undid the 2 screws push down that part of air filter box (towards front of car) with screw driver and lift out air filter box.
4. Cut all the wire straps and Take out the three bolts from the metal plate (it's like a metal plate where all wire are connected to to hold them in place).
4. Take out the starter wire terminal (located just behind the battery box) and take out the rubber surrounding (to be used on your new starter wire connection).
5. Now this is the tricky bit. Pushing the radiator pipe slightly back and pulling the rubber of the alternator output up use a very small ratchet with 12mm bit and somehow attatch it to the nut at the output terminal of alternator. Undo the nut and and take out the battery positive wire out from the hood.
6. Install the one gauge wire and wire it to the positive terminal of battery.
7. Get another one gauge wire and run it from starter to positive terminal of battery.
8. Take out the cover of the Engine Bay Fuse Box and take out the one nut holding it in place. Lift and unscrew the Main Wire leading to battery. Replace with one gauge wire.


Negative Battery Cables

1. Disconnect positive and negative terminals from battery.
2. Take out the battery hold down and remove battery.
3. Lift out battery tray (pull out the spillage pipe).
4. Take out the bolt that connect negative to battery cable to body of car.
5. Install the new 1 gauge battery cable.
6. You'll also find the engine block negative cable here as well. Undo the bolt (found directly under the battery tray) and replace the cable with 1 gauge.

Now you are ready to set up 2nd battery powerful amplifier etc.

Hope it helps. I'll see if I can take some pics and upload em. The alternator output connection is a bitch to get to. Either you need a really small 12mm spanner or a really small 1/4" hatchet.

Notes:
1. Make sure to Insulate the ends of all the connections properly to prevent the copper wire from corroding. Not insulating wires properly will mean not enough power will get to components and you could end up overworking your alternator which will lead to its demise.

 

Nice write. Up - thanks!!

"The alternator output connection is a bitch to get to. Either you need a really small 12mm spanner or a really small 1/4" hatchet."

Agreed!!! I am glad I am not the only one that had trouble with that bolt. It is almost impossible to find space to turn a. Wrench. My solution was a really long socket extension which was fed between radiator and engine and allowed me to turn the wrench somewhere approximately in line with throttle body. Not ideal but that worked eventualy.

The cable connection to the fuse box also took some working out if I remember right!!!

 

ye i don't know where the cable connection comes out of the fuse box. any help on that? also the engine block / engine compartment negative cable. for the mean while i have just left them connected to my new battery terminals but would be nice if could change these as well.

ok so updated thread