Old thread but in the same boat. Trying to remove a customers transfer case to access the oil pan, but confused on what you've found. The info I've found states you need to slide the sleeve back to disengage the transmission, and the hook tool you say works is the limiter so as not to damage the seal. Jag specify's tool number 100-012-03 to remove and reinstall this sleeve and to use a slide hammer? I tried to buy the tools but SPX is out of stock for at least 2 weeks,

Any help would be appreciated.

SPX Jaguar | Detail

 

Turbo,
Look at this picture carefully. There are 2 bolts that attach the TC to the Pan. Remove these only. DO NOT remove TC if at all possible.

 

Ok, well he has a rod knock, so more than likely, I'll be pulling the engine, seems like I can pull the trans and tc as one unit, that might be the way to do it.

Thanks.

 

Turbo,
Unless you are curious and have alot of time on your hands I humbly suggest that you purchase one of the "low mileage engines" with a warranty. There is little to none documentation on bearing clearance. There are many many small "gotcha's" in the R&R. I did spend well over $2500 on parts for my rebuild and I spent another $1000 on the TC. Then it is critical to get timing correct and the JITS method is a real mind thumper. If timing is wrong you have to remove engine once more and re-set it. It can be alot of time and aggravation. If you are lucky you do not have a spun bearing, just one that is worn. The VVT screens will collect alot of the pretty sparkles. Which means they are everywhere.

When you pull, there are only a couple of things to un-bolt. The steering knuckle in the interior, the struts on top, the exhaust to rear section, Drive shaft, the motor and tranny mounts and the 4 sub frame bolts. Of course this assumes that the radiator has already been removed and the electrical harness has been disconnected.
CAUTION!!!!!! USE PLEANTY OF RUSTEATER or LIQUID WRENCH and BE PATIENT and allow this stuff to penetrate those back bolts on the sub-frame. Better yet save yourself some real aggravation and peal back the interior carpet and pad and SPRAY the RUSTEATER in the slots that you will discover. This is where the "Nuts" are tac-welded on. It is very important to support the Transmission and engine while removing these bolts. The Engine mount and transmission mount were the last items I removed.

If you can get a shop to R&R you are better off. Good bids would be about $750 to $1250. This assumes that all they have do is install Engine/Tranny/Subframe and do not have to deal with wiring harness or radiator. You can re-install with exhaust, AC, Pwr Stearing Pump and all those other "engine attachments" along with the pullys and belt. You may want to leave off the intake manifold so you can re-wire the engine.

ALSO realize the sub-frame has an specification. The alignment tool alone cost me $500. You can screw up the sub-frame alignment and that will make front alignment very difficult. SCRIBE MARKS will help get you back to a close approximation.

Read up - look at ALL the pictures and then re-access job.

Good Luck

 

Thanks for the info. I am a shop, lol, trying to get my customer fixed up but of course, hitting the TC hurdle. I have all the info except the tool. I am bringing it in this week so I'll most likely just pull the trans and tc together.

If the engine is done, the customer found the 3.0L drops in so that could be an option.

 

i was wondering if anyone knew a good place to get a new transfer case other than the jaguar dealer. from what i have gathered there are no rebuilds or re-manufactured ones available
i found an 04 with 55K miles at a local salvage yard but they want 1300.00 for it. (seems pretty high)

 

$1,300 is not that far off for the '04 - '08 version of the TC, just slightly on the high side.

Take a look at prices on eBay, there is a price difference between VC and non-VC transfer cases.

 

just decided to bite the bullet and buy the new one from the jaguar dealership and have a friends shop install it. he quoted me 550$ in labor....does that sound about right to you guys?

 

A few months ago I had the transfer box replaced with a reconditioned one and now have a howl from it when driving on light throttle at just under 30 mph. My local garage have checked oil level and it needed a lot of topping up. There appears to be an oil leak at the rear of the box. Any ideas as to what needs replaced or repaired?

 

i dont know if it means anything on here but i work at a mechanics shop ( im the parts guy there ) and those two inner seals on the transfer case part number 1x4w7h490ba is available i have 30 of them on my shelf i sell them for 20.00 ea if you need them feel free to email me at kbayne@acsalaska.net

 

I had my cat replaced in my x-type 2002 and within the same week I noticed a severe leak. It was coming from the seal(?) that is in front of the front differential. When I brought it back to the shop, they did admit having to remove the drive shaft in order to get to replace the cat converter, but they told me that they didn't cause the leak. What could have happened?

 

The seals that are damaged when the intermediate right axle shaft is removed, are also available from rockauto. ( SkF 10181 ) for about $6 each

 

I took an inner seal out of a trashed transfer case. Here's the PN on it;

 

To install the seals the transfer case has to be disassembled, here's a thread on it;


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...er-case-93353/