Transfer case oil change, (and now leak)
#1
Transfer case oil change, (and now leak)
I've had my X-type for almost a month now, and have slowly been catching up on maintenance. The previous owner was bragging that he never had any trouble with it, and never had any service done outside of what was recomended in the owners manual maintenance schedule.
So I figured with 110.000 miles it could use some more tuning up.
Anyway This past weekend I finally got around to tackling the transfer case oil. I read quite a bit here on the methods tricks and tips.
I drained the fluid, and not much came out, maybe 100 ml at best.
When I refilled it, I added 500 mL on the understanding that 600mL is full capacity, and 200mL should be left after draining at the plug - needing 400mL added, and 100mL more because I am accident prone and would probably spill that much. I wasn't, and the full 500mL went in, and figuring 100mL overfull couldn't be too bad I left it.
Anyway, now there is oil dripping from the Right Hand side of the case, onto the exhaust and stinking the car up. It might be the seal, but it looks like it might be coming from above that. I found a picture showing the vent is right in this area, which brings me to my main question.
Does anyone know how overfull the T-case has to be to drip from the vent? I am thinking I'll just wait and see if it stops leaking shortly, then try to recheck the fluid level somehow...
On another note, I went a slightly different route with the drain valve. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer bushing with the points ground off to clear the case reinforcements. Then I used an oil drain valve like is installed on my lawn tractor.
http://www.milfordpower.com/OF125_43.../of125-237.htm
It's 3/8" NPT on one end, and takes 1/2" hose on the other end. A slight twist and pull opens the valve, then push close and twist vback to close and seal. I've had the one on my Briggs and Stratten mower engine for the last 8 years without a problem, So I assume it can handle the heat and vibration from the T-case just as easy.
Then, the hose down from the engine compartment, and a funnel as described elsewhere here.
The total cost as about $16, plus the fluid.
For the fluid I bought the Motocraft Synthetic 75W140 gear lube at the local Ford Dealer. It was $19 a Liter, but specifically said it meets the spec called out here.
So I figured with 110.000 miles it could use some more tuning up.
Anyway This past weekend I finally got around to tackling the transfer case oil. I read quite a bit here on the methods tricks and tips.
I drained the fluid, and not much came out, maybe 100 ml at best.
When I refilled it, I added 500 mL on the understanding that 600mL is full capacity, and 200mL should be left after draining at the plug - needing 400mL added, and 100mL more because I am accident prone and would probably spill that much. I wasn't, and the full 500mL went in, and figuring 100mL overfull couldn't be too bad I left it.
Anyway, now there is oil dripping from the Right Hand side of the case, onto the exhaust and stinking the car up. It might be the seal, but it looks like it might be coming from above that. I found a picture showing the vent is right in this area, which brings me to my main question.
Does anyone know how overfull the T-case has to be to drip from the vent? I am thinking I'll just wait and see if it stops leaking shortly, then try to recheck the fluid level somehow...
On another note, I went a slightly different route with the drain valve. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer bushing with the points ground off to clear the case reinforcements. Then I used an oil drain valve like is installed on my lawn tractor.
http://www.milfordpower.com/OF125_43.../of125-237.htm
It's 3/8" NPT on one end, and takes 1/2" hose on the other end. A slight twist and pull opens the valve, then push close and twist vback to close and seal. I've had the one on my Briggs and Stratten mower engine for the last 8 years without a problem, So I assume it can handle the heat and vibration from the T-case just as easy.
Then, the hose down from the engine compartment, and a funnel as described elsewhere here.
The total cost as about $16, plus the fluid.
For the fluid I bought the Motocraft Synthetic 75W140 gear lube at the local Ford Dealer. It was $19 a Liter, but specifically said it meets the spec called out here.
#2
IMO..You did good..the excess will eventually seek a happy level and stop dripping...I would change the Lube again in about a year..after that I wouldn't worry about it any more as long as you fill it up to proper level or more...I say don't worry about it, because it's been 110,000 miles since you touched it, you've used a quality Synthetic and what's the chances you'll put that many more miles on it again?..Your next project using the same type of lube, would be the Rear Differential ...Good luck..
#3
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Andy, yes, the vent valve is right in this area. LIke you mention, just let it leak out a little bit and call it good. I poured in a full 600 ml when I did my T-case fluid change. I got a little bit of drippage, but nothing that I worried about. It stopped shortly thereafter.
How long it will drip is probably a function of how fast you like the drive. THe faster you drive, the more the fluid will get churned up, the more fluid that can leak out. Stick around 70 mph and all should be good after a week or so. Keep an eye on it just in case it does last a lot longer. But, remember, with this lube, a single drop will spread out and look like a lot on the ground.
How long it will drip is probably a function of how fast you like the drive. THe faster you drive, the more the fluid will get churned up, the more fluid that can leak out. Stick around 70 mph and all should be good after a week or so. Keep an eye on it just in case it does last a lot longer. But, remember, with this lube, a single drop will spread out and look like a lot on the ground.
#4
Thanks for the info. I feel a bit better now than I did when I first saw all of the oil. There is enough there than the whole side of the T-case down to the first cooling fin at the bottom is wet, and abbout a 18" section of the exhaust is wet from the oil as well.
One other thing I forgot to mention that I thought was odd. The black thing that looks like the seal on the right side of the transfer case...I noticed that when I turned the right front wheel that the seal is stuck to the half shaft and turns with it, rather than being fixed to the transfer case and the shaft rotating inside of it. I thought that was really odd, and was worried that the seal was so worn out that it simply came loose out of the case.
I've never seena seal liek that before, usually they are pressed into the case or whatever and the shaft slides inside the seal. Since most of the oil was in that area I was worried.
Anyway, I have about 100 miles on it now since the fill up, and the burning oil smell has started to subside a bit. Gear lube smells bad enough without it buring too.
One other thing I forgot to mention that I thought was odd. The black thing that looks like the seal on the right side of the transfer case...I noticed that when I turned the right front wheel that the seal is stuck to the half shaft and turns with it, rather than being fixed to the transfer case and the shaft rotating inside of it. I thought that was really odd, and was worried that the seal was so worn out that it simply came loose out of the case.
I've never seena seal liek that before, usually they are pressed into the case or whatever and the shaft slides inside the seal. Since most of the oil was in that area I was worried.
Anyway, I have about 100 miles on it now since the fill up, and the burning oil smell has started to subside a bit. Gear lube smells bad enough without it buring too.
#5
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